Rough barn gun

[oldwood]

One thing new builders seem to overlook , is drawing center lines to line up the parts on center. to compromise the slight off center of the r/r entrance hole , perhaps you could cheat the center line for the entrance thimble a slight amount toward the actual center position , and see what it looks like. On some barn guns , no entrance thimble was used. See how it looks w/ the entrance thimble and w/o the entrance thimble. All it might take is a little judicial stock shaping to fix the r/r entrance position........oldwood

 

[sheriff john]

So I shaped near the ram rod hole a little while watching the kids, I just threw a towel on the floor and put a movie on then went to work hahaha but I think it should straighten up a bit. I have more I want to take off to get it even but it’s looking more like it wasn’t shaped right then drilled crooked

Rear thimble's what I'd suggest, also. My percussion fowler and all my double shotguns have them. I am NOT a gun builder as too numerous badly done projects attest. Enjoying your progress posts, by the way. Please keep us updated.

 

[lbothell]

One thing new builders seem to overlook , is drawing center lines to line up the parts on center. to compromise the slight off center of the r/r entrance hole , perhaps you could cheat the center line for the entrance thimble a slight amount toward the actual center position , and see what it looks like. On some barn guns , no entrance thimble was used. See how it looks w/ the entrance thimble and w/o the entrance thimble. All it might take is a little judicial stock shaping to fix the r/r entrance position........oldwood

If I’m going to be honest I don’t think it has a thimble it’s just wood, I mean it didn’t come with one so I guess it don’t have one hahaha So here is the story of this gun, well the one I’m making up (let’s use our imagination!)

“The old farmer got his Fowler off the gun smith as a “blemished gun” the old farmer got it cheap bc it couldn’t be sold and since times are tough that works out for the old farmer, he knows it’s going to be used for hunting and a tool to take meat. Though blemished it’s a quality gun with quality parts so that makes it reliable. He has to clean up, straighten up, and fix what he can. He works with the limited tools he has bc he isn’t a gun smith and makes it his own.. though not straight or something anyone else might want it is his and he is proud of that!”

Okay that’s what I’m thinking in my mind so now I need to put that into this gun, I think it can be done! Hahaha always got to have a story line makes it more fun!

 

[user 53891]

Sell it to me......

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Oldwood has it right about the centerline but the problem is, how in the world do you get a center line on a precarve like this one? I've fussed over it before and the only advise I can give is to spend as much or more time pondering your next move as you do taking off wood. Pondering is cheap insurance.

 

[lbothell]

Sell it to me......

Hahahah

 

[lbothell]

Oldwood has it right about the centerline but the problem is, how in the world do you get a center line on a precarve like this one? I've fussed over it before and the only advise I can give is to spend as much or more time pondering your next move as you do taking off wood. Pondering is cheap insurance.

So I took and old ram rod that would be about the same size as the one I would be making and to be honest it goes in straight doesn’t bow to anything and fits Nicely. So I feel good about that

 

[64Springer]

Oldwood has it right about the centerline but the problem is, how in the world do you get a center line on a precarve like this one? I've fussed over it before and the only advise I can give is to spend as much or more time pondering your next move as you do taking off wood. Pondering is cheap insurance.

I now have The Wanderer song in my head.

The Ponderer.

Thank you. Thank you very much.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

It's alright until it starts driving you nuts. Last night for me it was the Rolling Stones "You better move on". One of my favorites but I was glad when I got it off my cloud!

 

[oldwood]

While I ponder m/l problems, I listen to Joe Cocker tunes. My favorite is , "You can keep your hat on" The tune has an "off color" lyric , and it's funny enough to laugh about. I like to laugh about stupid stuff.

 

[Mulemauler]

I always clean up the castings before I start to fit them to the wood but it doesn't look like the fit was bad, will just need some work. Cleaning up castings is one of the tasks I hate to do but just part of the job. Take your time and pay attention to the details and you'll have a fine gun.

 

[EC121]

"In the white" can mean whatever the builder wants it to mean. Usually means assembled and shaped with all the metal in the wood. The degree of finish after that is variable.

 

[lbothell]

Well what’s the best tool for removing wood and shaping, Iv been using files

 

[oldwood]

I bought a couple hardware store "Shurform? files in the early 1970's. They are the least expensive coarse wood removing devices , however,you still have to take a 10" coarse, flat and 1/4 round mill file to smooth out the Shurform nicks. Compared to the better rasps , expensive ($60 each) , Nicholson #40 somethings , that cost what a whole set of Shurform rasps cost , the cheaper Shurforms will get you in the ball game. Back when I started building , I found the flat 10" SF , the 10" round rat tail , and a curious little device w/the teeth cut opposite normal "push" direction , so it can be pulled toward you. This one is specially good for shaping forearms on rifles. Also ,Shurform rasps come in a narrow 1/2" flat model , about 10" long that is good and often used. If you know even a little about shaping wood , these devices will get you started , at a reasonable price. Walmart might carry these also...........oldwood

 

[lbothell]

I bought a couple hardware store "Shurform? files in the early 1970's. They are the least expensive coarse wood removing devices , however,you still have to take a 10" coarse, flat and 1/4 round mill file to smooth out the Shurform nicks. Compared to the better rasps , expensive ($60 each) , Nicholson #40 somethings , that cost what a whole set of Shurform rasps cost , the cheaper Shurforms will get you in the ball game. Back when I started building , I found the flat 10" SF , the 10" round rat tail , and a curious little device w/the teeth cut opposite normal "push" direction , so it can be pulled toward you. This one is specially good for shaping forearms on rifles. Also ,Shurform rasps come in a narrow 1/2" flat model , about 10" long that is good and often used. If you know even a little about shaping wood , these devices will get you started , at a reasonable price. Walmart might carry these also...........oldwood

Thank you so Much for that this will help greatly!

 

[Bullit]

Be patient and it will turn out well.

 

[rickpa]

One thing that struck me when removing the lugs on the castings was mentioned. There are 2 types. One type is inlet and pinned to hold the part to the stock. The other type is actually a pour hole and a vent or two for the mold to allow air to escape so there are no air bubbles or void in the metal. Identify which is which before you remove them. The vents are typically larger at the end, thicker, while the attachment lugs are thinner, and more uniform and not tapered. I notice there is a screw in front of the trigger bow to hold it to the stock. It should have had a pinned lug in that place. The pictures show front and rear pins for the guard.

 

[rickpa]

Two more pictures to clarify things.

 

[lbothell]

Two more pictures to clarify

Thank you for posting those pictures it definitely helps! Sadly it wasn’t don’t properly but again as I say that’s okay bc it’s going to turn out great! Not perfect hahah no way but this is what I have in front of me and I’ll make it my own. Even broke the trigger guard tonight I needed it to bend just a wee bit... but no it bent and when I went to bend it back crack ha BUT It’ll just be another part of the fact it’s a barn gun! I cleaned up all the inlets tonight and things are fitting better so that’s good. Have a buddy who will let me borrow some wood files so that’s good too, my files are not taking off enough wood in places and it’s just taking to long but im learning so that’s good

 

[lbothell]

Okay so an update on the gun! I’m putting together two different guns so I just rotate while things are drying or if I need a change of pace. The barn gun is well starting to look kinda like a gun! Got somethings straightened out while others (like the trigger) will have to be the way they are. I wiped down the stock and it’s got some good curl, happy about that! Straightened out the ram rod hole too so that’s good. I did want to ask and you will see in the pictures the worm holes do I want to clean those out before I stain? There not filled with saw dust but it seems like they are? If that makes sense.