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Re-facing a frizzen

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I am going to experiment with that JB Weld
when I have the spare time
and compare it to Stay-Brite and 60/40 which I have both on hand.
 
There is one way to find out :grin: :grin: :idunno: :v
 
Carl Walker of the old Green River Rifle Works showed me a flintlock that he half-soled maybe 30 years ago by superglueing a piece of saw blade on the frizzen. Still sparking good as ever.
 
just by way of 'dumb questions,' does the thickness of a hacksaw blade substantially change the geometry of the frizzen/**** pivot point?
 
MSW said:
just by way of 'dumb questions,' does the thickness of a hacksaw blade substantially change the geometry of the frizzen/**** pivot point?

I once had a frizzen saw blade soled. The 'smith who did the job thought it changed the geometry. So, he ground down the face to accomodate the blade thickness. Worked fine for years. Then I sold the rifle to a friend. He didn't like the sole being there so he removed it. Lock continued to spark just fine after that. Go figger. :confused:
 
No. Not to a measurable degree, if we are talking a common hacksaw blade. I would rather use Brownell's 1095 spring stock, if given a choice. I have been told that box banding is 1095, but I have never tried it for re-facing.
 
Wick Ellerbe said:
No. Not to a measurable degree, if we are talking a common hacksaw blade. I would rather use Brownell's 1095 spring stock, if given a choice. I have been told that box banding is 1095, but I have never tried it for re-facing.

(emphasis added)

I have heard the same, but, regrettably, we've started using the plastic stuff at the mill when we band skids of free sheet. I doubt it would spark very well.

:(
 
the steel box banding i have scrounged, when hardened but not tempered,when struck with a hammer, shatters like glass. it should be a good candidate for frizzen re-soling and as fletho mentioned, will be tempered by the soldering process is you do it correctly.
 
Remember it takes 3 things for a fire oxygen, heat, and fuel.

Carbon = fuel
Oxygen= air
Heat=friction

No matter how hard the frizzen if there is no carbon aka fuel you will not have fire aka spark
 
Commodore Swab said:
Remember it takes 3 things for a fire oxygen, heat, and fuel.

Carbon = fuel
Oxygen= air
Heat=friction

No matter how hard the frizzen if there is no carbon aka fuel you will not have fire aka spark

Not sure what you are getting at. If eggwelders test piece shattered as he describes, it is a very good indication that the steel has a high carbon content. Exactly how high may be in question, but very likely high enough.
 
Wick Ellerbe said:
No. Not to a measurable degree, if we are talking a common hacksaw blade. I would rather use Brownell's 1095 spring stock, if given a choice. I have been told that box banding is 1095, but I have never tried it for re-facing.

While not carved in stone, from personal experience I would say that it's possible, depending on the lock. I reconverted
an original 1816 lock back to flint. The replacement frizzen quit sparking after about 20 strikes and resisted hardening efforts
even when done by a pro. The half sole took care of that issue
but I have to pay close attention to the size of the flint and
how it's positioned, otherwise the lock is a flint basher. The standard method of positioning the flint close to the frizzen
face at half **** resulted in hitting it to high up, with poor sparks since it wasn't scraping the face.
 
Are you implying that a steel with a low carbon content is incapable of being hardened without adding carbon? I was of the understanding that one of the aspects that made Kasenit good for frizzens was that it imparted carbon into the surface of the steel and then hardened the carbon steel surface.

Correct me if Im wrong but there are hardeners out there that will harden steels without imparting carbon into the surface. I believe this is the primary difference between cherry red and Kasenit.
 
"Remember it takes 3 things for a fire oxygen, heat, and fuel.

Carbon = fuel
Oxygen= air
Heat=friction"

Nope, steel is the fuel. If the steel is too soft then the chips shaved off by the flint are too big to burn.
 
Commodore Swab said:
Are you implying that a steel with a low carbon content is incapable of being hardened without adding carbon? I was of the understanding that one of the aspects that made Kasenit good for frizzens was that it imparted carbon into the surface of the steel and then hardened the carbon steel surface.

Correct me if Im wrong but there are hardeners out there that will harden steels without imparting carbon into the surface. I believe this is the primary difference between cherry red and Kasenit.
Yes. Low carbon steel must have carbon introduced into the surface for it to harden.

Kasenit and Cherry Red both impart extra carbon into the steels surface.

Kasenit uses a ferrocyanide salt which is one of the main reasons several countries have banned it.

Cyanide is a mixture of carbon and nitrogen which explains where the carbon is coming from.

In truth, the cyanide is locked up in a harmless way that won't cause problems.
The pure cyanide is not released to the air as a gas or as a powder on the part although I wouldn't recommend eating it.
As is often the case, ignorance and fear is what led to countries banning it for public use.

Cherry Red does not use a cyanide salt in it.
Rather, it uses Chromium Oxide and Potasium Nitrate along with non toxic things.
These non toxic, secret things (The maker of Cherry Red refuses to tell anyone what they (it?) are) provide the carbon for the process.
 
There are steels out there that use other elements with carbon to impart hardness. Boron and nitrogen are a couple. H1 is considered a steel, but I don't know if it has any carbon. If you are talking PC then I do not believe I have read of any case hardening that did not increase the points of carbon.
Just checked Myodo H1 steel and it has 15 points of C.
 
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