Repairing chipped breech corners

[Spruce&Fir]

Working on my first kit, assembling a Woodsrunner. The cold, dry weather here seems to be moving wood around as I’m having to do a lot more fitting than I’ve ever seen described for this kit. The lock will be interesting as the plate outline seems considerably undersized particularly at the nose.

My current challenge is fitting the barrel, I’ve been working slowly with small sharp chisels and a small file wrapped in sandpaper, blacking the metal parts with a candle between test fits. Getting close, but in taking the barrel in/out over and over, I managed to chip out the stock at both corners where the tang and breech face meet. Glued up with CA glue the first time this happened but just broke up another larger chip. I’m hesitant to use CA here again as Im getting worried it will affect my finish. Looking for suggestions - Titebond? Epoxy?

Hoping if I tap the barrel forward from the tang end once I get it started out, I might be able to keep this from happening again. Is there another technique I should employ? I’ve been watching Kiblers videos in advance and during assembly. Thanks for any input!

 

[PEARL DRUMS]

That's very strange. I have put one together for myself and one for my son. Both in the spring in Michigan, high humidity. We had zero issues with anything not fitting. In hind sight, not touching it would have been a good idea. I would call Kibler's and ask your questions. Perhaps a new stock is in order.

 

[brushyspoons]

I use a big fishing magnet stuck to the barrel a few inches from the breech to help lift the barrel straight out of the channel. For the muzzle I just stick in a dowel wrapped in tape for a snug fit.

 

[CuNosecap]

When making wood repairs, I prefer Titebond or any other PVA glue. Just wash any squeeze out off with a damp rag and any stain or finish will not be affected.

 

[Hawthorn1213]

+1 on titebond, ca glue tends to be brittle.

 

[EC121]

If you file the part of the side flat that is in the wood, fitting the barrel is a lot easier. I usually file the bottom edge of the side flat to give the flat a little taper. The barrel is tight as delivered. No need for that.

 

[hawkeye2]

Are you taking the barrel out by holding the forearm and near the muzzle? The best way I've found is to turn the gun upside down with the breech a couple of inches above the bench and the muzzle resting on the bench. Tap the stock at the lock area with your palm and the barrel should drop right out. This way the barrel comes out straight up (or down in this scene) and won't damage the wood. Prying the barrel out muzzle first will result in a damaged stock. This is the method used in our National Armories since the beginning.

 

[tallPercshooter]

If you use Titebond Ultimate, be careful not to get any glue on blued or browned metal parts. It will take the finish off down to bare steel. Ask me how I know, ha ha Great glue, though, super strong waterproof bonds.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

I like to use titebond to repair tear-outs.

@EC121 gives good advise about putting a slight angle on the side flats. I like to draw file my side flats at a slight angle before inletting. Rounding off the sharp edges really helps.

You asked about techniques to remove a barrel...

@hawkeye2 posted the same method as this as I was typing:
To remove a barrel simply hold the gun belly up with your left hand ready to capture the barrel. Tap the stock "comb" downward on a padded surface like your stock support. Just a light tap or two should do it. The barrel will drop out into your left palm. Leave the stock sitting supported on the surface and slowly lower the barrel downward, as you do continue to hold the barrel in the left hand and retain the stock in your right hand. Set the barrel aside.

Another way...
My teacher taught me another technique to remove a barrel while in the process if inletting it and having to remove it several times. Lay the gun belly up on it's barrel facing down on a flat table surface. Put your left hand under the comb or wrist lifting the stock slightly to create a fulcrum. With your right hand push down on the forestock and flex the stock slightly. The bbl will slide out. It's like you're removing the stock from the bbl as the stock comes up and bbl stays on the table. This avoids false impressions and the risk of stressing the wood and causing chips.

 

[Spruce&Fir]

Thank you for the replies. I ran out and picked up a fresh bottle of titebond 2 and have the chip clamped up. I’ve been taking the stock out using the method shown by Jim in his videos, turning the stock upside down and rapping the top of the butt on a padded portion of the bench.

Some great suggestions here, I will give the magnet and dowel a try to help with final extraction. I did already relieve the inside and bottom edges of tang and breach plug slightly, I might hit these again with the file before my next test fit.

I think the grain runout, particularly on the left side of the tang area is less than ideal for this, combined with my novice approach.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Some great suggestions here, I will give the magnet and dowel a try to help with final extraction. I did already relieve the inside and bottom edges of tang and breach plug slightly, I might hit these again with the file before my next test fit.

I've never seen anyone use a magnet and a dowel so I can't speak to how effective it is but be careful with lifting the bbl out by the muzzle. That is what typically causes chip outs at the breech.

 

[Texcl2]

Titebond 2 will work great and you will never see the repair if done right. Not a stress area anyways.

 

[Valkyrie]

Titebond 2 will work great and you will never see the repair if done right. Not a stress area anyways.

^This

The glue joint with be stronger than the natural wood fiber connections themselves and clamped tightly, the repair will be invisible.

 

[Spruce&Fir]

I appreciate all the replies and tips. The glued chip repair is holding and should disappear after staining with iron nitrate, if not I’ll dab some extra stain on the area. Hatchet-Jack’s technique of laying the gun upside down on a blanket on the table and pulling the gun up off the barrel after rapping the top of the butt has worked great, no more chipping as I kept working in fitting. Finished fitting barrel, lock and ramrod guides last night, feels like I’m mostly back on track. Thanks again!

-Spruce&Fir

 

[Valkyrie]

I appreciate all the replies and tips. The glued chip repair is holding and should disappear after staining with iron nitrate, if not I’ll dab some extra stain on the area. Hatchet-Jack’s technique of laying the gun upside down on a blanket on the table and pulling the gun up off the barrel after rapping the top of the butt has worked great, no more chipping as I kept working in fitting. Finished fitting barrel, lock and ramrod guides last night, feels like I’m mostly back on track. Thanks again!

-Spruce&FirView attachment 382250View attachment 382252

Looks good. After final sanding and finish most of it will be gone anyways. You’ll never notice it as will nobody else.