sewing blanket wool

[Highlander73]

cut up a thin wool blanket today to make a blanket shirt...but I'm not sure how to sew it. what kinda seams do I use and what kinda stitchin' would I needa do ??? Are these 18th Century PC ?
Highlander

 

[skunkskinner]

Hope this can help you.

 

[ameling]

A blanket is a fairly loose weave. And when they make a blanket, they wrap the wool threads around on each side so that it has a finished edge on each side that won't pull out. But if you look at the top and bottom, you will see that they have "bound" those edges to keep it from un-raveling. So when you cut and sew it, you need to "bind" those new cut/sewn edges so that the threads don't pull out. That picture of stitching seams shows several methods.

As to a "blanket shirt" being PC for the 18th century, well .... that's one of those nasty "can of worms" debates. Many people desperately want it to be correct, but proper documentation is a bit lacking. And a lot of what people have brought up as possible documentation depends too much on a modern definition of an old word or phrase instead of how that word/phrase was defined back then. Then the debate moves on the the type/weave of material use - wool clothe vs. blanket. And to the shape/style of construction.

That simple boxy cut wool shirt made from a blanket is generally attributed to the early 1800's - Western Fur Trade. Just as that squarish boxy "bathrobe" style capote shows up mostly in that early/mid 1800's.

In general, if you want a wool shirt for the 18th century, make it out of wool clothe instead of a blanket (different weave and thickness), and cut/sew it up following the same pattern as a regular shirt for that specific time period in the 18th century.

But others will disagree with this advice. As I said, one of those nasty can-o-worms issues.

Just my humble opinions to share, and best used in conjunction with your own research.

Mikey - yee ol' grumpy German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands

p.s. There are people who would never even think about carrying their Hawkin's Gun at a Rev War event, but will wear that Rocky Mountain Fur Trade era blanket shirt or capote at that Rev War event - and can't understand why there should be any problem doing that! They just can't understand that the definition of those terms changed over the years. What those terms referred to in the 1770's changed a lot in shape/style up to the 1830's - just as their "gun" did.

 

[crockett]

Use either the blanket stitch or the buttonhole stitch. You can put in two rows of the blanket stitch with the second row at an angle to create sort of a triangle pattern on the edge. This ought to work fine, especially to prevent the unraveling of the wool. You could also do a running or saddle stitch along the base of the blanlet stitch.

Lots of stitching....

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

What abut 'period' clothes like that early 17th/18th century blanket coat? They left the edges cut ... so I did too. Does this mean it'll wear away that uch faster from use ... ??

 

[Highlander73]

Yeah the stitchin diagram works great. As far as correctness Ive found a few references and I do know that terms changed over the period of a hundred years or so. . .
Sorta doin this out of necessity pretty much, the last shoot I went to the wind cut through the rifle frock and the other two layers I had on.
High

 

[Rod Lassey]

I sewed my capot just like any other cloth, it's just thicker is all. I'd try and stay away from those highly visible exterior X stitches that seem to be so popular on "western" style capotes, and keep the stitches on the interior.

Mike, I'd say those boxy bathrobe blanket coats are mid to late 1800s at best. The earlier you go, the more tailored the capot. Mine is an enlarged frock coat type pattern, with pleated rear skirt and panel back. Think of a Metis coat in wool.

Rod

 

[crockett]

I agree, a lot of capotes have no visible exterior stitches, had to be sewn inside out.

 

[Black Hand]

I'd try and stay away from those highly visible exterior X stitches that seem to be so popular on "western" style capotes, and keep the stitches on the interior.

For some unknown reason, many seem to believe that if it looks "old timey"/primitive/crudely done, then it must be period or historically correct. To me it just makes things look poorly made. No self-respecting tailor/seamstress of the era would let anything out of their hands looking like the majority of the stuff I see sewn today. Just my take on the matter. AS to a blanket shirt, they might have been made in an emergency situation, but didn't seem to be common items. Good wool (clothing weight) is a better option, sewn in a shirt pattern common to the day. A blanket was more valuable/useful as a blanket.....

 

[Runner]

Take a blanket and fold it in half. Cut a ten inch slit along the fold in the center, and then a six inch cut longways on one side. Put a button hole on one side of the 6 inch cut and on the other side of the seam in the middle of the 10 inch cut. Drop it over your head and belt at the waist in cold weather. At night, you button the 6 inch cut and then the button also goes thru the hole on the other side. Now you have your blanket back without a big hole in the middle of it to use at night. Add a small piece of oil cloth to use as a cape in wet weather.
Not saying it is period correct. It just works if you want to lighten the load by another couple of pounds.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Take a blanket and fold it in half. Cut a ten inch slit along the fold in the center, and then a six inch cut longways on one side. Put a button hole on one side of the 6 inch cut and on the other side of the seam in the middle of the 10 inch cut. Drop it over your head and belt at the waist in cold weather. At night, you button the 6 inch cut and then the button also goes thru the hole on the other side. Now you have your blanket back without a big hole in the middle of it to use at night.

I remain confused ... the 10" cut is clearly for your head, but 'where' and for what 'purpose' is the 6" cut for ? Is this for a 'fly' to relieve oneself ??

 

[Rod Lassey]

Both Miller (1837) and Kurz (1851) sketched poncho or serape type coverings, unfortunately neither elaborated on what they were made of. An old blanket MAY be a reasonable assumption. Well worth some more research.

Rod

 

[Runner]

Just a little relief so getting it over your head is easier. Imagine a T with a button at the top of the leg.

 

[Russianblood]

Yeah the stitchin diagram works great. As far as correctness Ive found a few references and I do know that terms changed over the period of a hundred years or so. . .
Sorta doin this out of necessity pretty much, the last shoot I went to the wind cut through the rifle frock and the other two layers I had on.
High

A blanket shirt won't stop the wind either. It's too loose knit. I have an oilcloth frock from Tentsmith that stops all wind. I wore it under my blanket coat during deer season in Michigan and I stayed toasty warm, even in the wind.