removing creep from chambers lock

[ffffg]

i have a chambers round faced lock and it has a fly.. what is the best way to remove a quite large creep?. if i file the excess metal off it will hit the fly further back? will this increase lock time? or cause problems? can i add a piece of metal to the back of the sear so it sits in the correct place.? or should i order a new part uncut and redo it? (i would have to have a gunsmith do any of this) it seems a lock of this quality should not be haveing this problem? i dont know.. it worked fine at first as when you pulled the trigger it would slide off the sear, finley honed.. as it ages, and has varying conditions, once in awhile it will drag over the long sear moving the trigger about 1/8 of an inch before it lets go.. you never know what its going to do.. thanks for any info, dave..

 

[BLAHMAN]

.. what is the best way to remove a quite large creep?. quote]


Tell 'em to git off yer front porch (if he's on the front porch!) :rotf:

 

[Dave K]

I would call Chambers. I think you will be happy you did. It is a good quality lock.

 

[LRB]

The easiest way, without interferring with other parts, is to go just behind the sear notch of the tumbler, leaving a gap of about .020, and soft solder a small piece of steel the width of the tumbler and about 1/16th square. This is a sear regulator. File the regulator down until you get the contact between the sear and notch that you find safe and suits your weight of pull requirements. Round off the backside of the regulator to be sure that the sear does not lock in at that point, but where it will ride over and lock in its tumbler notch. While you are at it, take about a third of thickness from the action leaf of the sear spring. When you solder, apply the heat from the back unside of the tumbler, the heat required to do this will not affect the temper of the tumbler, unless you get wild with the torch. If you have questions email me

 

[rich pierce]

That will work but requires skills. Once worked on, all warrantees are off. I'd call Jim.

 

[Mike Brooks]

That kind of creep is more often then not the result of the trigger being pinned too far ahead of the sear.
Wick has the best solution to the problem.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

I would call Jim Chambers and get his input before I did any metal work on it. May be a case of trigger pin (bar) to lock sear geometry is off a bit much.