rust bluing results

[bioprof]

I finished rust bluing the barrel on my Kentucky pistol. Used LMF browning/degreaser solution and blanched in boiling water before carding. The end result was after 4 cycles of boiling/carding. The tang didn't seem to want to take a blue very well; must be made out of a different alloy steel. I still have to put the finish on the lock. Here's a updated pic:

 

[Erzulis boat]

Looks excellent!

:hatsoff:

 

[Goldhunter]

Looks VERY NICE. Dumb question, what is carding? I've used the LMF browning stuff before, but am not familiar with the term.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Literally, Carding, was using a brush like device made for either " carding " wool, or a " file card" used to clean the teeth of a file, to remove rust that builds on the surface of the barrel. Most people simply use various grades of steel wool to " card " the rust off of the barrels. Just remember that steel wool has oils in it, and you will have to degrease the barrel after every carding before putting more finish on it for the next cycle of rusting.

 

[Goldhunter]

ahhh. Got it. thanks :thumbsup:

 

[Craig]

I have a black powder gunsmithing book that talks about degreasing the steel wool before using it. I did not use any steel wool on my recently completed kit so I have no first hand experience. I would not even try to portray myself as a good novice much less an expert. I merely pass it along for what it may be worth to others.

 

[paulvallandigham]

The one time I degreased wteel wool it turned into a rusty pad of wool! I am sure it works, doing it that way, but the reason they oil the wool is so it doesn't rust before you get to use it. I mainly use when finishing wood stocks, and for knocking down excess stock finish. I don't need it rusty for that use. I suppose I could dedicate a bottle with a wide mouth full of rubbing alcohol, or some other degreaser, and just keep the wool in that jar with the lid closed to keep the wool from going to rust. If I was doing lots of rust bluing that might be the way to go. Its easier for me to degrease the barrel and parts I am bluing, or browning, because you never know when in the process of carding the barrel will come in contact with something oily. It takes a few moments to wipe the parts with a degreaser, and that evaporates while I am preparing to put more solution on the part for bluing. To each his own way, no?

 

[bioprof]

For what it's worth, I used 0000 steel wool to card the barrel, didn't degrease and had no problem at all. I rusted it up good before I heated it in boiling water for the first time, so maybe that helped.

 

[BlackNet]

use bronze wool, it doesnt' rust, it doesn't have that crap on it that makes it flamable and it doesn't flake off like steel wool.

 

[gmww]

What's nice about LMF is its a degreaser. Works right through fingerprints too. :hatsoff:

This last time I used it I let it sit during it's final coat for a day. Gave it a light uniform pitting effect. Now it has a deep dark brown finish with a light texture. :thumbsup:

 

[Zonie]

I always degrease/dewax my steel wool if I am using it to card a part I am blueing.
More than once I had to backtrack in the blueing process because of the oil/wax that was left on the steel wool by degreasing it with things like alcohol and disk brake cleaner.

I have sense learned to degrease only as much steel wool as I plan on using by soaking it in hydrochloric acid, rinsing it in water and allowing it to dry.
Yes, it rusts some when you do this, but it won't affect the blueing process.

Once, when I didn't think about it, I used a untreated steel wool pad to card a barrel I was browning with Birchwood Casey Plum Brown.
When I tried to apply the next coat of PB, it started to bead up while it was boiling off leaving such an ugly finish I had to resand it and start over.

zonie

 

[Old40Rod]

3M pads work well for carding using a light touch. I have also had good luck with old towel scraps (of fairly rough material).

 

[54JNoll]

New denim, old denim, and canvas work well for carding too. Often I use some old canvas to card the first few rusting cycles and then switch to steel wool later in the process. It helps get the process going on tough barrels or when the humidity is low.

Bio Prof: Nice looking pistol.

 

[gmww]

I've been using a cotton cleaning patch. Been working for me anyways.

 

[patch knife]

Nice job Bioprof ! :thumbsup: How long did you wait after applying the LMF brown before you put it in the boiling water ? I want to do the same thing to my Kentucky pistol .

 

[Old40Rod]

Patch, if you let it get very brown, you will get a deep rich chocolate brown with boiling water... nothing that resembles blue in my experience. I used the method on a CVA kentucky pistol replacement barrel after the 4th or 5th cycle... a nice deep rich brown.

 

[patch knife]

Thanks old40rod , I'm going to blue it (fire or charcoal) or leave it white . :hatsoff:

 

[bioprof]

Nice job Bioprof ! :thumbsup: How long did you wait after applying the LMF brown before you put it in the boiling water ? I want to do the same thing to my Kentucky pistol .

I let the brown work on the barrel for 3 hours at a time and just followed the directions for rust bluing that were provided with the browning solution.

 

[john4645]

How do you boil a rifle barrel? I mean what do you boil it in. I like the color of that pistol barrel more than my brown that I got.

 

[dlemaster]

I have a stainless steel tank 6"X6" square and 52" long that friend who is a sheet metal worker made for me. I set one end on my propane BBQ grill which is a little over 2' wide and then a Colman stove setting on a wooden stand I made so the the burners are at the same level as the grill. This outfit is pretty easy to use and I just blued a barrel 48" long with it back in March.

Regards, Dave