I like your idea, Joe. I would also lengthen the choil, or finger cut on the back of the blade just in front of the lower guard arm, so it is wide enough to allow you to wrap your index finger through the cut out, and in front of the guard, to help give you control when you are working with the knife actually cutting, or skinning an animal. This grip is particularly useful with your hands are bloody, because the guard will allow you to lock the knife between your index finger and the middle finger- your two strongest fingers- so that you maintain control no matter what.
The knives I love to make, and look at are usually asymetrical, either in the blade, the handle or both. I make my handles wider at the top, and narrower at the bottom( the side where the edge of the knife is) because the human hand and fingers are built that way. I also belly the bottom of the handle so that the fingers conform, and the big knuckles line up in a row on the knife, while I use a lesser swell on the top side of the handle to fill the palm of the hand, and provide something for the web of the hand to grip. Some folks put a thumb groove on that one side of the grip, but I have not found that particularly useful, nor necessary for a good grip when a knife is under heavy use.
I'll shorten the top bar and put a slight curve forward. How about keeping the bottom bar straight for about a third to half its length and then a little more curve to the rear?
