Questions on Two Old Leather Tools

[Artificer]

Brown Bear’s thread got me to thinking about a couple of the old leather tools I own. I REALLY like using old tools that were once used by others before me. I hope someone after me will enjoy using my tools the same way.

The first is a sewing awl handle that has an adjustable head for inserting various sized awls. I actually have two of these as the second one I purchased came with over two dozen various shaped removable awls. Even though I have large hands, these handles are rather too round and large and have a sort of donut shaped leather washer on the ends. I could not find a link to the ones like I have, though the following is close. (Mine are older and more straight round all the way back, though.) http://www.alanrichardtextiles.com/store/OSB-143.html

What I would like to do is get a handle that is more comfortably shaped and wondered if anyone knows if one of these would work with the older awl blades that have tapered square ends? http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=234

The second tool I hope to get information on is a pistol grip shape Draw Gage or Strap Cutter. (I got a little excited and accumulated two of these when I found them at good prices.) The closest one I could find in a link is this one; http://www.csosborne.com/no51.5.htm

I purchased these after trying an all wood strap cutter and found it to be almost useless. My question is besides ensuring there is a sharp blade in the tool, is there a way to get the most accurate method to cut uniform width straps or belts out of leather with these tools? The quickest and most accurate width cutting of straps or belts I ever saw was by a professional leather worker who used a LONG straight edge and round knife. Am I expecting too much of a Draw Gage to make similar uniform width belts and straps?

Gus

 

[hawkthrower]

Gus, I worked for a boot maker back in my misspent youth out in New Mexico. He used both the round knife and the strap cutter like you described and he always said that practice was the only answer to using either one. But, he also had a way of holding the strap cutter and the leather he was cutting a certain way that I never managed to get right twice in a row.
Ron

 

[Artificer]

Thanks Ron,

I have only been able to work with professional leather workers a couple of times and only for a few hours at most each time.

I keep going back to a straight edge and a utility knife to cut my straps so they are of uniform width, as I have not had much success with a draw gage.

Gus

 

[hawkthrower]

I do pretty good with 5 oz and up but the thinner stuff is a bear to keep even. It's a combination of drawing the knife straight and holding just the right amount of side pressure on the leather as you pull the cutter. Anyhow like you I usually resort to the straight edge and knife.
Ron

 

[Artificer]

Ron,

It seems you may have hit on something here. I've had the worst luck with thinner leathers, though I've not had good repeatable results with 5-7 oz. either. Thanks.

Gus

 

[Short Arm]

I use a round knife and a straight edge to cut my straps.Never felt at ease with a strap cutter.I suck at cutting thing out

 

[Artificer]

Thank you for posting that. Between Ron and you, I don't feel quite as much the dunce as before.

Gus

 

[LaBonte]

Gus that's a peg awl haft and the leather washer is there to prevent the handle from cracking when hammered while setting wooden pegs in the arch. Osborne and others make had held awl hafts with the locking head in various styles. Like Brown Bear suggests I grind a flat on one side of all my tool handles to prevent rolling when set down.

Draw gauges take lots of practice as noted and work best in weights above 4/5 oz albeit I make lots of straps from 3/4 oz using a gauge. I've used the various types and actually, especially for thinner leathers find that the wooden ones with the top piece to help hold the strap in place helps immensely. With any type you need to make sure all parts are clamped tightly or you will get slippage. In fact I have a few of them set up for the most common widths I use - then the only thing that gets moved is the upper arm for thickness and putting in a new blade.
With the metal type you have you need to place your thumb snugly on the strap as you pull through. For extra long straps (anything over about 4' in length) I start it then clamp that started end to the bench and walk backwards as I cut the strap. More control than pulling the strap through the cutter. Best advice - Get some cheap scrap leather and practice, practice, practice......

A hint: I use a straight edge and a knife to make the first cut and then cut maybe 4-5 straps, before redoing the edge to even it with knife and straight edge. For a long straight edge I use a piece of 1" x 1/4" x 8' galvanized metal strip from the hardware store. When cutting the leather I dampen the face and lay the straight edge on the damp leather - the damp leather tends to grip the straight edge and prevents slipping.

 

[Artificer]

Chuck,

I was hoping you might answer this thread and I REALLY appreciate it. Also I hope you are feeling better and you are in my prayers for your treatment.

I thought it might take a true Leather Professional to tell me what the Peg Awl Haft was. Gosh, I am glad I asked as I’ve been fighting that for years thinking it was a regular Awl Haft, as it came with so many sizes and shapes of replacement Awls. Great point Brown Bear and you made about grinding a flat spot on the awl haft.

I also appreciate the tips on using the Draw Gage and the metal strip for cutting leather with a knife. The 8’ length of metal strip will come in DARN handy. My 4’ aluminum ruler is not long enough for cutting many strips of leather, but I should have thought about using something like that.

I will copy/paste your reply and put it in a special folder that I have been keeping on leatherworking articles, hints and tips you have so generously provided over the years. I consider them more valuable than gold. I also print out copies and put them in my almost three decades worn copy of The Art of Hand Sewing Leather by Al Stohlman.

