Reconstructing a flintlock SXS

[RMillet]

Okay, I've thought it over and decided that instead of just restocking my CVA 12 ga. double, I'm going to convert to flint. So after the judicious application of heat, a large pair of vise grips (didn't have or know where to get the CVA plug tool) and a BIG hammer, I've managed to remove the plugs.
Now for the surprise. The plugs look to be a standard 3/4"x16 thread about a 1/2" long. Get this though, the barrel is threaded for at least an inch!:youcrazy: Now I know production guns are less than perfect but this is just plain dangerous. Looks like I'm either going to have to lop 1/2" or so off the breech or custom fabricate a plug to fill those threads. Any opinions on the better method? I'm leaning towards the former if only because Track sells a plug I can use. Unfortunately that brings the already short 28" barrels down to about 27 1/2. Less than optimal but I can live with it.

It's been quite a few years since I've been deep into gunsmithing, I'm getting excited about this project. True it'll never be the equal of Squire's Manton but by god I'll have a flint double yet!

Dick

 

Muskrat,
If it were me, I'ld make new plugs long enough to use whatever threads are there providing the 1/2" of thread that was previously exposed are not terribly corroded. I don't think the plugs from TOW are an option as it seems to me, in order to use them, they need to be fitted to the barrels before the barrels are joined. The chances of both plugs indexing properly in both barrels is somewhere around nil (maybe less). In other words, you shorten the barrels to bring one plug to bear and index properly and the other plug likely won't. If you don't have access to a lathe, you could still use the original plugs. There's two possibilities that I can think of right off. 1- you could shorten the barrels until the plugs bottom on the threads, then shorten barrels and plugs together until they index. Downside, you now have plugs screwed into possibly poor corroded threads. 2- make a sleeve that will screw into the barrels and fill the threaded portion that the plugs don't reach. kind of like a screw in choke. Of course that would require a lathe and if you have one, then just make new plugs. If you choose to use the existing plugs, plug the nipple holes with a set screw, then weld it in place on the inside and outside. Then redrill the powder chamber on the inside. There should be a depression where the nipples screwed into on the outside. weld this full and dress the plugs down to round. Now you will have plug blanks that can be stepped ala Manton or do whatever you want. Just a few thoughts hope this helps

cody

 

[RMillet]

Thanks Cody, that helps a lot. It'll cost me a case of beer or so but I believe I can get access to a lathe (and an operator who can pull something like this off). Hadn't really thought about the indexing, thanks for bringing it up. I've never built a double before so this should be interesting.

The threads are in pretty good shape, I didn't really use the gun all that much. Found out after I bought it that a percussion double isn't much more fun than than a modern double. If it doesn't have a rocklock I guess I'd just rather not bother.

Dick

 

I'm no expert and don't have much for experience either. I've built one but that doesn't put me very far from where you're at. The first order of business though is get Bill Brockways book "recreating the double barrel muzzleloading shotgun". IMHO, starting this project without the book is NOT an option. You know what......the only part of that CVA that you can use is the barrels, and if you are going to make new plugs anyway, put it back together, sell it, and put the money towards the locks. Plain steel 12g suppository barrels are a dime a dozen and a tap to tap the chambers is $20. The triggers, guard, butt plate etc are not difficult to make and stocking a sxs is too much work to incorporate incorrect peripherals. IMHO

Just a thought

 

[RMillet]

Point taken. I just ordered the book, seems I had the first edition way back when but 3 moves and a few kids later some things have turned up missing. I do think though that I'm going to try to incorporate these barrels in if for no other reason than to gain the experience. I think if I were to seek out new barrels I'd be looking for a set in 20 ga.

BTW, I saw the locks you used back on the double flinter thread. Where did they come from? I haven't seen any production locks like that anywhere.

Dick

 

BTW, I saw the locks you used back on the double flinter thread. Where did they come from? I haven't seen any production locks like that anywhere.

Well...they are L&R manton/ashmore locks. they were the only locks I could find that did not have integral frizzen bolster/pan/fence. Almost every original I've seen has had seperate frizzen bolster/pan/fence. However, the L&R locks looked clunky and a bit cheezy IMO. So, I cut the bolster/pan/fence off of the plate, lowered it about 1/8" and welded it back on to give it a more refined/correct profile. I also wanted the frizzen screw to go in from the outside as this was more the norm in the originals I've seen. I rebuilt the bolster with weld and reshaped to a more PC shape and changed the screw to the outside. The proper bolster shape required it to continue slightly below the bottom plane of the pan. The original configuration had the bottom of the bolster/pan/fence all even. I then had to extend the fence to balance the bolster. The frizzen spring that came with the locks has the wheel on it but was really cheezy so I trashed it. I tried to make springs that would be PC with the wheel on the spring but after many hours, decided it wasn't going to happen any time soon, so I robbed the springs from a pair of L&R bailes locks and used them. they needed to be opened up a bit and I put a wheel on the frizzen toe but they work very well. You can see in the pic that the weld didn't rust at the same rate as the parent material. I need to work out a fix for that yet. Oh ya, I reshaped the tail as well. if you look up the locks in TOW catalog, the mods I did become pretty apparent.

 

I agree with cody , if you can get use of a metal lathe turn new breeches , don