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Sharps carbine

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I tried Black MZ in my carbine with the Hahn tubes and RWS musket caps with not great success. By using a nipple primer (a great tool BTW) I finally got fairly constant ignition, but what a PITA. I just went back to real Gunpowder and leave the BMZ to my percussion guns or when the conversion cylinder is installed in the unmentionable loading system powder containers..
Your mileage may, of course, vary so try it.
Hold center
Bunk

I’d about bet the issue was Black MZ. Use the holy black and it will probably be fine. I shoot a Sharps in competition and it lives up to “Ole Reliable”. Load is 45g 3f Old E, RWS caps.
 
go with HAHN'S and never look back! you won't retreat it. none better!
 
I’d about bet the issue was Black MZ. Use the holy black and it will probably be fine. I shoot a Sharps in competition and it lives up to “Ole Reliable”. Load is 45g 3f Old E, RWS caps.
Dave you are correct. With real Gunpowder it is a fun gun to shoot and works every time..
What bullet do you use?
Bunk
 
I had Charlie install a taller front sight on my Shilo carbine and while talking with him sometime after he recommended I replace my rear sight with their semibuckhorn one. I did, literally took a minute to change, and the improvement in sight picture was incredible. The complete rear sight was $65 and I got it in just a few days.

https://shilohrifle.com/sights/buckhorn-barrel-sight/semi-buckhorn/
 
Dave you are correct. With real Gunpowder it is a fun gun to shoot and works every time..
What bullet do you use?
Bunk
I'm using one designed for Charlie's tubes. Oldfoxtrader from Tennessee made the mold but his website is now offline. Last time I spoke with him he was considering selling the business due to health reasons. I'd contact Moose Molds and ask them if they make one for Charlie's tubes.
 
Thanks to all for your feedback . You guys are really helpful. I spoke with Charlie. I’m just waiting for delivery from DGW!
 
You've received some excellent advice so far. I'd like to add a couple of more points based on my experiences shooting a Sharps carbine.
1. Please stay away from the black powder substitutes, especially Pyrodex. It is a perchlorate based powder that will corrode the bore of your barrel.
2. Rolling paper cartridges is fun once you get the hang of it. There are many videos on Youtube that will show you how. There are two ways to roll cartridges for the Sharps. My advice is to use the more modern technique that fits entirely in the chamber and does not get sheared off by the breechblock. As you probably know the rear of original cartridges were cut off to expose the powder when the breechblock was raised. This resulted in a mess of loose powder around the breech. Some original Sharps have cracked forearms because enough loose powder accumulated under for forearm to detonate when the rifle was fired. Also, if for some reason you have to unload the carbine without firing it, it's much easier to just tap out an intact cartridge. Either buy the cardboard tubes or roll your own from paper and then insert a thin piece of tissue to close the bottom of the tube. The cap burns through the paper instantly so there's no need to have exposed powder. Not quite "authentic" but it's safer and cleaner.
3. FWIW, I have found that 2F powder works fine in my rifle. There are some who say the pressure level generated by 2F is better suited to the Conant gas seal system than 3F. I don't know if that's true, but I switched to 2F from 3F several years ago and never looked back.

Have fun!
 
Yes. I will PM you
Again , thanks ...
I plan on using paper cartridges that fit flush with the breech plate rather than getting cut off.
I make paper cartridges with the capandball former for my Remington NMA .44 out of hair curler paper . This paper works well in the revolver because it drops into the chamber and the ball is forced in place by the rammer.
However I can’t see how that paper would be strong enough to seat the bullet in a Sharps because it seems I would have to apply some force from at the rear of the cartridge to get it to seat properly . Also it seems the paper that is glued around the bullet would tear off from the pressure .
I understand that the Hahn tubes are thicker paper and attach to the ringtail rather than the wider sides of the bullet but I am curious if anyone has luck with hair curler flush fitting paper cartridges .
 
I used curler papers and glued on bullets (elmers glue stick) and never had a problem with tearing. The chamber walls apparently keep everything together when pushing the bullet home.
 
Charlie Hahn is good folks, call him or use the contact form on his site. He can be very helpful and can advise you on which length tubes you need.

Call Jackie for the caps and powder, another good folks. He ships several times a week and knows all the laws.
540-888-3349 Back Creek Gun Shop, Winchester Va - Black Powder & Musket Caps - Goex, Swiss, & Schuetzen black powder, musket & pistol caps, lube, patches. N-SSA

Stay away from black powder subs, use RWS caps and throw away the nipple primer.

As long as your Sharps is tight you can probably get along without the breech mod but it's something you will eventually want.
Howdy there hawkeye2,
What do you have against the nipple primer? My use is to dry out the fire path on the Sharps quickly using a shot or two of FFFFg and ignited with a CCI musket C(r)ap saving the good RWS caps for shooting live cartridges
You are 100% correct on using Pyrodex and heavens forbid 777. The BMZ was a three cartridge trial that did not work for me. The barrel was immediately cleaned and shooting went back to real Gunpowder (like it says on the DuPont can).
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk
 
Sharps Shooters,
For a practice and can rolling load 30 grains FFFg in a hand rolled tube with a ball works wonders and seems to be pretty accurate..
I put a big glob of lard in the front end of the tube to keep fouling soft and it seems to do that quite well.
To cut down on cost and to save the good RWS caps I use CCI caps and a bit of powder in the cone with a nipple primer. Unfortunately I bought a bunch of those worthless CCI pooper poppers but they ignite OK for this.
Also a ball uses a lot less lead that a 415 grain ring tail. A lot less recoil also.
Slowly getting the Sharps dialed in guys slow but sure.
Yr' Obt' Svt'
Bunk
 
I'm using one designed for Charlie's tubes. Oldfoxtrader from Tennessee made the mold but his website is now offline. Last time I spoke with him he was considering selling the business due to health reasons. I'd contact Moose Molds and ask them if they make one for Charlie's tubes.
Moose does make ringtail bullet and I have one of their molds. Well made and casts a beautiful bullet.
Just a satisfied customer not a sponsor.
Bunk
 
Moose does make ringtail bullet and I have one of their molds. Well made and casts a beautiful bullet.
Just a satisfied customer not a sponsor.
Bunk

From what I’ve been able to find out, Moose doesn’t make a mold for use with Charlie’s tubes. It might be a special order thing.
 
From what I’ve been able to find out, Moose doesn’t make a mold for use with Charlie’s tubes. It might be a special order thing.
Go to his website
https://moosemoulds.wixsite.com/mm2013/productsthey are well made and cast fast with big aluminum blocks that heat fast and hold the heat.. For ring tail bullet moulds I think he is the only game in town. They do fit the Hahn tube nicely I loaded and shot some last week.
Hold Center
Bunk
 
OK settled on the Mables Bullseye. Now exactly what front sight should I get? They all look the same. Thanks
Cap I will check mine it is a white bead from sight.
Measurements and perhaps the Brownell's number if I can find iy..
Good choice for a rear sight.
Bunk
 
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