3f is fine for live fire. There is a large number of North South Skirmish competitors that use nothing but 3f in all their competition guns. I use it even in my 69cal smoothbore.
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Sharps carbine
- Thread starter Captndan
- Start date
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3f is fine for live fire. There is a large number of North South Skirmish competitors that use nothing but 3f in all their competition guns. I use it even in my 69cal smoothbore.
My proof reading is lousy
the glued in wad goes OVER the powder to hold it where the cap flame can ignite it. That also helps spit the tube and expel it from the bore.
Sorry about that gang
Bunk
for what it is worth for Sharps shooters.
Paper cartridges for the Sharps use a LOT of powder and lead. This method works for me in my gun that has the Hahn conversion.
It may work with your Sharps
Drop a round ball in the chamber and measure how long a tube needs to be. See the "Muskets Matters" video for information on this.
Using the Hahn tube i simply glue a short extension to get the proper head space for ignition.
30 grains of FFFg over a wad glued in the tube keeps the powder in place.
The remaining space is filled with a goodly glob of Crisco or lard to keep fouling soft.
This is a great load for off hand practice at 50 yards for target work. Economical of powder and lead, almost no recoil big bang lots of smoke.
Works for me YMMV
Molon Labe
Bunk
[/QUOTE]
the glued in wad goes OVER the powder to hold it where the cap flame can ignite it. That also helps spit the tube and expel it from the bore.
Sorry about that gang
Bunk
for what it is worth for Sharps shooters.
Paper cartridges for the Sharps use a LOT of powder and lead. This method works for me in my gun that has the Hahn conversion.
It may work with your Sharps
Drop a round ball in the chamber and measure how long a tube needs to be. See the "Muskets Matters" video for information on this.
Using the Hahn tube i simply glue a short extension to get the proper head space for ignition.
30 grains of FFFg over a wad glued in the tube keeps the powder in place.
The remaining space is filled with a goodly glob of Crisco or lard to keep fouling soft.
This is a great load for off hand practice at 50 yards for target work. Economical of powder and lead, almost no recoil big bang lots of smoke.
Works for me YMMV
Molon Labe
Bunk
[/QUOTE]
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Got a call from Charlie. My carbine is done and on the way home. YIPPEE! Just to clarify I use FFg in the Hahn tubes and the flinter. FFFg for priming the pan. Never had a misfire in the carbine after switching to RWS 1081.
Great .... will be interested to hear your feedback ... I’m waiting on the tubes. I figure I’ll shoot it a bit to see what the problem is .
When I set the bullet in to measure for the tubes , it really didn’t settle in much even when I pushed with a dowel. I got Swiss 2F & Schuetzen caps ... I also am ready to give it a try .
I broke the tool that came with my Pedersoli Sharps Carbine that is used to remove the plug that allows the percussion spark to set off the powder.
I don’t know what the round brass piece with the 3 small holes is called but I would like to get it out to grease the threads before I shoot the gun .
Dixie said they will send me a replacement tool but I will just be back where I started and maybe ready the break the second tool trying to remove the plug.
I’m tempted to try to use a channel lock pliers on it maybe with cloth covering the piece in hopes of not chewing it up.
I’ve held back and thought I’d see if anyone here has thoughts on what I can do.
the gun is brand new and never been shot .
I don’t know what the round brass piece with the 3 small holes is called but I would like to get it out to grease the threads before I shoot the gun .
Dixie said they will send me a replacement tool but I will just be back where I started and maybe ready the break the second tool trying to remove the plug.
I’m tempted to try to use a channel lock pliers on it maybe with cloth covering the piece in hopes of not chewing it up.
I’ve held back and thought I’d see if anyone here has thoughts on what I can do.
the gun is brand new and never been shot .
If you have already broken your ignition vent removal tool why would you think using pump pliers on it is a good idea? No matter what you pad the jaws with it will run the risk of chewing it up and that's if you can get the pliers on at a right angle for a good grip.
