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Replacement ramrod

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barebackjack

40 Cal.
Joined
Apr 4, 2006
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What are the preferences out there for replacement ramrods? Ive been using the factory underbarrel for everything, and with my tight ball/patch, I know its only a matter of time before I break it or wear it thin. I read about the solid brass rods from ??????? october. Do you guys prefer brass, wood, synthetic? I also heard to stay away from fiberglass as its abrasive and you need a muzzle guide, which is out of question for hunting. I would like something that I can just use at the range, hunting, whatever, Im not much for using a "range rod", I would like just a good general purpose underbarrel rod that I can rely on.

Thanks again guys

Boone
 
barebackjack said:
What are the preferences out there for replacement ramrods? Ive been using the factory underbarrel for everything, and with my tight ball/patch, I know its only a matter of time before I break it or wear it thin. I read about the solid brass rods from ??????? october. Do you guys prefer brass, wood, synthetic? I also heard to stay away from fiberglass as its abrasive and you need a muzzle guide, which is out of question for hunting. I would like something that I can just use at the range, hunting, whatever, Im not much for using a "range rod", I would like just a good general purpose underbarrel rod that I can rely on.

Thanks again guys

Boone

I happen to like brass for it's strength, plus, the extra weight it adds helps steady the muzzle on target, and the brass ramrod actually looks good with the brass furniture on TC Hawkens that I happen to use.
Two ML's that I occasionally still hunt around with have strong but lighter tubular brass rods, and all the rest have solid brass...use nylon muzzle guides (from Builder's Supply) with mine to prevent muzzlewear
 
If you break a hickory ramrod, then you are doing something very wrong and unsafe. Grab short strokes so that the rod never flexes much at all.

On the other hand, for a full morning of shooting, I like a brass or stainless steel range rod with a bore guide/muzzle protector. October Country is one vendor -- TVM is another. I have dealt with both and found them to be good all the way round.

CS
 
My favorite rod is a good straight grain hickory. I have one brass rod that came with 32. CVA squirrel rifle, I hate it. Dily
 
I love my solid brass rod but it's a range rod...let me tell ya when it comes time to pull a ball out..it earns it's weight...I love it
 
My vote is also the October County Solid brass ramrods. If you need more than one order them together to save on the shipping.
 
roundball said:
Two ML's that I occasionally still hunt around with have strong but lighter tubular brass rods

Hi,

Where did you get the lightweight tubular brass ramrod?
 
Spoty said:
roundball said:
Two ML's that I occasionally still hunt around with have strong but lighter tubular brass rods

Hi,

Where did you get the lightweight tubular brass ramrod?
October Country....they use good quality .060" wall thickness tubular brass, glue & pin the ends, and knurl 1.5" of the end under the muzzle for a non-slip grip...excellent rods...I have one on a 15/16" barrel that is a .45cal so the 32" barrel is already pretty heavy...when I tried to still hunt some with a solid rod in it, it was simply too heavy after an hour or so.

With the other rifles, I'm walking in to a deer stand and then sitting with the rifle so the solid rods are fine in those cases, and I never worry about a problem with one while out on a hunt
 
Same here. Why is it that new guys don't learn that you load a ML rifle using the hand over hand method, and don't try to run the rod down the barrel with one long shove holding the other end of the rod???
I also teach students to leave their thumbs off the rod, and out along the index finger. Use what I call a " Monkey grip", to grap the rod. If a hot spark were to ignite powder under the rod, it would shoot out of your hands. The natural movement of your fingers will be to open up, unless you thumb is keeping them close with a grasping action. Then you may lose a finger or thumb with the rod and jag as they go by!!! I don'tknow how anyone can break a rod if they use the monkey grip and do the hand over hand feeding technique. dI do have range rods, made of stainless steel, that I love to use. But, in the field, I use hickory.
 
I like hickory, $4.00 for a 48" blank and fun for me to make.
I Never broke one when when loading a gun and did pull a few dry balls with them :winking:
Lehigh...
 
I have no idea what mines is made of. All I know is that its CHEAP! Cheap wood (cracked on the loading jag end).
I load with 6-8 inch strokes, so im not trying to push it all down with one stroke.
It just seems like its a cheaply made piece thats not going to last.

I looked at the brass rods from october country, looked real nice.

How many people here get the knurled ends?

Thanks again

Boone
 
My guns are 18th century style. I make my own hickory ramrods and have never had a problem. they are 5/16 at the threaded end and 3/8 - 7/16 at the muzzle end. Never broken one and have even pulled a couple of balls with them. I just like to use what goes with the gun. Like the folks in the day of the originals. So I guess it depends what you are shooting. A military musket or a mid 19th century gun might have had a metal rod. I would use that. Its the romance of it all!! :thumbsup:
 
I wouldn't have, or use anything other than hickory except on a military musket that was originally fitted with a metal ramrod.
 
While I mostly use a stainless steel range rod for target, I wouldn't consider anything other than a split hickory rod under the barrel. PC and virtualy unbreakable!!!!
 
I keep my hickory rods in my guns and use them while hunting in the field or for woods walk type events. They look great in my gun; are handy and period correct.

However, when punching paper in a timed event; practicing for an uncoming shoot or working load development; I use a stainless rod with a bore guide. For an extended shooting session, it is easier on the muzzle; it is quicker in loading and far easier on the hand.

In short, I use the equipment appropriate for the activity of the moment.

CS
 
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