shaping horns

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Len Graves

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I have just started another horn and was wondering if anyone has an easier way of shaping the large end. I have always boiled the horn and then forced the open end over a form (wooden cone) until cool. Is there anything I could put in the water to help? Or a completely different method? Len Graves
 
Another method is to boil the base briefly in oil. Please refer to the Sibley book on constructing powder horns before you put your horn in oil. Another is the use of a hot air stripping gun. Once again the use of either of these methods can do irrepairable damage to a horn if done wrong. refer to the Sibley book.
 
Boiling in oil is quicker and the horn will retain the shape better. However you can scorch the horn if you leave it in for more than a few seconds. A hot air gun works well and is what I am currently using.
Scott
 
If you use the cooking oil method, no hotter than 325, and dont trust the temp setting on a fryer, you'll need an external candy thermometer, as has been said, be careful of how long you leave it in, a little at a time is better than letting it fry to horn chips!
 
Thank you gentlemen. I will try to get a copy of the Sibley book, probably should have had it any way. The last time I boiled a horn I did it in the kitchen. Needless to say the aroma was not what my wife likes ( nor I) in the house. Is there oil residue on/in the horn after heating? Even though I peg the butt plug in place I like to epoxy also.
 
Len , rather than epoxy to seal the end , try some old fashion glue . when using a file on your horn , save the shavings/dust . Combine this with HOT beeswax . It will set like epoxy .
You need more dust than wax .
To experiment with this , take a piece of steel and heat it with a torch from the bottom ,while the ground horn is on top .It will cook and brown , once cool try prying it off the steel .
 
Len, after the horn has cooled and set, just wish it in warm water and dish soap, rinse with warm water, insert the sizer and let it dry completely before continuig, usually overnight, epoxy will hold then no problem,
 
I use a PC hide glue to hold the plugs in my horns. Made from gorillas... :wink:
Scott
 
Thanks again guys. I should have waited and looked through the following pages. The answer to my question was there also. The only problem with the gorilla glue is that I need the horn I am making to hunt the gorillas. Season is real short here in Mi. I have located Sibley's book and will look for some design ideas there. thanks again Len
 
len

I've built and sold several horns over the last few years, and in that time I have experimented with various different ways of setting the plugs. the simplest way to set a circular plug,whether it is flat or rounded is to use a cloth measuring tape and measure the diameter of the base of the horn, convert it to decimel, divide by 3.14 (pie) then divide by 2. You now have the required radius for your compass. Cut the wood. If you prefer to have the edge of the horn show rasp off the thickness of the horn then Taper the plug 10 to 20 degrees, file it smooth. I then boil a pot of water with the horn setting in the water for 15 to 30 minutes depending on thick the horn is. throw the plug in for about 5 minutes just to get it soaked
I then pull both out of the water and with a LIGHTWEIGHT wooden mallet set the plug into the horn and start tapping it in to place. If you did not take off the extra wood for the horn thickness, the plug will not set flush with the base. thats okay, this is where the wood rasps come in to play after the horn dries. the horn will shrink up onto the wood and in most cases you will not be able to pull the plug out. Just set your pins through the horn into the wood. You won't need glue either. After all the carving, scrimshaw, and staining I'm ready to seal my horns
I melt beeswax candle onto the wood and horn. then with a small butane torch I pass it over the wax, focusing on the seam between the plug and horn. ALWAYS keep the torch moving, never let it linger in one spot You can easily burn the horn! capillary action will pull the wax into the seam and seal the joint. A candle will work as well as the torch, but I'm kinda impatient. Hand rub the horn with a cotton cloth to wipe off excess wax and your set.
 
A few years ago when I made my first horn, I remember reading another hornsmith's opinion on the use of hide and epoxy glues for the sealing of the large butt plugs. If properly fit, the plug could be fixed in place with wooden pegs and sealed with beeswax. The idea of permanently fixing a plug in place with such glues might serve to make the horn a grenade should it be too close to hot sparks or open flame. Just something to think about when building horns. :hmm:
 
Hmmm, a properly fit plug will have close to 100% bearing on the walls of the horn. Secured with pegs or nails, sealed with bees wax and bits of powder filtering down into the inside edges will probably hold the plug in as well as glue. I don't think it will make any difference if sparks get into the throat and ignite the powder. You'll still have a bomb.
Scott
 
Weeping Wolf said:
A few years ago when I made my first horn, I remember reading another hornsmith's opinion on the use of hide and epoxy glues for the sealing of the large butt plugs. If properly fit, the plug could be fixed in place with wooden pegs and sealed with beeswax. The idea of permanently fixing a plug in place with such glues might serve to make the horn a grenade should it be too close to hot sparks or open flame. Just something to think about when building horns. :hmm:
This might or may not be so, but I think this one can chalk it up to another 'SOMETHING NEW TO WORRY ABOUT"!

It's like the fear that was going around about iron nails used in securing base plugs was dangerous because of the possibilies of Static Electricity....

Be it Bee's wax or Monkey Glue..or whatever! There's always a one in a million chance of an accident happening with anything in life!

MURPHYS LAW is always a factor in life,I guess!
 
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