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Range Test on my First Flinter

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Dean2

45 Cal.
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
733
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Well, today was my first day shooting a flintlock. Took my new gun out for the first time and put about 50 rounds through it. I have posted pictures of this gun under the thread “Opinions on this Flintlock.
First off let me say thanks for all the great posts put up be members of this forum. After all the reading I had no problems loading it up and making it go bang right off the bat. I also tried knapping the flint and a few other things I learned reading this forum. Thanks to all of you.
Per the other thread, well Spencer, whatever lock it is, it seems to go bang pretty good. Had it out today for the first time and am very happy with the ignition results.
I started with 20 grains of 3F powder as prime and main, with a .310 Hornady swaged ball, .015 Butch’s standard centerfire cleaning patches with only spit for lube. Fired the first 6 with 20 grains, the next ten with 25, 5 with 30 and the rest with 35. Point of impact moved up with each increase in load but stayed slightly right of the bull.
First thing I noticed is that at the lower loads the patches looked fine. Once I got to 30 grains and above there were larger and larger holes in the patches. Other thing I found is that loading the ball was never a problem but as I shot the gun developed a hard carbon ring right near the bottom of the barrel. Tried using the scraper to remove it, was a lot of work and only worked to a certain extent. What I found when I was cleaning up just before leaving is that a real wet patch or two on the cleaning jag pushes right through this ring no problem. Learning for next time, get ring, wet a patch and clean it out, no problemo.
Next thing I learned is the first flint, 7/8” square, shot well for the first 25 or so rounds. After the first failure to fire, I knapped the flint and we were back to good. This flint was fairly thin and I found that every 4 or 5 shots I had to retighten the cock screw. This flint was also a hair too long as the frizzen didn’t completely close on half cock till after I had knapped it a bit. After the second failure to fire I put in a 5/8” by slightly longer than 5/8” flint that was thicker. The jaws got a much better purchase on this one and I never need to tighten the cock screw again. I also installed this one with the bevel facing down towards the frizzen whereas the first one was facing up. Don’t know if this makes a difference but the flint seemed to be the right distance from the frizzen on half cock when mounted this way.
This seems to be a good lock. I was intentionally trying different combinations of location and amount of primer in the pan. Unless I got real scotch with the amount of primer, ignition was almost instant, no matter where in the pan I put the prime, or whether the flash hole was covered or not.
It has been a VERY long time since these 55 year old eyes have shot anything that wasn’t scoped or aperture sighted. I was very surprised that the old timmy v-notch and bladed front sights seemed to work pretty good for me. Out of the 50 shots, most of the groups looked similar to this, just at different points on the target. I don’t intend to do anything with the sights till I land on a load I am happy with.
All rounds were shot benched and the picture is the last of the 50 rounds. The groups had opened up some by this time, many of the earlier ones had at least two touching, but in overall size not a whole bunch larger. The coin in picture is exactly an inch, and it will JUST cover the three holes, so no screaming hell at 50 yards. I don’t really know what these type of guns are supposed to be capable of at 50 yards but this definitely isn’t in the class of the other guns I shoot, so I would like any tips available on how to tighten these up some. Is the hole in the patches part of the issue with the group sizes. Thanks for all your help so far and all the good info to come.

flinlock32cal2005021518.jpg
 
Sounds like your reading / comprehension skills are top notch given the overall successful description of your first range trip with a Flintlock, congratulations !
:hatsoff:
From your description of how the patches started to fail from what sounds like burn-through with larger powder charges, odds are you'll either need more lube in the existing patch and/or a thicker patch.

Plus a different or more lube might also help minimize / eliminate that fouling ring you mentioned...but if not, wiping the bore with a damp (not wet) cleaning patch after every shot should at least prevent it from building up.

And going to a thicker lubed patch to fix what sounds like a hole being burned through might tighten the group up for you some more just by itself.

Good work with your new Flintlock...
 
RB

I think I agree that I need a different patch material. It didn't look so much like burn through as the patch started to shred away from the ball at the higher loads. These are a pretty loose weave standard Butch's 1 1/8" square, rifle cleaning patchs that I buy for cleaning my centerfire rifles. I read on here a lot of guys use pillow ticking so I showed the Butch's patches to my wife and she says pillow ticking is a much tighter weave material. I am going to see if I can find some at the fabric store.

As to the carbon ring, would using Hoppes Black Powder solvent as lube help, rather than the simple spit patch I was doing, or is there another lube you think would work better to avoid that. Thanks.
 
There are a number of lube options of course.
Speaking for myself, all I've ever used is Natural Lube 1000 and Hoppe's PLUS BP Solvent & Patch Lube...never had the ring buildup problem you described.

I buy precut patches made by Oxyoke that are prelubed with NL1000 and use them as is for most of the year...then on a day like today's range session where the humidity was down to 24%, I put 40 patches in a small ziploc, squeeze a few squirts of Hoppes PLUS into the bag to get them all glistening wet...then just shoot the range session, no wiping between shots needed, etc.
 
Dean2,

Congratulations on your first flintlock session and the excellent description.

