I have just got a new T/C .50 cal Stainless Steel Firestorm flintlock, and after I shoot anymore than (2) shots a residue forms in the igintion area. If you continue to try to seat a ball, each shot gets progressivly further away (about the dia of the ball) from where I have my ramrod marked from the very first loading. Both my dad and my brother have the same gun except for the SS barrel and hardware. I'am using a home cast bullet (.491-.492 dia anywhere you check it, and, the same one they are using), and 80 grs of FFG powder, tried both .50 x .010 thick and .54 x .010 thick patches to make sure the ball was being covered. Looked at a shot patch, and it wasn't cut or shreaded and looked good where it contacted the ball, Any help with this matter would be great, I'am quite baffled ???
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Residue in barrel causing improper seating depths
- Thread starter tderr
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Like TG said, the type of lube you use could be a cure and swabbing is a definite. You could also have a lot of powder that just fouls more than normal. I got a can of FFg Goex this summer that fouled the barrel something awful, had to swab every two or three shots. If I went four I had to drive the ball down with a hammer. It was just that particular can of powder, didn't happen before and hasn't happened since (I've shot nine pounds of powder this summer and fall). Also, high humidity causes the powder to foul more. FFFg usually fouls less than FFg and is a little easier for a flinter to ignite the main charge. Experiment a little to see what cures the problem, these are just some ideas for you to start with. Take care and good luck, Rick.
As others have suggested, lube can affect fouling.
You didn't mention what you're using but all I ever use is natural lube 1000.
I use it in prelubed patches made by Oxyoke and they're also sold by TC...also use prelubed wonderwads, and use it for bore lubing after hot soapy water cleaning...and I do not use direct petroleum products inside the bore with the natural lube 1000 regimen.
You never have to wipe between shots using natural lube 1000 products...fouling is very
minimal and what little there is remains soft, never building up more than a single shot's worth of fouling.
I've used Pyrodex RS, Select, P, and Goex FFFg all with natural lube 1000 products with the same results...an average trip to the range is 35-50 shots and no wiping between any shots is required.
Try a bag of prelubed patches and wonderwads and see if your problem doesn't go away...enjoy!
You didn't mention what you're using but all I ever use is natural lube 1000.
I use it in prelubed patches made by Oxyoke and they're also sold by TC...also use prelubed wonderwads, and use it for bore lubing after hot soapy water cleaning...and I do not use direct petroleum products inside the bore with the natural lube 1000 regimen.
You never have to wipe between shots using natural lube 1000 products...fouling is very
minimal and what little there is remains soft, never building up more than a single shot's worth of fouling.
I've used Pyrodex RS, Select, P, and Goex FFFg all with natural lube 1000 products with the same results...an average trip to the range is 35-50 shots and no wiping between any shots is required.
Try a bag of prelubed patches and wonderwads and see if your problem doesn't go away...enjoy!
Go with a .495 ball & a .015 patch & a good lube & that should cure the problem. I have had this happen before & it is usually because of too loose a ball/patch combo. I would use Lehigh Lube myself & swab between shots even tho it is said you don't have to.
You didn't say what lube you are using, you might try just a spit patch, Lehigh, Ballistol, 1000 lube, or some moosemilk & see which one works the best. Since ussing the Lehigh I have not had any problems of the "Ring" buildup you are speaking of.
Also, before you start shooting, Be Sure to get all the oil preservative out of your barrel.
You didn't say what lube you are using, you might try just a spit patch, Lehigh, Ballistol, 1000 lube, or some moosemilk & see which one works the best. Since ussing the Lehigh I have not had any problems of the "Ring" buildup you are speaking of.
Also, before you start shooting, Be Sure to get all the oil preservative out of your barrel.
