Replacement for GPR ramrod

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Ken Rummer

40 Cal.
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My GPR came with a wooden ramrod. Only one end was threaded for a jag and it is the end that slides into the thimbles. I would need to carry the jag in my pocket instead of on the ramrod while hunting. IMHO this is too inconvenient.

I want to buy a stiff (aluminum?) replacement, long enough for my 32" barrel, that has a 10-32 threaded hole on each end.

Some of the stuff on the market (TOTW) is limp as a wet noodle. Natchez and Midsouth don't tell you what their products are made out of or what is threaded.

Please point me in the right direction.
 
You can purchase a 5/16 or 3/8 alluminum rod at home depot or lowes. Epoxy and pin the type of tip you like to the end and your ready to go.
 
Reverse the rod in the thimbles and install the jag and forget it. Unless you will be still hunting in thick brush, the jag sticking out an inch, or so, in front of the muzzle won't effect a thing.

I have very seldom used a second shot while ML hunting, and then the second load was loaded without swabbing, if that is what you are thinking.

IMHO, I can't remember needing a jag while actually hunting. Afterward, yes, but not while hunting.

good luck,
J.D.
 
Hey Claude...that is the way to go!!!!!! I have seen one of these and they look great. Good advice. :thumbsup:
 
J.D. said:
Reverse the rod in the thimbles and install the jag and forget it.

I'm pretty sure the GPR ramrod cannot be reversed. The loading tip is too wide for the thimbles.

If you want to build your own you can get the tips and rod blank from TOTW pretty cheap. All you have to do is cut, assemble, and finish.


HD
 
Huntin Dawg said:
I'm pretty sure the GPR ramrod cannot be reversed. The loading tip is too wide for the thimbles.

Why can't the rod be reversed? If a loading tip is too large for the thimbles, reduce the diameter until it fits. Won't have to reverse the rod to ram a load either.

Another option is to drill and thread the end of the loading tip to fit the jag.

Conversely, file a few grooves in the diameter of the loading tip and use that as a jag.

Another option is to remove the loading tip and install another threaded tip on that end of the rod.

Lots of options for someone who is willing to improvise.
 
Huntin Dawg said:
J.D. said:
Reverse the rod in the thimbles and install the jag and forget it.

I'm pretty sure the GPR ramrod cannot be reversed. The loading tip is too wide for the thimbles.

If you want to build your own you can get the tips and rod blank from TOTW pretty cheap. All you have to do is cut, assemble, and finish.


HD

Ah, but you can reverse the ram rod. You do have to alter the wide end by grinding or filing it to the same diameter as the rest of the brass tip, but it takes only a few minutes and you can still use that end to ram the ball home if you want to. I did this on both the ram rods in my GPRs and, PRESTO, install the jag/tip of your choice on the threaded end.
 
Hickory rods are tradition. I broke my GPR rod a while back and replaced it with an oak 3/8" rod from Home Depot. Oak works great if you pay attention to the grain. Gotta be straight. For range use I use a 1/2" oak rod plain tip. It really makes it easy to seat tight ball/patch combinations.
 
I've had good luck with tubular brass rods with pinned or soldered on ends. They were recommended to me by RoundBall a few years ago. I like the fact that they tarnished quickly and and have a nice look siting under the barrel.
 
While I can't say your wrong, I wonder what you mean when you said "Some of the stuff on the market (TOTW) is limp as a wet noodle. "

Hopefully you aren't suggesting that if you grab the ramrod 2 feet from the muzzle that it bends when you try to ram the ball?

If that is the problem then I agree that you should get a solid metal ramrod.

To those who want to use a wooden ramrod you will need to remember that the proper way for using it is to grab it about 8-12 inches above the muzzle and then ram it down until your hand rests on the end of the barrel. Then repeat this procedure until the ball is seated on the powder charge.

If your wood does not have any "runout" and you use this method the rod will last for years.

If your wooden ramrod has a threaded metal end on it make sure that it has a cross pin drilled thru the metal and wood. Many of the factory made ramrods do not have this cross pin and often the metal end will pull completely off of the rod if you have screwed a jag or brush into it.
 
Thanks for the advice. The 1/2" dowel sounds like a great idea and I will pick up several next trip to the hardware store.

I solved the Lyman GPR situation by returning the rifle to Cabelas. I ordered a GM barrel in 54 for my Renegade instead. However the GM ramrod is a wet noodle so I bought a brass ramrod from Possibles Shop and it works fine.

The GM 54 shoots 1.5 groups at 75 yds. I can't see well enough to shoot tighter.
 
-----I got one of those wet noodle ramrods years ago--on a hot day it got so limp you could not push the ball down the barrel-----
 
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