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Rws 1075 caps

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jdw276

40 Cal.
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So got several hundred of these caps.

Shot a few with my home brew BP in a cva 50 cal cap gun. 490 ball, .012 patch etc. So after a few shots the nipple literally clogged up with cap gunk residue. Gun went off but after 3 or 4 shots, fail to ignite. Why? Nipple plugged with gunk from caps. It was stuffed with stuff. I mewn packed.

Is this an experience with other shooters? I mean the caps ignited the main charge but like not all the materials ignited. Caps are 15 years or more old I am guessing. But stored in a locker in climate controlled basement.

Cap issue? Age? Good hits from hammer and lite off all other caps. Maker of the cap? Thoughts?
 
Never had a problem with them.
Is it not powder consumables being deposited there. Usually pressure through the nipple clears any cap debris.
This is a stock nipple from factory. Not a hot shot. This is my home brew bp. Working on getting it to ignite better with more oomph. Will try these caps with ole e, goex or swiss factory made powder to see if more oomph clens it out.
 
Mightn't be a cap issue: 1075's are about the best caps you can get. My guess is you are using a patch /jag for cleaning that is too tight. Instead of pulling fouling out of the barrel it crams it into the breech where, after a few shots it can cause ignition problems. If that is not it look at your powder.
 
When I had this problem it was crud in the fire channel that leads from the nipple to the breech. I would get 3 shots and the nipple would clog up. Water wouldn't get it out, I had to use a pipe cleaner.
 
Mightn't be a cap issue: 1075's are about the best caps you can get. My guess is you are using a patch /jag for cleaning that is too tight. Instead of pulling fouling out of the barrel it crams it into the breech where, after a few shots it can cause ignition problems. If that is not it look at your powder.
I was not swabbing between shots and was using a loose combo and shove it down to make it easy to load as I am looking more at my home brew BP performance than accuracy, power etc. Focused on powder. Thinking that powder is more it so will test factory powder and compare. Along with rem and cci caps. Thanks.
 
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Do not think so. My cleaning method is soap and water. I did run a dry patch through before shooting and even snapped a cap. I am going more with home brew powder not got the punch to push crud back out as you mentioned. Frustrating yet fun to diagnose the issue. Especially when using home made products. Going to try other caps, cci and remington as well to see if.......
 
Do not think so. My cleaning method is soap and water. I did run a dry patch through before shooting and even snapped a cap. I am going more with home brew powder not got the punch to push crud back out as you mentioned. Frustrating yet fun to diagnose the issue. Especially when using home made products. Going to try other caps, cci and remington as well to see if.......
I just wondered if you use oil for storage. Many do. Personally I think it is a recipe for disaster!
 
I just wondered if you use oil for storage. Many do. Personally I think it is a recipe for disaster!
If any oil is used it has to be removed from the bore and the fire channel.
My cleaning method is soap and water. I did run a dry patch through before shooting and even snapped a cap.
A dry patch and snapping a cap will NOT remove excess oil from the fire channel. It just adds to the tar like goo.
 
True @Grimord, the alcohol will remove the left-over gummy oils or preservatives from the bore and the breech of a traditionally breeched barrel. However, if the rifle has a chambered breech, the alcohol may not remove the oils from the chambered breech. In that case, one must store the gun with the muzzle down to let the oils and preservatives run out of the chambered breech, breech and barrel while the gun is stored. Nearly no oils to gum up at the breech and the wiping of the bore with an alcohol patch will condition the bore to start shooting.
 
True @Grimord, the alcohol will remove the left-over gummy oils or preservatives from the bore and the breech of a traditionally breeched barrel. However, if the rifle has a chambered breech, the alcohol may not remove the oils from the chambered breech. In that case, one must store the gun with the muzzle down to let the oils and preservatives run out of the chambered breech, breech and barrel while the gun is stored. Nearly no oils to gum up at the breech and the wiping of the bore with an alcohol patch will condition the bore to start shooting.
I neglected to mention, that on my guns with a chambered breech I attach a cotton swab (Q-tip) to the end of my ram rod, soak the swab in the alcohol, and clean the breech of any residue oils or preservatives. I also store my guns muzzle down in my safe after cleaning.
 
Your loose ball and patch combination could be generating excessive amounts of fouling. The tighter the fit, the less fouling is left in the bore.
 
Bought a couple of plastic tins from my BP shop and noticed having a few duds and some producing a very faint pop and sparks. Never had this happen with Remington, CCI or Winchester caps. May be a bad batch?
 
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