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s' mtn rifle

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kaintuck

54 Cal.
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Messages
1,811
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more done.........
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and the begginings:
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I like the overall architecture, and the browning is coming along very nicely, but I agree about the lock.
 
Well I will tell him. The inlet work on the lock is nice but most southern / tn mt rifles I have seen built or held all had locks similar or used the small siler sometimes the large siler lock. The southern and mountain rifle had the pointed corner on the lock. You choose a hawkens style lock. Nothing wrong with it, it will work fine just not very HC/PC..
 
:wink: HC/PC may be a matter of perspective, since kaintuck lists his location as the hills of tenn. and is being built now, it would seem to me to be HC/PC correct for his southern mt./tn. rifle would be pretty much any way he wants to build it.... :haha:
 
nmdd said:
:wink: HC/PC may be a matter of perspective, since kaintuck lists his location as the hills of tenn. and is being built now, it would seem to me to be HC/PC correct for his southern mt./tn. rifle would be pretty much any way he wants to build it.... :haha:
Hey I have built guns using extra locks and trigger sets floating around the house, and made WIT guns (What is It). His work is spot on and looks good not talking nothing bad about his work. Necci he can always make it a convertible gun and have a flinter anytime he wants since he built a percussion first.
 
Every recorded original Tennessee rifle had an English or hardware store style lock. The lock Mark used here is more than appropriate for this build.

The ones you must be seeing are modern recreations that started when the Siler was about the only lock available to most builders. This has hung on 'til today, as can be witnessed by looking at almost any kit producers catalog or site.

Though many have tried to uncover a Southern Mountain gun with a Germanic lock to try to justify this, none have been successful.

Was there one? Maybe, but history don't support it yet.

Lookin' good there Mark! But loose that brass tip on that rammer. Plain wood end on the outside and tapered steel tip or wiper on the other. Enjoy, J.D.
 
2_Tall said:
Well I will tell him. The inlet work on the lock is nice but most southern / tn mt rifles I have seen built or held all had locks similar or used the small siler sometimes the large siler lock. The southern and mountain rifle had the pointed corner on the lock. You choose a hawkens style lock. Nothing wrong with it, it will work fine just not very HC/PC..

Then you have not seen or handled one correctly built. IMHO. Show me ONE original Southern Mtn. or Tenn rifle with a Siler lock or original Germanic lock....... Allot of them have late Ketland locks & a short tail on the Ketland lock, or an english lock, but a Siler lock is the wrong lock for a Southern Mtn. or Tenn rifle. Ask anyone that has studied them in depth, and they will tell you the same.

Keith Lisle
 
are you REALLY 98 years old ?
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thanks for the pics Marc.

You didn't ask, but I'll offer 2 cents.
I think ya still got some big shoulders around that tang, above your lock.
Personally, I'd be thinning the panel tops on both sides and filing down a whole lot of wood in that area.
But maybe you're still sneakin up on it too.
Anyway, sorry for offering opinion when none was asked for.
Just throwin' things out there.

Ya gonna put screws fore and aft in the trigger guard ?

/mike
 
JD, the RR? i'm gonna turn it around, but I need to file the brass end smaller...it's a snug fit in the bore and thru the thimbles....bit has interal threads for patch jag etc....it will look better plain ol wood tip I think~
I need to D&T the nipple, put sights on, brown the barrel, then stain the stock and seal........

The barrel isn't pinned yet..(thus the tape bandages)...I will do that someday, as it will be a barrel pinning....no tenons~ so I will cut and drill after I figgure out exactly what and how~
And that thin forearm stock!!!!...I will put a thin layer of accuglass to help strengthen that cherry.......
the trigger guard is ready to be pinned....which i believe it will strentghen that wrist area...

and fella's....this is a current Kalifornia safety rifle....no way to fire it w/o a nipple!!! :rotf:

and then it's done.......off to the NEXT rifle...a lancaster 50cal straight 44-1/2" Burton barrel...hidden higes Horse head PB, and some carving around on it.......tomtom likes Lancasters! :youcrazy: :stir:
 
kaintuck said:
JD, the RR? i'm gonna turn it around, but I need to file the brass....
Yes, hide it and leave the exposed end plain wood.

....it will be a barrel pinning....no tenons....
No tenons???? I know how....but why???? :confused:

And that thin forearm stock!!!!...I will put a thin layer of accuglass to help strengthen that cherry.......
We've been down this road so many times here it's getting tiring. Even according to accuglass' instructions in needs to be a certain thickness to give any strength, thin coat doesn't do anything but give a false sence of security. It requries removing wood to get it in there the thickness they recommend and that's completely assbackwards and unneccessary in a forend....the barrel protects it. When the barrel is out? Be careful.

the trigger guard is ready to be pinned....which i believe it will strentghen that wrist area...
The reason Mike is asking about screwing the trigger guard returns is that is the way they are normally done on these Tenn. guns, not pinned.

....this is a current Kalifornia safety rifle....no way to fire it w/o a nipple!!!
A non-firing replica. :grin:

Stain? Cherry shouldn't need stain. Oven cleaner or Red Devil Lye, or your own made from wood ash, even some time in the sun will bring out the natural color of cherry beautifully....and it won't fade over time, but get richer. :wink:

No patchbox on this one? I bet a dark browned steel one would look good against the orange of the Cherry. :wink: Ejoy, J.D.
 
When I was young, in the '60s, Miller (blacksmith/gunsmith/mentor) told Chuck and I; "Make 'em anyway you want boys. There ain't no two of 'em alike nohow." We never had never seen a carved, high dollar gun in those days, just common working guns. I do see the benefit in getting the architecture correct, but the details should be of the builder's own liking. (imho of course.) All this to say, I like it!
 
JD,
ooppss...Tg already drilled...I thought about a screw....I did....but pinned i did......

and those tenons on this fat barrel would just be extra work...so i will inlet the steel some, and drill/work slot in the barrel itself~ i have enuff meat to do it...and it's be different~

and yup...I may skip the accuglass.....it adds extra work for sure, and $$$ to me.

i will try some oven cleaner to a spare piece...i have never done THAT type of finish....

it's getting hot again....so early morning saturday, i will try some of these thoughts~
me an :youcrazy: will be happy out there working!
 
Hey, I like that lock. Looks just like the one I put on my Hog rifle. :thumbsup:
 
:thumbsup: Don't know bout the lock, but you did get the R R hole deep enough, so you don't smoke the end of the ram rod. Just m2senc. Good lookin smoke pole! :hatsoff:
 
sweed4570 said:
...you did get the R R hole deep enough, so you don't smoke the end of the ram rod...

Are you sure? I bet that's why he needs that threaded end....he carries a short extension in his shot bag! :haha: :haha: :haha:............Enjoy, J.D.

P.s. You do know about the lock now. You've been educated. :grin: :wink:
 
Anyway, sorry for offering opinion when none was asked for.

I don't believe any apology was necessary. When one posts something that is automatically asking for responses and opinions.
And, I'll opin, that would most especially be true with a work in progress.
 

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