I am going to experiment with that JB Weld
and compare it to Stay-Brite and 60/40 which I have both on hand.when I have the spare time
and compare it to Stay-Brite and 60/40 which I have both on hand.when I have the spare time
MSW said:just by way of 'dumb questions,' does the thickness of a hacksaw blade substantially change the geometry of the frizzen/**** pivot point?
Wick Ellerbe said:No. Not to a measurable degree, if we are talking a common hacksaw blade. I would rather use Brownell's 1095 spring stock, if given a choice. I have been told that box banding is 1095, but I have never tried it for re-facing.
Commodore Swab said:Remember it takes 3 things for a fire oxygen, heat, and fuel.
Carbon = fuel
Oxygen= air
Heat=friction
No matter how hard the frizzen if there is no carbon aka fuel you will not have fire aka spark
Wick Ellerbe said:No. Not to a measurable degree, if we are talking a common hacksaw blade. I would rather use Brownell's 1095 spring stock, if given a choice. I have been told that box banding is 1095, but I have never tried it for re-facing.
Yes. Low carbon steel must have carbon introduced into the surface for it to harden.Commodore Swab said:Are you implying that a steel with a low carbon content is incapable of being hardened without adding carbon? I was of the understanding that one of the aspects that made Kasenit good for frizzens was that it imparted carbon into the surface of the steel and then hardened the carbon steel surface.
Correct me if Im wrong but there are hardeners out there that will harden steels without imparting carbon into the surface. I believe this is the primary difference between cherry red and Kasenit.
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