I've had this problem also. When I was sighting in my rifle, I wanted to see how fouled it could get before I had ignition problems. I would not wipe the barrel between shots. wWhen I reduced my primary charge I noticed my patch and ball seated funny. I shot anyway (wrong thing to do) and it sounded different. After giving a good think, something I should have done before I fired, I figured out that each time I loaded I was plowing a ridge of fouling from the previous shot and pushing it all down the tube where it would form a ring at the edge of the powder. When I reduced powder for further experimenting I was seating the ball on the ring of fouling and not the top of the charge.
Lessons learned:
Always think.(even between shots,)
Wiping bore between shots is a good thing for many reasons.
2F seems to foul more than 3F.
Shooting flintlocks is great fun, even if done alittle wrong.
Lessons learned:
Always think.(even between shots,)
Wiping bore between shots is a good thing for many reasons.
2F seems to foul more than 3F.
Shooting flintlocks is great fun, even if done alittle wrong.
Get you a set of Micrometers or a Dial Caliper and have someone show you how to use it. With these tools you can measure the barrel for ringing or swelling. For a control you should measure your barrel at whatever increment you want; 1/2 inch or 1 inch and if you find a difference due to the manufacturing process then write it down. Later on, if checking for a ring or pressure bulge, you will not get a false reading from a difference that was already there.
Starting with a clean barrel, mark your ramrod at the seating depth for both target and hunting loads. Then you can tell at a glance whether the ball is down on the charge or not.
Starting with a clean barrel, mark your ramrod at the seating depth for both target and hunting loads. Then you can tell at a glance whether the ball is down on the charge or not.
Allen: Two ways I check for the bulged barrel. One is to take a small ? 4-6" straight edge & lay on the barrel flats on each flat where you suspect it may be bulged & see if it has a high spot. Another way is put a very tight patch on a jag & oil it & swab the barrel & see if you feel any release in the push pull swabbing at any one place. I have one now in a 40 cal A weight that has a bad place in the barrel & when it hits that place you feel it give for about 3/8" and them tight again.
There is no safe way of repairing a bulged barrel, you should replace the barrel if it is bulged. Sometimes if the bulge is close to the breech & it is a long barrel, you can cut it off & rebreech it & use for a kids rifle or halfstock, etc.
There is no safe way of repairing a bulged barrel, you should replace the barrel if it is bulged. Sometimes if the bulge is close to the breech & it is a long barrel, you can cut it off & rebreech it & use for a kids rifle or halfstock, etc.
Thanks Birdog and Darkhorse,
Micrometers and dial indicators I am familier with since I raced a Formula Ford for almost twenty years and did all the work myself.
The swabing trick I like alot. Some times when I'm shooting I notice that i have some resistance at the muzzle end of the barrel and less as I get closer to the breach end. Since the barrel is much hotter nearest the combustion I have attributed this difference to the barrel heating and expanding from repeated firings. Am I close?
Micrometers and dial indicators I am familier with since I raced a Formula Ford for almost twenty years and did all the work myself.
The swabing trick I like alot. Some times when I'm shooting I notice that i have some resistance at the muzzle end of the barrel and less as I get closer to the breach end. Since the barrel is much hotter nearest the combustion I have attributed this difference to the barrel heating and expanding from repeated firings. Am I close?
Actually, I never seen anyone load & shoot a ML fast enough to make a noticable bore diference.
I suspect it is because the patch is newly compressed in the muzzle & as it goes down the barrel it is like sliding a rail with a piece of soap & it contours to it ?
As for the dial indicator, it will show a distinct change in dimentions with a straight bore. But with a swamped barrel it is gradually changing sizes anyway so it is harder to read a bulge. But I can tell ya for sure, if it is bulged even in the thousands, you can feel it with a tight oiled patch on a jag.
I have a 40 cal. "A" swamped barrel & nobody has yet found the bulge from the outside, but you can sure feel it inside with a tight patch & jag..
I suspect it is because the patch is newly compressed in the muzzle & as it goes down the barrel it is like sliding a rail with a piece of soap & it contours to it ?