Thanks again ever so much,
Gus

 

[rijerolmon]

Excellant information (as usual. Two things that my Dad taught me about a draw knife. Angle the blade "back" slightly, this will make the cutting edge contact the grain face first and help in stopping the "ride up" that often occurs. When you think that the blade is sharp enough, strop it some more, you cannot oversharpen.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I've had the worst luck with thinner leathers

Get some big sissors. Old tailor shears are the best. Check local antique shops.

 

[T.C.Albert]

Although its considered traditional taboo to use shears on leather, I find them very handy. Fiskars softtouch are my choice...the kind with the big knuckle bow on bottom....I use an old "Stanley" carpenters style sliding beam marking gauge to mark the width of the strip, then cut it by "pushing" the Fiskars through the leather along the line...when sharp you don't need to cut cut cut like you usually see scissors being used, one smooth push will sever the strip from one end of the hide to the other as you force the shears forward...just slowly start your cut as normal then as push the shears forward you will find a sweet spot, usually near the back 1/3 of the blades, hold it there and push them forward as they just slice through the leather.....no cut cut cut squeezing on the handles needed...keep the leather taut, pull back on the strip as you go keeping it away from the bulk of the hide...beware, it is easy to drift off of your mark, but like the other methods mentioned, practice will make it easier...
I cut up to 5~6 oz. vegtan strapping this way until the shears get dull...otherwise, for me a straight edge and razor sharp knife are the best option too. Though I have several in the tool bag, old time draw gauges are canted for right handed workers and as a lefty I cant make them work for me at all...when I have seen them used by those that can use them, the hide was laid out on a bench with the strip to be cut portion hanging over the edge...then the gauge was pulled with one hand and the cut strip kept taut with the other as the worker walked backwards along the bench...a precisely gauged strip was cut off end to end along the spine edge of a full half hide faster than I can tell about it...Im still jealous.
tc

 

[BrownBear]

...old time draw gauges are canted for right handed workers and as a lefty I cant make them work for me at all....

Aha! No wonder I couldn't make the darned things work. I'm so left-handed I sometimes wonder why I was ever given a right arm.

 

[thecapgunkid]

Gus,

Your first example is a pegging awl. It only has one use, and that is to peg shoe soles and heels. If you try to stitch with it your hand will slip a lot. Also, the pegging blades are notorious for getting stuck in the holes you make because the chuck won't grab well if you pull against it. I always rotated the awl before pulling it out of the hole once I hammered it in.

The second example is a stitching awl that took hold in the nineteenth century. That's the one that matters when you want to use different blades because the factory standard was to make the blades bases so they'd fit those awls.

The best way to measure it is to hold it in your palm and wrap your ring finger around the throat below the knob. If your index finger/thumb tips are either on the back of the chuck of just aft of it on the wood you will get the feel of it and learn to work well with it. Do enough leather work and you will end up having a personal awl handle turned to your specs and dimensions. This is a tactile thing.

I never liked the pistol grip strap cutter as shown in your pic and always work with the Retail, Tandy wooden one. It manages the blade better and does not require as much exerted control, but it just won't do at all on soft leather. HOWEVER....the most important key to working with a strap cutter is not to trust the blade to stay sharp between cuts. On the bad boy you have in the picture you can hone the blade all you want.

I've always made the first cut on my strap target leather with a metal ruler that is cork backed so it won't slip and then my clicking knife or even my moon knife guided by the ruler. care and practice will keep the cut straight and the blade from dulling, but you gotta sharpen knives all the time when working with leather anyway.

Again, this is all tactile stuff, so I'm sorry if this all falls short or I am not telling you anything new.

 

[Artificer]

Excellant information (as usual. Two things that my Dad taught me about a draw knife. Angle the blade "back" slightly, this will make the cutting edge contact the grain face first and help in stopping the "ride up" that often occurs. When you think that the blade is sharp enough, strop it some more, you cannot oversharpen.

Now that is an interesting tip I never heard before. I can see how the blade beginning to cut the grain side first would make a nicer cut. Thank you.

Gus
Gus

 

[Artificer]

I've had the worst luck with thinner leathers

Get some big sissors. Old tailor shears are the best. Check local antique shops.

Thanks for the recommendation. I bought a pair of shears in the late 70's that a guy was selling at a gun show. He demonstrated cutting dimes with it. I have been surprised how well they have worked on soft leather and especially for cutting fringe and babiche.

Gus

 

[Artificer]

Sounds like a neat tip on holding the shears to cut thin leather strips. Also appreciated the recommendation of the shears you like best. Thank you.

Gus

 

[Artificer]

The best way to measure it is to hold it in your palm and wrap your ring finger around the throat below the knob. If your index finger/thumb tips are either on the back of the chuck of just aft of it on the wood you will get the feel of it and learn to work well with it. Do enough leather work and you will end up having a personal awl handle turned to your specs and dimensions. This is a tactile thing.

Greg,

Thanks for this tip on selecting an Awl Handle to match your hand. This is another real gem of info I think a lot of we amateur leather workers were never taught and is just the sort of thing that will benefit us all. I have awls with both wood and antler handles I've made and I do know that I sort of gravitate to some of them and maybe or probably for this reason. Neat Info!!

I am surprised that both you and Chuck use the Tandy Wood Draw Knives. OK, well looks like it may be time to revisit using the one I have.

Thanks a whole bunch!

Gus