"SHARPS PERCUSSION RIFLES WITH REPLACEABLE IGNITION VENT HOLE The breech block of the Sharps Percussion Rifles now comes with a replaceable ignition vent hole (see part X in picture 13) and the proper wrench to disassemble it (see Y in picture 14)."
"WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE OR REPLACE THE IGNITION VENT HOLE UNIT, THIS SHOULD ONLY BE DONE BY A QUALIFIED GUNSMITH THAT KNOWS PEDERSOLI FIREARMS. Pg. 14 of the manual that comes with the gun.
"SHARPS PERCUSSION RIFLES WITH REPLACEABLE IGNITION VENT HOLE The breech block of the Sharps Percussion Rifles now comes with a replaceable ignition vent hole (see part X in picture 13) and the proper wrench to disassemble it (see Y in picture 14)."
"WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE OR REPLACE THE IGNITION VENT HOLE UNIT, THIS SHOULD ONLY BE DONE BY A QUALIFIED GUNSMITH THAT KNOWS PEDERSOLI FIREARMS. Pg. 14 of the manual that comes with the gun.
I didn’t say I thought it was a good idea only that I was tempted to try doing it.
I wrote here instead of trying that.
My gun did not come with a Sharps specific manual like what you printed above.
I got the same generic manual with
the Sharps that came with my Pedersoli Coach Gun however I did find one for the Sharps on the Taylor’s website but it is for a model with 3 O rings rather than the single O ring mine has.
I did read that section of the manual online and sadly I forgot all about it.
So I guess taking that part out and greasing the threads before use is a bad idea now that I see this manual.
I guess Sharps rifles and double barrel shotguns have a lot in common to use the same instructions. 
Wouldn't it be wonderful if they would write a dedicated manual for each model and sent it with the gun.
Wouldn't it be wonderful if they would write a dedicated manual for each model and sent it with the gun.A warning note saying DO NOT TRY TO USE THE VENT HOLE TOOL WE GAVE YOU ON THE VENT HOLE could have been helpful!
Having looked around further , I saw where someone was having trouble and noticed his vent hole unit turned a bit . He figured out that the clean out screw also works like a set screw to hold the vent hole unit in the proper position so the fire channel gets to the powder. Since my clean out screw was still in place , that’s probably why the tool couldn’t move the vent hole unit.
I blew air through the nipple and it comes out the vent hole so I guess the channel is open to the powder which is good. So I think I lost the tool but gained some information.
Having had a lot of difficulty removing nipples that had not been coated with anti seize grease it seemed like greasing the vent hole unit threads made sense since cleaning the block is so crucial with the Sharps from all I’ve read.
Having looked around further , I saw where someone was having trouble and noticed his vent hole unit turned a bit . He figured out that the clean out screw also works like a set screw to hold the vent hole unit in the proper position so the fire channel gets to the powder. Since my clean out screw was still in place , that’s probably why the tool couldn’t move the vent hole unit.
I blew air through the nipple and it comes out the vent hole so I guess the channel is open to the powder which is good. So I think I lost the tool but gained some information.
Having had a lot of difficulty removing nipples that had not been coated with anti seize grease it seemed like greasing the vent hole unit threads made sense since cleaning the block is so crucial with the Sharps from all I’ve read.
the Sharps has a fire path long as a well rope.
My first couple of shots always have the nipple primed with a bit of FFFFg to dry and clear the path'
And use a good hot cap like the RWS musket cap. Those CCI weakcaps work in my Smith but the fire path there is short.
Good luck once you get it shooting you will love it. Be sure to put a never size compound on the nipple threads, the clean out screw and every thread around the breech block.
Hold Center
Bunk
My first couple of shots always have the nipple primed with a bit of FFFFg to dry and clear the path'
And use a good hot cap like the RWS musket cap. Those CCI weakcaps work in my Smith but the fire path there is short.
Good luck once you get it shooting you will love it. Be sure to put a never size compound on the nipple threads, the clean out screw and every thread around the breech block.