As for the dial indicator, it will show a distinct change in dimentions with a straight bore. But with a swamped barrel it is gradually changing sizes anyway so it is harder to read a bulge. But I can tell ya for sure, if it is bulged even in the thousands, you can feel it with a tight oiled patch on a jag.
I have a 40 cal. "A" swamped barrel & nobody has yet found the bulge from the outside, but you can sure feel it inside with a tight patch & jag..
Thanks Birdog6,
The heating issue has happened to me twice.
Somewhere on the internet I came across something that said some new barrels need about 200 rounds through them before they settle down to something consistant. Since I haven't found a good way to cheat on that the only way to get 200 rounds through was to hurry up and do it. I wanted to find out some other things also like how dirty can it get before it won't fire, how long will the flint last, etc.. It was durring this continuse shooting that I noticed the barrel for about 10-15 inches in front of the frizen got hot to the touch. I have carble tunnel and if I can feel it with my hands, it was HOT.
After 95 rounds my shoulder was numb so I went home. Another day I did about the same amount of shooting and noticed the same thing both in the barrel and my shoulder. It was while this barrel was hot that I noticed a tight patch and ball half way down then it seemed to smooth out down near the charge.
I am still amazed how fouled up the gun can get and still fire with no problems.
The heating issue has happened to me twice.
Somewhere on the internet I came across something that said some new barrels need about 200 rounds through them before they settle down to something consistant. Since I haven't found a good way to cheat on that the only way to get 200 rounds through was to hurry up and do it. I wanted to find out some other things also like how dirty can it get before it won't fire, how long will the flint last, etc.. It was durring this continuse shooting that I noticed the barrel for about 10-15 inches in front of the frizen got hot to the touch. I have carble tunnel and if I can feel it with my hands, it was HOT.
After 95 rounds my shoulder was numb so I went home. Another day I did about the same amount of shooting and noticed the same thing both in the barrel and my shoulder. It was while this barrel was hot that I noticed a tight patch and ball half way down then it seemed to smooth out down near the charge.
I am still amazed how fouled up the gun can get and still fire with no problems.
quote:Originally posted by Allan:
Since I haven't found a good way to cheat on that the only way to get 200 rounds through was to hurry up and do it.If you shot double ball loads, you could cut your "BREAKING IN" time in half...
Just kidding...
This will be a good excuse (not that you need one) to go shooting.
Since I haven't found a good way to cheat on that the only way to get 200 rounds through was to hurry up and do it.If you shot double ball loads, you could cut your "BREAKING IN" time in half...
Just kidding...
This will be a good excuse (not that you need one) to go shooting.
You could try loading a double or triple thickness cleaning patch with J-B Bore Cleaning compound and scrubbing the bore vigorously to smooth rough spots and tooling marks. I have heard that really bad bores can be smoothed by shooting a patch covered with J-B around a ball. THIS IS AN EXTREME SOLUTION AND SHOULD NOT BE USED UNLESS YOU ARE TEARING EVEN THIN PATCHES!
For just hard to seat balls you can drill a 1/2" deep hole on the top of your short starter to fit over the end of the ramrod. Remember: it is a really bad idea on several levels to put your shoulder, or even the palm of your hand, over the end of the ramrod when pushing the ball. (Do as I say, not as I do). If a left over ember or carbon build-up flares from the rush of air out the nipple or flash hole you could be skewered - or the rod could snap from just hand pressure and stab you. Either will spoil your whole day.
For just hard to seat balls you can drill a 1/2" deep hole on the top of your short starter to fit over the end of the ramrod. Remember: it is a really bad idea on several levels to put your shoulder, or even the palm of your hand, over the end of the ramrod when pushing the ball. (Do as I say, not as I do). If a left over ember or carbon build-up flares from the rush of air out the nipple or flash hole you could be skewered - or the rod could snap from just hand pressure and stab you. Either will spoil your whole day.
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