Renegade Flinter Disassembly

[jimbo15563]

I want to clean the lock and trigger mechanisms in my Renegade flinter. I have never done it before. Is there anything I need to know about how to get it back together? Is it a simple or complicated process? Is there a trick to getting the springs, sear, etc. lined up?

Thx in advance.

Jimbo

 

[roundball]

I want to clean the lock and trigger mechanisms in my Renegade flinter. I have never done it before. Is there anything I need to know about how to get it back together? Is it a simple or complicated process? Is there a trick to getting the springs, sear, etc. lined up?
Thx in advance.
Jimbo

DISASSEMBLY OF A TC LOCK (both caplock and flintlock)

Remove the lock bolt and lock from the rifle;

Relax the hammer all the way forward;

Remove the mainspring;
I just use needle nose pliers to push the tip of the mainspring rod back against the coil spring so it'll clear the notch in the tumbler...and you might want to do the following:
a) wear a heavy leather glove in case the plier nose slips into your off hand ;
b) somehow manage to enclose your work area in case the plier nose slips off the coil spring and it goes flying to gosh knows where ;

Remove the bridle plate screws & plate;

DON'T LOSE THE LITTLE 'FLY' OUT OF THE TUMBLER;

Remove the sear, sear spring, and sear spring plunger;

Flip the lock over and support it across two pieces of wood or something so the tumbler hangs free;

Remove the hammer screw;

Take a punch as large as the end of the tumbler shaft, and gently tap the tumbler down through the hammer;

Clean & polish contact surfaces;

Reassemble in reverse order;
BE SURE TO REINSTALL THE FLY IN THE SAME ORIENTATION IT WAS IN WHEN YOU TOOK IT OUT.

:front:

 

[jimbo15563]

Roundball, :master:

Sure appreciate the instructions. I removed everything down to the bare wood, including the tang and trigger assembly. As I suspected, things were pretty messy. I hadn't done this in the 5 years I've had the rifle. The friend who "lent" it to me said he hadn't done it in the 20 or so years he'd had it. Between the two of us, we probably haven't fired 100 shots through it, and we always cleaned the barrel. Luckily, the only rust I see is on the wood side of the tang. Everything else is covered with a black "gunk".

What I have on hand that might clean this:

A. Soap and water B. Lighter Fluid C. WD-40 D. Hoppes No. 9 E. 90% Alcohol F. Gasoline G. Kerosene H. TC Bore Cleaner.

What I have on hand to polish:

A. Brasso B. Silver Polish C. Toothpaste

I would appreciate your recommendations.

Jimbo

 

[Rocky Johnson]

jimbo Soap&water then the hoppes or boer butter. Like you Iam afraid to take a lock apart. :winking: Rocky

 

[lonewolf5347]

I myself remove the lock from the stock and with a toothbrush @ hot water and dawn diswashing soap give a good cleaning,then blow out the left over water and oil it all down.

 

[roundball]

Roundball, :master:

Sure appreciate the instructions. I removed everything down to the bare wood, including the tang and trigger assembly. As I suspected, things were pretty messy. I hadn't done this in the 5 years I've had the rifle. The friend who "lent" it to me said he hadn't done it in the 20 or so years he'd had it. Between the two of us, we probably haven't fired 100 shots through it, and we always cleaned the barrel. Luckily, the only rust I see is on the wood side of the tang. Everything else is covered with a black "gunk".

What I have on hand that might clean this:

A. Soap and water B. Lighter Fluid C. WD-40 D. Hoppes No. 9 E. 90% Alcohol F. Gasoline G. Kerosene H. TC Bore Cleaner.

What I have on hand to polish:

A. Brasso B. Silver Polish C. Toothpaste

I would appreciate your recommendations.

Jimbo

I clean things like that with a toothbrush and steaming hot soapy water...then a clean hot water rinse;

If you have the luxury of an air compressor that would be the next step;

If not, then I'd go to the next step of an aerosol can of WD40 to blast all the water off, then let them drain on a rag for a while.

I use a stick of stainless buffing compound with a dremel tool to polish the 3-4 contact surfaces, but toothpaste would probably work as well, no more polishing than is required;

Then I douse things with Rem-Oil, drain, reinstall;

I'm sure there are many ways and products, this is just the way I settled into doing it.

 

[roundball]

jimbo Soap&water then the hoppes or boer butter. Like you Iam afraid to take a lock apart. :winking: Rocky

Actually, once you do it, you'll realize it's very simple...just a few brief steps...looks very involved but it's not...remember, half the people working on stuff like this at TC are part time college kids.

Just set up a little work area, lay out an old towel or something, follow the few steps above...it's really very straight forward, no special tools or skills required.

Yesterday in the Builders category under a TC Hawken thread I posted a parts diagram and list for a TC Hawken...copy the photo to your PC for reference
:thumbsup:

 

[jimbo15563]

Finally got the nerve up to take the lock apart! The worst part was getting the mainspring to move. The glove is a good idea, those pliers could do some serious damage. With the instructions and the diagram, the rest was a piece of cake. Thanks!

Jimbo

 

[gordy]

Roundball!Great instructions.Over the years I've spent many hours crawling around the floor looking for pins,springs,screws Etc.from both MLs and Cartridge weapons.The smaller the work area the better.I rarely dismantle the lock parts once I have them polished.Just a toothbrush and hot soapy water,and boiling water rinse.compressed air will get the crud out of all areas.I'm not a big fan of W-D 40 for lubeing,but it does desolve and flush hard crud.I normally use Outers,Rem-Oil or hoppes "lightly" before reinstalling. :front:

 

[jimbo15563]

Gordy,

I used hot water and dish detergent followed by a WD-40 spray. I let the parts sit for 1/2 hour, then sprayed them with Remoil. After putting it back together, I wiped the frizzen, flash pan, and flint with 90% alcohol. It seemed to work OK.
I'm not a big WD-40 fan, either. It's penetrating qualities will some times put it where you don't want it, i.e. inside primers, touchholes, nipples, etc. I only use it to displace moisture and then follow up with another type of lube.

Jimbo