Scandinavian grind trade knife

[freekforge]

Well i decided to try my hand at making a scandi grind on a couple trade knives and here are the results. Turned out pretty good if i do say so myself.

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[LRB]

I'd rate it better than pretty good, but why a Scandi grind?

 

[freekforge]

Thanks Wick!
I was asked by a couple guys to do it so I did. They are real big in bushcraft and reenacting and wanted one knife for it all.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Look good to me.
But??? Watsa Scandinavian grind?

 

[LRB]

The bevel is only ground on one side. I have never cared for it, but some like it, some don't.

 

[Claude Mathis]

The bevel is only ground on one side.

Sushi chefs like it. :wink:

 

[freekforge]

according to the interwebz and the guys ive made them for a scandi is pretty much a short flat grind. like in this pic

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[Rifleman1776]

according to the interwebz and the guys ive made them for a scandi is pretty much a short flat grind. like in this pic

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OK, now Wick said:

The bevel is only ground on one side

And that gives us a controversy. Thet nebber happened here before. :rotf:

 

[huntinguy]

according to the interwebz and the guys ive made them for a scandi is pretty much a short flat grind. like in this pic

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OK, now Wick said:

The bevel is only ground on one side

And that gives us a controversy. Thet nebber happened here before. :rotf:

nope, the bevel is only ground on one side, an angle is ground on the other. No controversy at all. :blah:

 

[zimmerstutzen]

Sounds like a government explanation to me

 

[Brokennock]

The picture is correct. A Mora is a good, cheap, common, example. Very easy to resharpen as far as maintaining a constant angle is concerned. I love it, but it does have it's limitations as all grinds do. Some grinds are better for some jobs than others.

I'd be interested in acquiring what would look to be an otherwise pc/hc knife with this grind of good high carbon steel.

Hint.

 

[Stophel]

I've never understood the "easy to sharpen" claim.... especially since I find knives with regular grinds to be quite easy to sharpen anyway.

To sharpen a Scandinavian grind, you have to remove a LOT of metal. A LOT. The edge is HUGE. I would dread the day my knife edge got a nick in it. OH how much metal would have to be ground off to reestablish the edge!

For woodcarving (it's almost a chisel edge) it would be good since you can lay the edge against the wood and get it to "bite" easy. Or, of course, if you're using it for a splitting wedge and pounding on the back of it with a mallet.... Otherwise, it seems VERY impractical to me. I have one of the Mora knives and a couple of other blades, and the knife is neat and all, but I don't really use it much since I'm afraid of having to resharpen it! :haha: I've actually considered grinding the sides of the blade down to get rid of some of that ridiculously wide edge (and some of the way-too-thickness), making it more of an ordinary flat or even hollow grind, which would make it a vastly more useful blade for me. I know they're all the rage now, but the Scandinavian grind just isn't for me. :wink:

 

[Brokennock]

One can always sharpen a secondary edge on it. and many do. And I get your reference to batoning. Actually, if the steel isn't ideal many don't like it for batoning because they feel that without that secondary edge a scandi is likely to chip.
If one strops the edge regularly one shouldn't have to resharpen by metal removal often. But when you do, simply lay the flat of the blade on the stone and tip till the edge touches easily establishing and keeping a constant and consistent angle.
I personally hate hollow grinds. While they may take a wicked edge easily, they seem fragile and tend to wedge and stick in any material being cut that is of greater thickness than the depth of the blade.

 

[LRB]

Thank you all for the correction. Seems I was misinformed long ago, but now knowing what it really is, I dislike it even more.

 

[twgore]

What's the historically correct grind to use?

 

[Rifleman1776]

Sounds like a government explanation to me

And to huntingguy's explanation I can only respond:

"Huh"???

Pic looks even on both sides. Are we supposed to start telling "Who's on first?" jokes now?

 

[freekforge]

Im not crazy about them. They do work well for carving. I dont think they are all that easy to sharpen personally I have my dad sharpen my mora since i always screw up some how but from what i can tell most people find it easier. The only personal knife i have with a scandi is a mora 840mg and thats because it has saved my life once so i figure why change it.

 

[crockett]

Ironsmith: if you are talking about the cheap trade knives sold by the fur companies, those blades were pretty thin to start with. If you are familiar with some of the Russell/Green River knives currently sold, I'd copy than. So, not a absolutely flat grind from spine to edge but maybe a primary bevel thinning towards the edge and then the last 1/8 or 3/16" a secondary bevel to the actual edge.
But remember, once the local NDN's got these knives they often sharpened down on one side- like a sushi knife. This one side sharpening cuts the bevel in half and makes it easier to touch up and resharpen the blade but the wear is massive- the reason a lot of the scalper type knives may show excessive wear.
On Bowie type knives. there was some variety but I'd say a lot had what I would call a flat grind from spine to edge. This actually makes a blade that is much lighter than it looks, the spine might be 1/4" but the overall knife is very manageable. These would be some of the Sheffield Bowiers made for the American market.
And, as I said, nothing etched in stone. There was variety in bevels.

 

[LRB]

I'm sure there are variations depending on the maker and type of blade, but many are a slight convex, appearing fairly flat to the eye. This may be the result of hurried work rather than intent, except in the case of chopper types.