Refinishing GPR Stock

[joe4702]

Hi folks,

Just wondering if anyone has done a stock refinish on a factory-built Lyman GPR (not a kit)? Would something as simple as hand-rubbed linseed oil work? Would I need to strip and/or sand first? I don't really have the time or skills to build a GPR from a kit, so thought it might work better to get a built gun and make improvements.

I'm about to order either a .54 GPR or a .54 Pedersoli RM Hawken in maple. I know the GPR stock won't be as nice as the Pedersoli, but if I could spruce the GPR up a bit, the $ savings would buy a lot of BP and round balls.

Thanks.

 

[necchi]

Lot's of folks will reshape/refinish a factory gun to their liking, happens all the time.

Would I need to strip and/or sand first?

That's pretty much the case, unless you just want to add an overcoat of a higher shine polyurathane.

so thought it might work better to get a built gun and make improvements.

Again sure, why not? But you might want to wait till you get it before you begin sanding anything off. Who knows? You might like it as it is.
:v

 

[BrownBear]

I'd just use a chemical stripper rather than sand, unless you're planning to reshape the stock a bit while you're at it. I've refinished both with TruOil (a boiled linseed product) and Tung Oil Finish from the hardware store. Frankly I prefer the results with tung oil, but that's not saying the TruOil isn't great too. It's just a question of taste.

With either, lots of very thin coats are better than a few thick ones. Just put a drop or two of the finish on the stock, then use the ball of your hand to spread it as far as it will go, then move on to the next area. Once the whole stock is covered, let it stand 24 hours in a warm place before you put on the next coat. Might take 6 or 8 coats that way, but the results will put a great big smile on your face. :grin:

 

[joe4702]

Thanks for the info. I have to mail order the GPR. Hope to get a nice stock, but if not, I'll take a shot at refinishing it. Just noticed the Gun Builders sub forum. Lots of info there as well.

 

[stinkyfeet]

The cheapest price on a gpr kit is 396 delivered to the door in 3 days by hinterland's will save ya 50-75 bucks over the most known companies. Best of luck.

 

[joe4702]

Pulled the trigger on a 54 GPR from Midsouth. Not a kit though. Right now I couldn't justify 2x the price for a Pedersoli. Guess I'm too practical. Maybe someday.

 

[George T.]

Mine has very nice wood as most that I have seen They seenm to be oil finished and it looks ans feels great. My guess is that they use boiled linseed. Geo. T.

 

[Crow Beads]

There's no need to remove the factory finish. I rubbed on two coats of Watco natural Danish oil with 400 and 600 on mine. This filled the grain. That was followed by two thin coats of Tru-Oil. If you want more gloss after that you can rub it out with rottenstone and baby oil. It looks like a different gun.

 

[spitdog]

I just refinished the stock on my Hawken with the help of member Ebiggs. I sanded it down,stained it and added Tung Oil.

 

[GaCop]

Hi folks,

Just wondering if anyone has done a stock refinish on a factory-built Lyman GPR (not a kit)? Would something as simple as hand-rubbed linseed oil work? Would I need to strip and/or sand first? I don't really have the time or skills to build a GPR from a kit, so thought it might work better to get a built gun and make improvements.

I'm about to order either a .54 GPR or a .54 Pedersoli RM Hawken in maple. I know the GPR stock won't be as nice as the Pedersoli, but if I could spruce the GPR up a bit, the $ savings would buy a lot of BP and round balls.

Thanks.

You can use linseed oil but the drying time is long if theres a lot of humidity and the finish will always be tacky in high humidity.

I would suggest tung oil, about 6 coats rubbed in would look really nice and you have the added benefit of being able to cover scratches when they occure. YMMV

Tom

 

[Bon Sauvage]

It looks nice. I am somewhat surprised. I have never had any luck using tung oil. Tung Oil Finish is a different story though and it has pretty much become my finish of choice.

 

[BrownBear]

...never had any luck using tung oil. Tung Oil Finish is a different story though....

That's an important distinction. Pure tung oil works about as well as unboiled linseed oil. :barf: But boiled linseed oil or a commercial product like TruOil is as different a story, as is tung oil finish. Both are great.

Between tung oil finish and TruOil, it's kind of Fords and Chevy's for me. And I happen to like the tung oil finish better, both for looks and durability.

 

[joe4702]

Thanks for all the tips. The GPR is on it's way. Once I see what the stock looks like, I can decide if I want to fool with it.

I definitely prefer something simple to apply that will be matte or satin sheen (I don't like shiny finishes) and easy to maintain.

The Danish oil sounds interesting, but I watched some videos and the process seems a bit involved.

TruOil or Tung Oil Finish is probably more my speed.

One thing I'm still a little unclear about - do I need to do anything first to the stock before applying the new oil? I beleive the GPR has an oil finish, not polyurethane (or some similar shiny hard finish) like my Lyman Trade Rifle sports.

 

[Billnpatti]

I'd say to follow Brown Bear's instructions. Be sure to go over your stock lightly with 0000 steel wool after each coat has dried to smooth out each previous coat before applying the next coat. Just knock off the shine. It will not only give you a satin smooth finish but it will give the next coat something to anchor to. Your stock will have a beautiful high luster finish and probably not exactly what you are looking for but then after about a month (it's got to completely cure) buy a product called "Stock Sheen" by Birchwood-Casey and go over your stock to give it the most eye popping soft luster you have ever seen. It has just enough luster to really look great but not so much that it looks modern. At that point, you will have a great finish but if it does not please your eye, just take your 0000 steel wool and buff it to as soft a finish as you like. When you get it the way you want it, go over it with a good paste wax. I have a can of Johnson's Paste Wax that I keep on hand just for my gunstocks. Just before putting them away after cleaning them, I apply a light coat of Johnson's Paste Wax to the stock. I also like Renaissance Wax. It is quite a bit more expensive but it lasts forever. Either one will protect your stock and keep it looking great.

 

[joe4702]

Excellent info. Thank you.

 

[spitdog]

I never used it either until 2 weeks ago, I think the key is you start with a sanded down stock , you put it on and let it set for 10 min. Then you wipe it down real good and let it set for 24hr.

Then I used 0000 steel to wipe it down. Then I reapplied the tung oil and repeated the process 3 times.

Never had a problem with it not drying.

If you have a stock with the pores filled with something else I can see where it may not dry. It needs to soak in to the wood.

 

[kingsax26]

Now before you say you cant finish a GPR kit i would strongly advise you to reconsider....if you can assemble a bookshelf then you csan build a kit...they are really quite easy! I recently finished mine and it was not hard at all....plus you get much better wood in the kits... also you ahve the satisfaction knowing that u built it yourself.... and if you need help t here are many peple here witht he experience to help you my freind. Heres a few pics of the nice wood they put in the kits . I ahve since aged the lock and trigger ass. since these pics were taken and the rifle looks great and shoots great

 

[joe4702]

Very nice. I've been thinking I should get a flintlock at some point (I'll have 4 caplocks once the GPR arrives). When I do, I'll consider a Lyman kit. I like that leather frizzen cover you have on there, too.

 

[GaCop]

It looks nice. I am somewhat surprised. I have never had any luck using tung oil. Tung Oil Finish is a different story though and it has pretty much become my finish of choice.

I should have specified "Tung Oil Finish", I've never used just tung oil, sorry.

Tom

 

[Sham66]

Here's one I did awhile back:
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/249710/post/893549/hl//fromsearch/1/

James