For years I used T/C commercial patches prelubed with their Natural 1000 stuff. Being economical (read :cheap) I now buy 100% cotton cloth from the fabric store, measured with a micrometer, keeping .015 and .020 thick material on hand. I pre-cut a bunch of them, put them in a baggie, pour in some Hoppes 9 Plus BP lube and make sure they are pretty saturated. I rarely, if ever, have to swab between shots, no burn holes in the patches, and clean up is easy. I credit the tight weave and Hoppes 9 Plus for the good results.

Jeff
 
On this board, like so many other topics, patch lube is all most a sacred cow. I have been down the tested this and that road so much I really don't even argue with those folks any more. There isn't a tinker's darn difference, or improvement in any of them. They all work. So the next question is which is the easiest or cheapest to use. Just plain olive oil is certainly easy and cheap. I prefer Bore Butter/NL 1000 because it is easy and Miss Elizabeth approves of it over the otherwise “smelly” hobby I have chosen to do.
What does effect patch lube is the amount. I like them slightly wetter, more than dryer. I never swab between shots and clean up is easy, too.
 
You need a bigger ball. That will fix the burn't
patches. .310 is way way undersize. .315-.319 will
be just fine. I shoot "0" Buck in all my 32's.
It measures .320-.323. I have five 32 pistols
and one rifle that I shoot them in. No problem
 
Typicaly one will go to a smaller ball and or a thicker patch of different luibe if burnt patches are a problem and one need determine if they are. just because a patch is burned does not automaticaly become a problem. One can find the right combo that groups very well and still have some burnt patches, burnt patches can be an indicator of a need for change in patch but does not always mean this.I have had/seen groups that touch and the pathces were what many would consider bad enough to try and fix but the groups suggest that all was well and changes in the components did not improve the groups, just something to think about.
 
Got reading some of the other main forums on here. Found one called Shooting Accessories and it had a whole bunch of threads on lubes, patches etc. All I can say is holly poop. Thats as bad as talking politics or religion. That makes the second thing I promise never to talk about on this foirum again, lube and how to clean the gun.
Thanks for the heads up, I will find something cheap, available and as mess free as possible and try different stuff till I find something I like.

To the other guys who responded on patch thichness ball size, good advice and thanks. I will try a couple of different combos using the .310 balls as I have lots of them for now, if I can get it to shoot how I wnat, will stick with that. If not will try upsizing the ball diameter till I get to a good combo. Very similar process to developing cast bullet loads for my rifles so will just apply the same logicall processes. This is turning out to be quite a lot simpler than I was lead to believe.

Sort of like all the stories I had heard about fly fishing. Scares lots of guys off, but once you try it, you find out it really isn't all that hard to pick up. Becoming a master at it is a whole different thing, but doing it good enough to have fun is actually pretty easy.

I am really enjoying this Flintlock and thanks again for all your help.
 
Dean if I got this right you are using comm. center fire cleaning patches. Get rid of them and go to the fabric store and get the thicker pillow ticking. It has got to help, your wife is right about the fabric weave being much tighter. It holds lub better and should not burn through like the center fire patches do. Your on the right track just have fun getting there. With the groups you are getting now they should go down to well under and inch at your range when you get the combination worked out.
Fox
 
Well, took the gun out for its second trip yesterday. Changed patch material to tightly woven ticking and it definitely made a big improvement. Also adjusted the front sights to move point of impact to the left 4 inches. Got it dead on first adjustment. Got to like getting that lucky.

.310 Hornady soft lead swaged ball, 25 grains of Goex 3F and a .018 patch puts them all dead in the bull, all 5 shots under an inch at 50 yards, with three clover leafed.

A .312 slightly harder cast ball, 25 grains of 3F and a .015 patch shoots to the same spot and groups just as well.

A .310 ball and only 20 grains of 3F with the .018 patch did not group as well and hit about 2.5" inches low.

I tried shooting at 25 yards but I think it was too close for load development as I could not tell the good loads from the bad ones. It didn't really show differences in patch thickness, powser charge etc till I got to 50 yards. The good news is that for typical squirrel, grouse and rabbit ranges, this gun puts them all pretty much into one hole, dead on point of aim.

Was quite wet out so only recovered a few patches but they looked real good and showed no signs of shredding or burn through.

Haven't been able to find any Hoppes BP solvent and lube yet so was still using spit patches and was still getting a carbon ring ahead of the powder load. When it showed up after 6 or 8 rounds, one very wet patch followed by a couple of drying patches cleaned it right up. I am hoping the Hoppes as lube will cure that completely.

Thanks guys for all the info. It helped a bunch. Now that I have the load worked out and I am very happy with the way this Douglas barrel is shooting, I am going to start practicing my off hand shooting.
 
Don't think you will get much of a change in that ring by changing lube. It is the ash that initially accumulates behind the tail edge of the patch/ball. The patch lube has no contact there. Gonna have to swab the barrel between shots to remove it (if you feel it necessary). When loading the next round, the powder will fall below the ring, and the ball/patch will rest at the same spot as the last one. Performance will be relatively unchanged shot to shot. Granted, prolonged shooting may lengthen the ring, but swab it out now and then at the range and keep on going.
 
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