scratch

[lone pine]

I accidentally scratched my 3rd model model putting it into a horse holster that had a bare brass rivet on the inside. can anyone offer realistic suggestions for polishing this out? thanks
lp

 

[2 shots]

degrease and cold touch up blue. the pen type may work . wedge screw??

 

[lone pine]

no. it's forward of that, flanking both sides of the screw for the the loading lever. I'm hoping for some more input also. this is my favorite piece.

 

[kh54]

if you want like new appearance I can only think of sanding down the scratches and rebluing. My Uberti Walker was in great mechanical condition but the finish was flawed. I stripped all the bluing, left the cylinder white like originals, then cold blued the rest. My cold bluing job is not professional and gives the gun a worn but cared for look. Anyway I like it.

 

[2 shots]

i saw the marks . i was just mentioning the screw because its missing. unless you want to reblue the entire gun ,cold touch up is your best bet. theres not much else.

 

[Jappo]

0000 steel wool with oil. After you get it like you want it. It will not remove the blue. Degrease the area and cold blue. Do the whole area so as to blend it in.
I've used this method and it works good. If the scratches are deep, you will have to sand them down to get them out. I've had some so deep I had to draw file it. Again do the whole area.

 

[Jappo]

if you want like new appearance I can only think of sanding down the scratches and rebluing. My Uberti Walker was in great mechanical condition but the finish was flawed. I stripped all the bluing, left the cylinder white like originals, then cold blued the rest. My cold bluing job is not professional and gives the gun a worn but cared for look. Anyway I like it.

That looks good to me. Good job. All you need in the box is the tool.

 

[lone pine]

great job on the walker.

 

[kh54]

That looks good to me. Good job. All you need in the box is the tool.

You mean the wrench in the lower left corner? BTW, I posted about this case and what I was trying to accomplish some time ago: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/asm-walker-presentation-case.131803/

 

[Jappo]

You mean the wrench in the lower left corner? BTW, I posted about this case and what I was trying to accomplish some time ago: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/asm-walker-presentation-case.131803/

Oh ok, I see it now.

 

[Phil Coffins]

You ought to look that holster over carefully, hard for me to see a brass rivet doing that damage.

 

[Whitworth]

You ought to look that holster over carefully, hard for me to see a brass rivet doing that damage.

I'm with Phil, take a magnet and check to see if it's not a brass plated steel rivet. No way brass can scratch steel.

 

[M. De Land]

I accidentally scratched my 3rd model model putting it into a horse holster that had a bare brass rivet on the inside. can anyone offer realistic suggestions for polishing this out? thanks
lp

IF the rivet is brass then you may only have a mar not a scratch. May want to duplicate the mar on a trial blue surface and apply some chemical brass remover (Brasso) before use on your gun.

 

[nick_1]

Brass did not do that. Figuer out what the culprit is in the holster. Fix that. then carry and holster that rig daily. In a year or so that scratch will mostly blend in with all the other character wear marks

 

[Jay Templin]

I'm with Phil, take a magnet and check to see if it's not a brass plated steel rivet. No way brass can scratch steel.

It’s getting harder to find solid brass or copper hardware! I’ve had pretty good luck with Weaver Leather. Most places are selling plated steel or plated mystery metal.
Jay

 

[lone pine]

well you're all correct. it wasn't brass. now i have to go back and figure out how it got boogered up. thx for replies.
lp

 

[M. De Land]

0000 steel wool with oil. After you get it like you want it. It will not remove the blue. Degrease the area and cold blue. Do the whole area so as to blend it in.
I've used this method and it works good. If the scratches are deep, you will have to sand them down to get them out. I've had some so deep I had to draw file it. Again do the whole area.

Oh, I see it now, missed the picture some how. I'm wondering why the gall would be in that direction from holster use, seems like it would be length wise. Looks like that's going to require some draw filing, flat sanding and re-bluing.

 

[lone pine]

Yes you're right. Can't yet figure out how it happened. I'm taking it to the smith to see what he can do. don't trust my filing skills.

 

[Dexterado]

You could try some automotive scratch remover like you’d get at O’Reilly, but those look pretty deep. No matter what, you’ll have to do some cold bluing. That’s a bummer that happened.

 

[M. De Land]

You could try some automotive scratch remover like you’d get at O’Reilly, but those look pretty deep. No matter what, you’ll have to do some cold bluing. That’s a bummer that happened.

Cold blue will never match very well or be as tough as the original. One of the best cold blues I use is Oxfo blue by Brownell's but it will not be as dark or durable as the original factory blue. You will most likely have to use something like Niedners rust blue that will get a real bite and require carding and boiling if you don't strip it down and start all over to get a match
Early on when I got done with gun school I set up hot chemical bluing tanks and used Brownell's bluing salts with good success and that is the bluing method used on reproductions but I hated the mess and switched to the old Niedner rust blue method. It looks and lasts much better than any hot chemical blue but is labor intensive and time consuming. I'm thinking you can get a pretty good match with this process and it will last if you can find some one local who still does it.