Hold Center
Bunk
I finally shot my new Sharps Carbine today. Thanks to everyone for the great feedback , particularly Charlie Hahn.
I used his tubes and suggestions and had a flawless ( for my first time with the gun) experience.
I only shot 15 rounds because I wasn’t sure about the load size and didn’t want to over build a wrong load. I had no gassing issues and I could have gotten a few more rounds through before giving the block some attention. At 50 yards I was mostly on paper . I just need to focus a bit more ...it Tended to shoot high & to the a left a bit . The gun is all clean and ready for further use.
After months hemming and hawing about weather I should buy the gun then waiting a month for Dixie to ship and getting bullets , tubes , powder , caps etc ... it was really a great experience to actually shoot it!
Good evening Captndan.,
I checked my gun and my front fight is a Marble 1/16" ivory bead and is either a 53W or 57W and I suspect the 57W would work The blade is, as close as I can measure, mikes 0.613" the w57 blade is 0.570"
Brownell's stock# for that sight is 576 105 732AV . and is the 1/16" bead.
I might make a suggestion is make a "L" shaped piece of brass shim stock or a piece of a brass unmentionable case for a front sight taped to the barel and by measuring the bent end after shooting you can get some kind of an idea of how high the blade will need to be to work.
They come in blades numbered 45W .450" 50W .500" and .53W 538" .
Marble makes both the ivory bead and brass bead and a glow bead that last kind would look strange on a Sharps
I was lucky I just stuck a tall sight on and wonder of wonders I was hitting the 50 yard 18" gong a little low with the rear sight all the way down.
Calculating sight adjustment
take the sight radius in inches and divide that by the range in inches and the result will be the amount to move the bullet strike for one inch at that distance I hope this helps.
Sorry to go on so long but this is hard to explain with out pictures..
Hold center
Bunk
Ccorrection aftr about 40 shoys I find those CCI caps SOME TIME work in my Smith. They work every time with the nipple primed with FFFFg but why bother. I use the CCI caps to dry the fire path otherwise they are useless.
Bunk
Someone here mentioned use of an automotive tool from NAPA, BK 7769248, to release a stuck chamber sleeve . I did pick one up but it won’t fit into the sleeve. I’m hoping whoever posted about it can give me a big of guidance .
I did get the replacement vent hole unit removal tool and it’s a good thing . It really gets gunked up in there & while I guess the channel can be cleaned from the clean out screw & nipple , I got a lot more stuff out by using that tool. I certainly would not want to leave it in if it’s possible to remove the vent unit.
Crow-Feather
32 Cal.
For the Hahn's tubes, you need a Hahn's device. They work extremely well. Before I got the Hahn's device, I soaked paper in stump killer (potassium nitrate) and rolled it into a tube, and glued it. Tied it to my bullet then glued the back of the tube so that the tube was just a bit longer than the chamber with the bullet inserted. The block would cut the back of the bullet, and the nitrated paper would burn up. The hard part for me was that the 1859 was not like the cartridge Sharps. You can have loose powder in the chamber.
I did manage to get Hahn’s tubes and they work great . They are so convenient to bring to the range ... they’ve worked flawlessly . I have to get my sight right or a better one next.
Ron
Rip, if you will look at a post I made to Captdan a couple of lines up there is the information on my Sharps. There is a thread somewhere around here on "Bullseye sight" that has a picture of the Marble Bullseye rear sight.
I doubt it would be approved for N-SSA but makes a great target or hunting sight.
Hold Center
Hit Center
That is the idea
Bunk
Crow-Feather
32 Cal.
Are you talking about the brass cartridge case type or the cardboard paper type? I have looked everywhere on the net for that size cardboard tube without success.
Crow-Feather
32 Cal.
I have a puller for the metal sealing device should it get stuck in the chamber. I will send it to you if you'll pay for shipping. send me a pm if you want it. It is not necessary if you have the Hahn's device.
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