I am in the process of rust bluing the barrel for my Kentucky pistol using LMF browning/degreasing solution. It seems easy enough, but a bit more messy when descaling than browning. It doesn't seem that rust bluing is very common, but I like the looks so far. It seems that it would be an easy way to give an antique look if you stopped after just a few coats. Why isn't it used more? Are there any disadvantages?
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Rust blue
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Erzulis boat
45 Cal.
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I rust blue quite often, and have been pleased with the "Herters Belgian Blue".
The Pilkington RB formula works equally well...but costs about 40(?) times as much by volume.
The LMF browning solution used as a "rust blue" is not the same as the real article.
Genuine rust bluing is a wet, somewhat labor intensive process that requires a fine touch.
The Pilkington RB formula works equally well...but costs about 40(?) times as much by volume.
The LMF browning solution used as a "rust blue" is not the same as the real article.
Genuine rust bluing is a wet, somewhat labor intensive process that requires a fine touch.
Stophel
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I tried it a couple of times a few years ago. I never was successful at it. It just wouldn't ever get rid of all the brown color in the sunlight, no matter how much I boiled it! I am told that it is a VERY "technique sensitive" process, requiring pure, distilled water, and everything must be done just so.
Erzulis boat
45 Cal.
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I use distilled water, and a stainless steel container. I initially used a propane setup, but even with minimal heat, the water boils off too quickly. I purchased one of those 2 "burner" food service electric stoves from a resturaunt supply house, and now use it exclusively.
I boil everything "in the white" for about 15 minutes, then get to work. One trick is to keep the metal parts hot, a barrel will retain this heat better than a triggerguard due to mass (once "operating temperature" is attained), and seems much more forgiving.
I swab on the solution lightly, quickly, and evenly, as soon as the parts have "dried", but I do wipe off excess water with cotton that might "pool and cool" in a triggerguard recess etc.
I let the solution rust up for maybe 8 minutes initially just to get the show on the road. The components are quite cool at this point, and then require about another 15 minutes on the boil.
The "rust up" cycles then turn into 5 minutes or so, but the boil remains at 10 to 15 minutes.
The final boil is about 25 minutes, with fresh distilled water. After the desired texture and color are achieved, you will have time to change out the water, and wait for it to come to a boil.
Carding is done with a long sweeping motion, and becomes discriminatory, as some areas require a heavier/lighter touch. I just use steel wool (000) from the hardware store.
Hardened steel (Rc 50 plus-?), is more difficult to color, and screws must be allowed to "rust up" between boilings for about 20 to 25 minutes for the solution to "bite", or the durability of the blue will be severely limited.
I will probably rust blue the steel furniture on the "Coaching Carbine" build and will post photos of the setup.
I boil everything "in the white" for about 15 minutes, then get to work. One trick is to keep the metal parts hot, a barrel will retain this heat better than a triggerguard due to mass (once "operating temperature" is attained), and seems much more forgiving.
I swab on the solution lightly, quickly, and evenly, as soon as the parts have "dried", but I do wipe off excess water with cotton that might "pool and cool" in a triggerguard recess etc.
I let the solution rust up for maybe 8 minutes initially just to get the show on the road. The components are quite cool at this point, and then require about another 15 minutes on the boil.
The "rust up" cycles then turn into 5 minutes or so, but the boil remains at 10 to 15 minutes.
The final boil is about 25 minutes, with fresh distilled water. After the desired texture and color are achieved, you will have time to change out the water, and wait for it to come to a boil.
Carding is done with a long sweeping motion, and becomes discriminatory, as some areas require a heavier/lighter touch. I just use steel wool (000) from the hardware store.
Hardened steel (Rc 50 plus-?), is more difficult to color, and screws must be allowed to "rust up" between boilings for about 20 to 25 minutes for the solution to "bite", or the durability of the blue will be severely limited.
I will probably rust blue the steel furniture on the "Coaching Carbine" build and will post photos of the setup.
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