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Red maple vs Sugar maple stock

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I see very little when done......Dunlop stocks can tell you. Give the fellows a call.....my next build is red maple....sitting next to sugar maple.....I can't tell..... :hmm:
 
Hi,
First, a few numbers:
modulus of elasticity (measure of stiffness)
red maple - 1.64
sugar maple - 1.83

specific gravity (density and weight)
red maple - 0.54
sugar maple - 0.63

Janka scale (hardness)
red maple - 950
sugar maple - 1,450

Those are average values and show that generally, sugar (hard) maple is harder, stiffer, and denser than red maple. The operative word is "generally" because you can find hard, dense red maple blanks and soft sugar maple blanks. With respect to appearance, red maple often has more vivid curl and figure than sugar maple. My own experience seems to bear that out. Of course, you can find incredibly figured sugar maple and plain red. For a gunstock with a lot of curl but little carving, red maple is a pretty good choice. For a carved stock, sugar maple generally is better.

dave
 
As Dave has noted here Sugar is generally called hard and Red is soft.

I only build with Red for a couple of reasons.

1) curly maple occurs about 10X more often in Red than Sugar - so more common means lower cost

2) if Red maple is "SOFT" I sure don't want to work with any hard maple - in this case "soft" is simply a comparative - like in comparison to "hardened concrete" - soft maple is plenty hard enough for me

I have done some cabinet work with Sugar, Red and Silver maple and can't say, that once they are finished, I could tell any difference between the different sub-species.

If you have to go to the molecular level using a micro-scope to tell one from the other, then "by eye" you would probably would have to trust what the tag on the wood bin says.

(I believe I read somewhere that Dave Keck (or maybe it was Dunlop's) only sells Sugar Maple that he is positive is Sugar so in some cases you could get Sugar sold as Red by him because it's so difficult to tell the difference (hope my memory on this one is correct - if not, no malice intended)
 
I would say if Anyone.... could tell the difference, Wayne Dunlap could. Many times I have been with him & talked to him about maple & I have looked at thousands of blanks from him.. He is always sure of what one is what & marks them as such. It has been his business for many years & I am quite comfortable in his knowledge of it. He is the only stock dealer I ever dealt with that I felt I could just call & say "Wayne, send me three Grade #6 or 7 blanks with decent curl, I want them hard & I want curved grain thru the wrist with no runout.". And when they get here, they will be great & exactly as I asked for.

Of the other dozen or so I have dealt with in the past ? 35-40 yrs, I can't trust them that way. I think they hear "Send me" and the rest of the info. is on deaf ears.

I got so embarrassed last year.... :redface: A guy asked me to guide him thru a rifle build. So I help him pick all the parts & stock & etc. In detail I fill out the order form & he buys it & etc. Now bear in mind this is one of the Top Venders recommended on this site.... And I thought "Oh, no problem, this will be great & this will Work !"

He gets the parts set. First the stock is inlet for the wrong barrel. Calls them, sends it back.

Takes him over 4 weeks to get another stock from them. He gets 2nd stock & it has Severe grain runout on the wrist of this Tenn. stock. Calls them & sends it back.

Takes him 6 weeks to get this one replaced, I don't remember what was wrong with 3rd one for sure, but think it was wrong size RR hole for a smallbore or something. Calls them & sends it back.... :doh: I am thinking "Good Lord, can't Anyone there Read the dang order form ?"

No joke, took the guy well over 8 mo & shipped 3 dif. stocks back..., just to get a simple Tenn stock with the correct barrel inlet, correct RR hole, and good grain down thru the wrist... :redface: :surrender:

Then the owner of the company calls me & asks me why I am not recommending their stocks & their parts sets anymore ? :shocked2: What can I say ? And I told him 4 stocks & 8 mo to get ONE ORDER right ? that is absolutely incredible :doh: & ridiculous.... I embarrass myself enough, I don't need any help ! :rotf:

Keith Lisle

PS: Also, when looking at blanks to buy, I don't go by the fact it is Sugar or Red, I feel the hardness of it & feel the weight of the blank. I have felt some sugar that felt light as a feather & soft & pithy.... and have some red that is really hard & some really super gunstock material.
 
Gentleman one and all;
thanks for the quick info and advice. I am certain now I will use a red maple blank for my L/H LR, as it seems to fit what I am looking for. I had found Dunlap's website prior to posting, (in fact they are the only one I note with sugar maple), and will call them soon and get some wood sent my way.

On a different note...Your quick replies and pertinent information offered is why I joined this forum, and recommend it to others. I belong to a modern gun forum and I rarely visit or post there, because the majority of members there seen to always push, (shove) their opinion on you and will cram it down your throat if you don't agree with them. As a good friend says, "they are the kind of guys if you ask them what time it is they will tell you how to build a watch!"

Again, thanks.
I'm sure I will need more help as this project goes forward.

Eterry
 
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