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Rust patch?

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Just finished cleaning.
- dry swabbed the barrel, and saw some dark brown stuff similar to the patch in the photo.
- poured boiling water down the barrel with a funnel, let it sit for a few minutes
- then poured it out and poured a lesser amount in so I could swab with the bore mop, vigorously
- poured it out
- dried with patches, including the little patent breech
- dried with the hair dryer down the barrel for a couple minutes
- popped the nipple off, connected my little plastic tube to the hole and pumped alcohol through until it dripped out the muzzle
- dry patches again until nothing left except dry patches coming out, AND THEY WERE SQUEAKY CLEAN
- blew air through the nipple, and the hole where it screws in...a large plastic syringe fits the nipple hole, could hear the air at the muzzle
- an oiled Hoppes patch to lube it and finish off, interesting to note that sometimes ever after cleaning you still see a little bit of lead or crud on the last oily patch....there was NOTHING. Not a spec of anything.

So I will stand it muzzle down for a day or so and then check it with light and dry patch. Hope that got 'er. Not nearly as scary using water as I feared, and if it's clean then that's the way to go for sure. Thanks for the assistance. Will let you know.

Great forum by the way...
The only comment I will add is....when I use boiled water I keep adding it until the breech is to hot to touch.
 
I’m surprised nobody mentioned Ballistol. After dish soap and water, I then either blow dry or use dry patches. Then a patch with Ballistol. Also, boiling water heating up the barrel can cause flash rusting.
 
I do have another question; I have the same problem as RanchRoper. I've tried many things to keep barrel from rusting, but after a few weeks I'll check it again and there's a light brown rust on the patch. Since I'm new to this thing I want to ask, "could it be the metal?"
I have a Missouri River Hawkens that don't rust afterwards but the TC .54 does?
This evaporating Protestant needs help too before I backside.
 
I agree, I used boiling water when I was a kid starting out and couldn’t figure out why my patches kept coming out with an orange tinge. Flash rust!! Just plan water.
 
I can’t say any thing to flash rust, heard guys see it guys say it don’t happen.
Don’t know, don’t care. Waters too hot you can’t hold on to your barrel. I’ve used near ice cold and very warm. I’ve not seen any difference.
A little dish soap or a sliver of lye soap might be a little faster but not so as you notice. Sometimes I use it some times not, warm water is comfortable even on winter days or hot summer.
 
Be very wary of boiling water. I have shot black powder cartridges in my unmentionables for years and always cleaned with boiling water then oil. The boiling water heat dries the barrels a treat. Recently bought another hammergun similar year late 1800 and the boiling water flash rusts the gun in seconds. "different steel" perhaps.
 
I have heard from other evaporating Protestants that prayer works. Especially when using a rust inhibiting evaporating protectant.

It is somewhat unnerving, but often some of the greasy bore protecting lubricants turn brown in the barrel and the patch looks like you have the rustiest bore imaginable.
 
Ok, checked the barrel this morning after the deep clean yesterday. Dry patches, nothing on them. Then re-oiled with the Hoppes gun oil patch and nothing came out on that patch either. I would expect that if anything was in there, fouling, rust or otherwise....there would have been traces of it on one of those patches, especially the oiled one. There was not a speck of anything. That's 18 hrs after cleaning.
So I think I am good to go with a way to clean this rifle that takes about 30 minutes tops. 40 if I have a coffee with me. I do believe that dry patching and getting the heat dryer down the barrel immediately after the water is out will be key to keeping any flash rust at bay.
Now I just need my new rear sight this week and next weekend there will be lead downrange. :)....I did say a prayer too just so I won't become an evaporating Protestant.
 
Using bore butter might want to read this. I switched from it because of the black tar like goo it made shooting and my groups tightened up greatly. Just a thought. Have seen this improvement with several other shooters.
 

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  • Bore Butter Origial Post.PDF
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Ya I did not use the bore butter down the barrel, and won't. I use it for a patch lube sometimes. If I am getting consistent results going forward like I just got with the hot water/drying/Hoppes oil then I will likely stick with it forever.
 
Boys, I just re-read my post, and found the following, in paragraph #3: "The problem with a lot of these Protestants is that they evaporate in time..."

Maybe that's what accounts for diminishing attendance at Sunday services. You reckon? The congregation is evaporating?

Probably ought to ask whoever programmed the spell-check auto-correct function into the system. Honestly, what I wanted to say was, "The problem with a lot of these protectants is that they evaporate...," but Mr. Auto Correct sneaked in behind me to do his work, and by now my "edit window" has expired.

In any event, I apologize if anybody was offended. As for myself, I'm having to clean off the coffee I spewed over the computer screen when I re-read my post...

Does Hoppe's remove coffee?

Notchy Bob
100-4EA.jpeg
 
...My cleaning routine:

1. Before leaving the firing range i swab the bore with a patch wet with Windex Multi-Purpose cleaner, aka Windex With Vinegar. This stuff dissolves the fouling.

2...

Be aware that vinegar will remove bluing. I would not use it.

I have never seen the need to use boiling hot water. I use warm tap water with dish-washing soap. I then rinse and thoroughly dry everything with compressed air.

A small air compressor can be purchased for less than $100. There is no excuse not to have one.

After everything is dry, I apply a nice coat of Ballistol. Done.
 
Ya I did not use the bore butter down the barrel, and won't. I use it for a patch lube sometimes. If I am getting consistent results going forward like I just got with the hot water/drying/Hoppes oil then I will likely stick with it forever.
Try mink oil or other for patch lube you will notice an improvement.
 
This here " flash rust" is mere tarnishing. Rust is a thick layer of oxidized iron. Tarnish is easily removed with no lasting harm done.
Browning or blueing steel is similar and does no lasting harm.
I guess some just panic on seeing it and determine it's a no go. I prefer tarnishing from water over leaving caustic salts in there because of the misconception very hot water and iron mixed is a bad thing.
 
Using bore butter might want to read this. I switched from it because of the black tar like goo it made shooting and my groups tightened up greatly. Just a thought. Have seen this improvement with several other shooters.
good read!!
 
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