Hi, I recently purchased a used repro Smith carbine that had a few undiscovered problem until after the purchase. I've fixed a few problems like a clogged nipple and frozen cleanout screw - The former owner never-ever cleaned them and they were packed solid. The main problem now is the difficulty in opening the breech. It's almost a two-handed pull, with the top strap not rising far enough to easily clear (what I call) the rear bolster. The actuator is a silly millimeter too short to lift the strap with ease, but it looks to be intact and not worn. Any ideas? is there any kind of manual abailable for disassembly/assembly that I can get before I go off half-cocked and tear into things?
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reproduction smith carbine manual
- Thread starter pvt lollygag
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Howdy and Welcome from Texas!
Hello!
FWIW I have the same issue with a like new otherwise MINT Pietta Smith Carbine ... takes 2 hands to break her open, nevermind it is already not the most ergonomic designed opening feature for a lefty.
I have heard of people adding a 'shim' under the tail of the locking strap (which is actually an unbelievably strong spring) or where it is screwed on. But I've not tried that yet, as I want to be sure that the action stays closed upon firing.
As is, I concur ... while a cool little carbine, it sure makes a PAIN IN THE AR$E to load and shoot! Not too enjoyable after even the 2nd or 3rd shot!
Now, looking at it 'engineering-wise', one thing I've yet to investigate at any depth is whether or not the locking features on both the bolster and locking spring are formed at true right angles or have a slight angle to them. Such a slight angle, like used on trigger engagement surfaces, is call 'positive engagement' as the surfaces need to 'ride' a ramp that moves UP as it moves along in motion. This only needs to be slight.
If at a slight angle, then perhaps the spring tension could be lessemed to the point to allow for wasier opening, but one should then take care to fully depress the actuator so that the spring totally clears the bolster before opening. Like a revolver, the action should be positive and sure, not forced ... as that caused wear. Not sure if adding a sligh angle is even possible, given that the spring is positioned by the machine screw into the barrel that's holding it in place. Let's see if a picture helps you visualize it!
I have heard of people adding a 'shim' under the tail of the locking strap (which is actually an unbelievably strong spring) or where it is screwed on. But I've not tried that yet, as I want to be sure that the action stays closed upon firing.
As is, I concur ... while a cool little carbine, it sure makes a PAIN IN THE AR$E to load and shoot! Not too enjoyable after even the 2nd or 3rd shot!
Now, looking at it 'engineering-wise', one thing I've yet to investigate at any depth is whether or not the locking features on both the bolster and locking spring are formed at true right angles or have a slight angle to them. Such a slight angle, like used on trigger engagement surfaces, is call 'positive engagement' as the surfaces need to 'ride' a ramp that moves UP as it moves along in motion. This only needs to be slight.
If at a slight angle, then perhaps the spring tension could be lessemed to the point to allow for wasier opening, but one should then take care to fully depress the actuator so that the spring totally clears the bolster before opening. Like a revolver, the action should be positive and sure, not forced ... as that caused wear. Not sure if adding a sligh angle is even possible, given that the spring is positioned by the machine screw into the barrel that's holding it in place. Let's see if a picture helps you visualize it!
The (I call it a lifter) is brass and you can solder a piece to the top or replace it, parts are available. I suspect your problem is with the top strap though. Pietta Smiths have a reputation as being thumb busters. I have to place mine across my legs and use the thumps of both hands to open it and even then it isn't easy. I have done a little experimenting on mine by adding shims under the spring which doesn't work. The top strap and the lug it engages do not have any angle, they are square, and shouldn't be changed. The issue is with the strap itself which is a spring and the solution is to thin the spring from underneath. It's hit or miss as it's possible to take too much off creating a dangerous situation. The gun can come open even eject the tube when firing. I have a friend whose skills, knowledge and experience leave no room for doubt about his tale. He was shooting the pigeon board in a skirmish when he fired and broke the pigeon below the one he was aiming at. The Smith had come open when he fired and the barrel dropped that much. He went back to a Maynard after that. The "good" news is that replacement straps for the pietta are readily available if one takes too much off but they are $80 a pop.
