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removing impossible breech plug

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I have a barrel off of a cheap gun (.50 CVA Bobcat) that I would like to use for something, but the plug was hopelessly stuck. Thought I'd try to find a replacement or make one, so I cut the tang off flat with the end of the barrel, center punched it and progressively drilled until I have a ~1/32-1/64 ring left. I took a small punch and bent one side in enough to expose threads and they look good. Any ideas on how to get out the rest without messing the threads up to bad? Not a big loss either way. (the powder drum came out OK)
 
There is no way to replace that "breech plug" on that barrel by someone in their hobby workshop.
By cutting the tang off, drilling and hammering you've already caused enough damage to make the barrel a hazard.
Use it as a tomato stake and mark it up to learning.

CVA1.jpg
 
The above is true. So your toast. Since you can't hurt it can you try
A) heating the barrel with a torch just enough to expand it a bit and pull the plug
B)cut the breech off drill and tap a new hole?
 
Most modern muzzleloader breechplugs seem to require a wrench and maybe a cheater-bar for removal. It is likely the fit was extremely snug on your plug (interference fit), but with the proper application of force, the plug would have likely come out without the need to drill. Some have mentioned using a pipe-wrench and a 3-foot pipe to remove plugs...
 
rj morrison said:
bobcat breech plug is made to be imposable to remove.
How is that possible? It went in so it must be able to come out (after removing the drum)...
 
Looking at the picture posted above I must ask, did you remove the drum from the side of the barrel before you tried to remove the breech plug?

You might notice, the drum "pins" the breech plug in place so it can not blow out or be rotated.

After removing the drum, the breech will still need a lot of force to break the threads loose so a real stout vise is needed.

While using the vise, do not locate the jaws near the rear of the barrel.
If you do, you will squeeze the barrel threads into the breech plug threads making it almost impossible to remove.
 
I'm wonderin' at this point if a bobcat barrel is even worth foolin' with. might make a good blanket gun.
 
colorado clyde said:
Simplest thing to do now is remove several inches and re-breach it.
If the threads are undamaged, why remove any length? A breechplug with the proper threads could be ordered...
 
Black Hand said:
rj morrison said:
bobcat breech plug is made to be imposable to remove.
How is that possible? It went in so it must be able to come out (after removing the drum)...

They will come out but it is extremely difficult, much much more difficult than any standard custom barrel and many factory made guns.
These barrels were assembled by automated machine. A machine spins the breech and then the drum onto the barrel. The way I understand it the tolerances are all preset to the machine and the torque is very high.
The bottom line is they were designed not to be fooled with.
But.....it has been done in the home shop.

For the OP cut all that off and re-breech properly if you use that barrel.
 
Black Hand said:
colorado clyde said:
Who sells CVA breechplugs?
I've no idea, but one should be able to find a breechplug with the proper TPI.


Blackhand,
That's all fine and dandy, but the issue is that the CVA breechplug was built with a patent breech. Therefore, you will have a hole in the side flat of the barrel for the drum that runs into the breech plug. You will then have to drill a patent breech into the new plug and also into the side of the new plug to reach the patent breech. You will also have to thread that new hole exactly to match the existing threads in the barrel. The existing drum is not in front of the breech plug face, as with most others.
That is why everyone is suggesting shortening the barrel and re-drilling/tapping for a new breech plug.
Unfortunately, the CVA breech plug and patent breech is just not one that can be modified by most hobby gunsmiths.

cheers,
Chowmi
 
I had assumed it was the bad corrosion that had been left in the barrel when I bought it at auction that made it so difficult, nonetheless I tried cheater bar, heat, heat and cheater, then heat, cheater and profanity. The bolster gave it up, but not the plug. I hadn't thought ahead far enough for the patent breech issue if fashioning a new one. Looks like a stubbier barrel is in order for an already stubby barrel. Already too short for a tomato state conversion.
 
I would cut off enough of the breech to get rid of any trace of the original plug, then rethread the barrel, and make a new patent style breech long enough that the barrel would not have to be set back in the stock.
 
I'm with tengun when he says "cut the breech off drill and tap a new hole" I disagree with necchi about it being nothing more than a tomato stake. (sorry necchi :grin: ) It can be salvaged by simply having a gunsmith cut off the breach and re-tapping it for a new breach plug. You will have to carefully select the replacement breach plug so that everything will line up with the lock again. Either that or get a new stock and fit the modified barrel to it.
 
The barrel shouldn't be ruined by what the poster describes, though it does need to be re-breeched. I have done this with a few CVA's, cut off ahead of the old breech, and re-thread. It helps to have a good metal lathe for this however.
 
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