Rust Blueing Tank

[buenger228]

I'm getting ready to finish a barrel with Mark Lee's Express Blue #1. Does anyone have a good way to make a tank for boiling water that will accommodate a 42" barrel?

 

[Stophel]

I bought a heavy sheet steel tank from Brownell's.

 

[Goldhunter]

Do you have to boil the metal, or just apply boiling hot water? I ask because I used some PVC pipe to put the barrel in, and poured in boiling water (scolded it). Let it cool to the touch and did this a couple times. Got a nice dark blue color; but that was with LMF.

 

[ZUG]

I use that same rust blue and I think you will like it - very easy to use. I made my "tanks" out of steel gutters from Home Depot. I cut them to lenght and soldered on the end caps with plumbers solder. Used either the kitchen stove (I'm divorced- I do what I want) or I have a turkey frier that I have used. I have used both tap water and bottled water - did not see any difference - use gloves when handling the parts. Have fun :thumbsup: !

 

[buenger228]

I like the idea of using a piece of gutter. I have a piece of corrugated tin that i was considering bending into a u-shape trough and soldering some flashing on each end. The tin is galvanized and I'm worried if that, or otherwise treated metal, will have any effect on the boiling water. I assume the gutter from the Depot was treated with something, and if that worked fine then I'll be in business. Thanks for the input.

 

[Stophel]

I've only used the tank once...with poor results. Only because I wasn't doing it right, though. I've been practicing my rust blueing on a smaller scale, with more promising results, now that I know how to do it. I have another barrel I plan to try out again. I'm just going to build a fire in the back yard, and boil it that way. Someone once mentioned that they boil the water in a regular pot and then just pour it into the tank, and that works for them.

I have Belgian blue, but I want to try the Mark Lee version also.

 

[ZUG]

I finish the metal using 320 to 400 grit wet/dry paper then rub with very fine "Scotch-brite" for a satin look. Then degrease the metal and handle with rubber gloves. Prepair your tank on your burner, add water, light fire and heat water - do not boil it at this time. I then take a Brownells 1/2" daubber (you can also wad up a cotton cloth and grab it with a pair of forceps) and wipe a wet coating on the metal, let stand 5 min. wipe on another coating, let stand 5 min. during this 5 min wait I crank up the heat to get a boil going - not big bubbles just about 1/8" to 1/4" size. I now plop the part/parts in the tank for about 5 min. Then remove the part and wipe on another coating of the solution, let stand 5 min, reapply another coating - check water in tank and top off if necessary - bring to boil and plop into tank. I do this for a total of 4 cycles. After the 4 cycles I rinse with clean tap water and prepair a bakesoda bath. I then place the parts into the bakesoda bath and let stand for a few min, back out of the bath and back to the tap water rinse. "Softly" wipe dry - apply a wax coating - I like a carnuba base or Balastol and your done. Notice I have not said anything about "carding" as I found this step unnecessary and non extistant. The coating is "soft" at this time - let it "cure" for at least 24 hrs before rubing hard on it. I'm not an expert on this but this has worked well for me so far. Good luck.

 

[JOHN L. HINNANT]

Good Morning Buenger228,

A piece of pipe split in half lengthwise, with rectangular shaped plate welded on both ends made a good tank for me, and can be made into any desired length.

Best regards and good shooting,

John L. Hinnant

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