Replacement Ram Rods For Military, Smooth & Rifled Bores

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For military muskets with the thin steel ram rods, the rods are actually a little shorter than a shooter might typically appreciate. And, the tips are usually less than ideal. Have any of you fellas found or made replacements?
For a 1847 Fremont I made a threaded brass extension to add length and hold a decent cleaning jag. For it and the 1816, looks like the rods could be made more shooter friendly. Any how, thought I'd ask. Surely somebody out there has made something they liked better.
 
The most I've done was to carry along a large wooden drawer-pull knob, with the hole very slightly enlarged, to use as a "palm saver." I made up some extra-length wooden rods in 7/16" diameter for my .58 and 1/2" diameter for my .69's, with threaded tips fitted and cross-pinned. I use these for cleaning.

Dixie used to offer ramrod adapters which would allow using 5/16"-27 shotgun brushes and mops on the various steel rods, but last time I checked, they only had one size left in stock.

However, on some of the steel ramrods on the Italian guns, the swelled end is said to be a separate piece just pressed or crimped in on. The joint may be nearly invisible, but they are in two pieces. These are fine for loading, which is just pushing against resistance, but for cleaning or removing a dry ball, which involves pulling against resistance, these have been known to pull apart! Somebody who advertised in Muzzle Blasts a while back was offering one-piece forged rods for the Brown Bess, which would be great, and probably more authentic, but I haven't noticed whether these are still available or not.

I also bought two solid aluminum rods with wood handles, nylon muzzle protectors, and brass jag tips from S&S Firearms. These can be used for loading, or for running cleaning patches up and down the bore. However, the threaded ends of the jags on these are 5/16"-24. Shotgun cleaning accessories are threaded 5/16"-27, and in fact, the breech face scrapers I bought from S&S were also 5/16"-27, so these rods are only good for loading or pushing patches.

As far as actually replacing or modifying the original military-style steel ros, though, I never have.

Best regards,

Notchy Bob
 
I have soldered the two piece swelled tip to the rod. Soft solder is sufficient and certainly better than the pressed fit that pulled apart on my rod. Thank goodness it was using the tie a string to my wad of tow so I could pull the tow out when the tow comes off the swelled tip. I also make the threaded extension so I have little extra length when cleaning.

The steel rods are thin to reduce weight and being steel so have sufficient strength for loading and cleaning. Early iron rods would bend and one reason why wooden ramrods for the (Long) Land Pattern Muskets remained in use long after the iron ramrods were being issued.
 
The Pedersoli 1816 has a two piece with the button end soldered on.
If I get a replacement I think it's gonna be TIG welded just so it doesn't worry me.
 
I have soldered the two piece swelled tip to the rod. Soft solder is sufficient and certainly better than the pressed fit that pulled apart on my rod. Thank goodness it was using the tie a string to my wad of tow so I could pull the tow out when the tow comes off the swelled tip. I also make the threaded extension so I have little extra length when cleaning.

The steel rods are thin to reduce weight and being steel so have sufficient strength for loading and cleaning. Early iron rods would bend and one reason why wooden ramrods for the (Long) Land Pattern Muskets remained in use long after the iron ramrods were being issued.

I've seen a few Rammers where folks used common soft solder to solder the buttons back on and the soldered joints failed. Now, it may have been because the people doing it, didn't properly clean the pieces and/or use flux correctly. I don't know.

I used low temp silver solder on about a half dozen of them and they never came apart again.

Gus
 
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