Roundball, I used your loading data for paper shot cups in my 20 guage fowler. I used 3x3 post it notes and used a half inch brass rod built up with packing tape so it was .020 under bore size. Started rolling on nonsticky side and rolled it around the brass rod, pulled it up a half inch and folded, poured in an ounce and a half of #5 lead shot, marked level with the top of shot. Poured out shot and cut off at mark. I made up a half dozen of these for an ounce and a half of shot and an ounce and five eighths. The gun was loaded with 80 grns of 2F then one .125 over shot card then half inch felt wad that was started about an inch and a half down the barrel then the paper shot cup and shot, this was pushed down the barrel followed by over shot card. When it was fired at 20 yards and at 30 yards the paper shot cup never opened and stayed a solid projectile. Never could get them to open. What did I do wrong? ::
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Roundball what am I doing wrong
- Thread starter bowfish
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I experienced three things that caused that for me:
1) If the paper is rolled around more than two complete revolutions, it can be so strong that it doesn't burst open and stays together like a slug all the way to the target...ensure that the paper stops short of two complete revolutions so there's about a 1/4" strip of single thickness paper;
2) Or, if the filled shot cup is too tight in the bore, it can't expand and burst...try a little more space around the cup;
3) Or, in some cases, if the paper tube is too long, the OS card will crimp the excess over the shot which sometimes can cause it to fail to open...trying cutting it a little shorter (1/8", 1/4");
It didn't seem to take much difference in any of these three dimensions so be fairly precise...the paper cup will burst and upon exit, flutter to the ground literally within about 10' of the muzzle
1) If the paper is rolled around more than two complete revolutions, it can be so strong that it doesn't burst open and stays together like a slug all the way to the target...ensure that the paper stops short of two complete revolutions so there's about a 1/4" strip of single thickness paper;
2) Or, if the filled shot cup is too tight in the bore, it can't expand and burst...try a little more space around the cup;
3) Or, in some cases, if the paper tube is too long, the OS card will crimp the excess over the shot which sometimes can cause it to fail to open...trying cutting it a little shorter (1/8", 1/4");
It didn't seem to take much difference in any of these three dimensions so be fairly precise...the paper cup will burst and upon exit, flutter to the ground literally within about 10' of the muzzle
"When it was fired at 20 yards and at 30 yards the paper shot cup never opened and stayed a solid projectile."
LOL. You're on to something. In my area it was rumored to be a poacher's practice to slice their paper shotshells with a razor just around the rim of the brass base cap. That way, if a warden asked to see the shell it looked like a paper shotshell, but when shot (presumably at a deer) it tore at the base and held together like a slug. Squirrel season runs Sept to Feb, so an unscrupulous type had an aliby for carrying the shotgun in the woods.
LOL. You're on to something. In my area it was rumored to be a poacher's practice to slice their paper shotshells with a razor just around the rim of the brass base cap. That way, if a warden asked to see the shell it looked like a paper shotshell, but when shot (presumably at a deer) it tore at the base and held together like a slug. Squirrel season runs Sept to Feb, so an unscrupulous type had an aliby for carrying the shotgun in the woods.
Reminds me of reloading trap and skeet hulls so many times that sections of the hull would separate and fly through the air making a loud screaming/whistling noise.
Shows you what high pressure can do when you consider that the hulls are much large diameter than the bore, sitting in their larger diameter chambers, yet get squeezed down enough to blow through the bore...same thing about the pressure behind the bullet hitting the forcing cone on a revolver...you manually hold one up against the forcing cone and think "no way" this things getting it there, but they do, all day long
Shows you what high pressure can do when you consider that the hulls are much large diameter than the bore, sitting in their larger diameter chambers, yet get squeezed down enough to blow through the bore...same thing about the pressure behind the bullet hitting the forcing cone on a revolver...you manually hold one up against the forcing cone and think "no way" this things getting it there, but they do, all day long
Not for nuthin', In my cartridge BP shotguns I had good luck using lighter paper. I tried both Zig-Zags, and Bugler. Bugler being heavier paper it held the shot together more. I also initially tried "linen" paper and found the results simular to what you described.
Appears to be a medium on paper thickness (strength) that ends up being a determining factor.
I'd try a lighter weight paper at this point. Post'ems are pretty tough papers.
I'm not shure, but I've read where cigarrett papers are nitrited and work well as paper cartridges in cap locks. Not too sure if it would turn out the same in a flinter though (doubtful).
Appears to be a medium on paper thickness (strength) that ends up being a determining factor.
I'd try a lighter weight paper at this point. Post'ems are pretty tough papers.
I'm not shure, but I've read where cigarrett papers are nitrited and work well as paper cartridges in cap locks. Not too sure if it would turn out the same in a flinter though (doubtful).
Bowfish, I have had the same problem with paper shot cups that fail to open creating a 60cal. hole in my turkey target, not the best thing for hunting. I cured that problem by making six equally spaced 1/2in. slits at the top, also make sure that the shot is at least even with the top or slightly higher. I have the best luck using the heaviest shopping bag paper I can find and glue the seam. This has improved my patterns by as much as 25%
Keep yer flint sharp
Keep yer flint sharp
