Ramrod obstructed

[chipper]

I'm building a rifle and just realized that the ramrod hole is partialy blocked by the forward lock screw and the edge of the lock itself. This makes for an interesting problem. Has anyone dealt with this before? Do I simply cut the ramrod shorter?

Regards

 

[Roy]

No do not shorten the ramrod. Depends on how much of the screw is blocking the ramrod, you can either notch the screw or taper the ramrod or both.

 

[hollandbriscoe]

Whatever you do don't shorten the ram rod. The usual way to handle this is to file a clearnce grove in the lock bolt. Make a mark on the sideplate to align your screw with and never take out your lock bolt with out first removing the ram rod.

Jack

 

[John Vaccaro]

I'm building a rifle and just realized that the ramrod hole is partialy blocked by the forward lock screw and the edge of the lock itself."
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I just finished cutting through the bottom of the barrel channel and cutting the RR hole deeper. I fitted a piece of maple into the open barrel chanel and refitted the barrel. A real pain but it came out well. The original hole broke into the barrel chanel at the breach. The front screw blocked half the hole.If you are able, notching the screw and tappering the RR is a good fix. John

 

[CrackStock]

As has already been stated, you can try to file a groove in the bolt to permit the rod to pass it, but this depends upon how much of the bolt blocks the passage of the rod.

On the other hand, many people simply secure the lock plate with one screw and use a very short screw in the front of the side plate for cosmetic purposes. If the lock is properly inlet and seats well against the barrel, this is a reasonable answer.

CS

 

[chipper]

I've notched down the lock screw. I took it 1/2 way down. The ramrod squeezes by but now the ramrod hits the front edge of the lock. It's not an option to grind on that part of the lock. I figure If I cut the ram rod down now, it will be flush with the end of the bore with the gun unloaded. If worst comes to worst I'll use a brass ramrod extender.

Thanks for your help...
Regards
Wounded Knee

 

[LRB]

Maybe I am not thinking clear. How can the rod hit the front edge, or any other part of your lock??? Are you sure that it is not hitting the tab of your trigger guard?

 

[aragorn]

The same thing happened to me and I thought I'd completely screwed up, then I did exactly what everyone else above says. Because I only needed to file away about one third of the width of the bolt, I filed the notch all the way around so I wouldn't have to worry about having to refile it if the alignment of the bolt changed - if I ended up having it tighter or looser. It leaves the bolt looking like you could snap it but actually still leaves plenty enough strength in the metal for the front bolt. Good luck!

 

[longfowler]

that is exactly what I did to fix one musket I built, and it works great. the forward lock bolt is simply there for looks,it's cut off & epoxied into place. no one can tell!

 

[chipper]

Maybe I am not thinking clear. How can the rod hit the front edge, or any other part of your lock??? Are you sure that it is not hitting the tab of your trigger guard?

No, it's hitting the lock. There's a small protrusion into the ramrod shaft via the front of the lock.

Regards

 

[dlemaster]

Loyd
Did your ramrod hole drift toward the lock when you drilled it? If the ramrod is hitting the front of the lock even if you tapered the rod it will only go far enough back to hit the front of the main spring, if I have visualized what your saying correctly.
It sounds like you may need to remove the barrel and recut the ramrod hole on the center line and to the correct depth from the bottom of the barrel channel. You can then make a thin wood patch to the bottom of the channel if you so desire.

Regards, Dave

 

[mikelange]

Or is the front of the mainspring in the ramrod hole? The hole would still need to be re-directed, but not as radically.

 

[LRB]

If you are striking the mainspring, this can be dealt with as described above. If you are acually hitting the edge of the lock plate, you are in big trouble. You will have a lot of space to fill somehow when you shape your lock molding. It can be done, but would require much thought as to the best way to pull it off. If such is the case, start thinking dark stain. Really dark stain. I would suggest cutting away a sizable section of your stock from the mold area, and fitting another piece of similar wood into it, and go from there after you have re-routed the rod channel. Then dark stain.

 

[CrackStock]

You could just mill the ramrod channel out through the barrel channel and then glass bed to strengthen all the places that were weakened by all of this work.

Not period correct, but would solve the problems.

CS