kh54
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2021
- Messages
- 703
- Reaction score
- 1,126
Greetings All. During the past few years I've bought and traded revolvers and became interested in accessories for authentic looking cased sets. I've acquired a number of cap tins; a few are original 19th century tins, but most are newer or are reproductions of early tins. (See the photos below.) I began to look more closely at originals, mostly looking online, but I've also bought a couple of originals to put in my best cased sets such as my Colt 2nd Generation revolvers. Originals are expensive and I've been disappointed that nearly all the repops are simply mass-produced tins that are close enough in size that vendors just slap on a label and call them "reproductions." Here are the major differences that I've noticed between originals and reproductions, regardless of manufacturer:
I finally figured that if all I was going to get in a "reproduction" tin was a loose approximation of the originals then I might as well make my own. I started with some CCI tins that I had and stripped the paint by burning it off with a propane torch. I first tried paint stripper but it's messy and much slower than the torch. Burning off the paint also gives the metal a warm, gray aged look, which I then enhance with cold bluing for a dark, matte finish. I copy photos of labels and adjust the size, color, etc. as needed, then I print them, cut them out, and glue them to the lid. So, for a negligible cost and about 10 minutes of my time I get a reproduction tin that, I think, is at least as authentic as those found on eBay, Etsy, or from the usual vendors of muzzleloading supplies.
Something you might notice on the original japanned Eley tin is that the can was made from a circular piece of tin that was cut and folded to form the shape and not pressed into shape. I may try that next. I would sure appreciate any hints y'all might share about achieving the japanned finish without too much cost or specialized techniques.
| Original | Reproduction |
| Lids are flat, or slightly domed, with or without embossed labeling (e.g. early "Eley London" lids) | Lids are often recessed with a small shoulder around the edge |
| Lids are not rolled | Lids usually have rolled edge |
| Can sides are usually smooth, i.e. without a roll or stop for the lid | Cans usually have a roll or stop just below the edge of the lid |
I finally figured that if all I was going to get in a "reproduction" tin was a loose approximation of the originals then I might as well make my own. I started with some CCI tins that I had and stripped the paint by burning it off with a propane torch. I first tried paint stripper but it's messy and much slower than the torch. Burning off the paint also gives the metal a warm, gray aged look, which I then enhance with cold bluing for a dark, matte finish. I copy photos of labels and adjust the size, color, etc. as needed, then I print them, cut them out, and glue them to the lid. So, for a negligible cost and about 10 minutes of my time I get a reproduction tin that, I think, is at least as authentic as those found on eBay, Etsy, or from the usual vendors of muzzleloading supplies.
Something you might notice on the original japanned Eley tin is that the can was made from a circular piece of tin that was cut and folded to form the shape and not pressed into shape. I may try that next. I would sure appreciate any hints y'all might share about achieving the japanned finish without too much cost or specialized techniques.
