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Razorx

32 Cal.
Joined
Nov 8, 2007
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Hey Everyone,

Just thought I would get some opions on supplies I am going to need. I just got a David Pedersoli 12ga ultra lite. Have been making a list of things I am going to need but thought I see if I missed something. Here is what I have so for:

-#11 caps
-12ga shot cups
-#6 steel shot(other opions welcome, plan on upland and waterfowl hunting)
-overshot/overpowder cards
-wads
-nipple pick
-cleaning brushes
-powder flask
-powder measure
-powder
-capping tool

Thanks for any imput on supplies. I know that I missed a few needed items.

Nolan
 
Razorx said:
Hey Everyone,

Just thought I would get some opions on supplies I am going to need. I just got a David Pedersoli 12ga ultra lite. Have been making a list of things I am going to need but thought I see if I missed something. Here is what I have so for:

-#11 caps
-12ga shot cups
-#6 steel shot(other opions welcome, plan on upland and waterfowl hunting)
-overshot/overpowder cards
-wads
-nipple pick
-cleaning brushes
-powder flask
-powder measure
-powder
-capping tool

Thanks for any imput on supplies. I know that I missed a few needed items.

Nolan

I believe the #6 steel is way too light...that's actually like shooting lead #8's compared to even a modern shotgun shell, if you normally would have used lead #6s in a modern shell, when you switch to steel you need to drop down two sizes, ie: #4s.

Then...since you'll be using a muzzleloader with lower velocity than a modern duck/goose load, the rule of thumb is to drop down another size...ie: #2's...which leaves a very, very low pellet count.

So, while expensive, I'd recommend you reconsider the steel and use bismuth shot which matches lead in performance...so you can use 6's / 5'...the good news is that you probably won't shoot a lot of it like you would if you were trap/skeet shooting
 
I recommend using #5 lead shot for upland game. You are in a good pheasant and rabbit state, and you do have some rufted grouse, too. Take a look at The Track of the Wolf's website catalogue to familiarize yourself with available wads. I do not recommend using shot cups with lead shot. You will need special heavy shot cups for the Bismuth or Steel shot for goose hunting, and that is best bought through Ballistic's Products. But compare other suppliers on prices. I know that Ballistics Products came out with the heavy gauge plastic wads to protect barrels from steel shot, and have lead the way.

Use FFFg Goex Black Powder in that gun. Buy a couple of extra nipples for replacing those on the gun, Just in Case! I don't recall you listing a nipple wrench, or a wire to clear the nipples, or pipe cleaners to clean the flash channel, but you will need them. If you buy an Adjustable Powder Measure with the attached funnel, like sold by Track, and made by Tedd Cash Products, there is a wire in the bottom of the measure, attached to the knurled screw head, that can be used for this purpose. Sometimes you do get crud stuck in the nipple, and that can stop that barrel from firing until you clear it out. If you carry the wire with you, you can clear the nipple right then, and go on shooting.

Measure the Inside bore diameter of both barrels with a caliper, to be sure just exactly what diameter you have, before ordering Wads. If you buy cushion wads, you will find, as most of us have, that spliting those cushion wads in half or thirds, provides enough surface to lube with a liquid lubricant, ( moosemilk, or olive oil) while keep the weight of the wad low enough that it does not follow the shot column and bump it, in midair, causing a hole to appear in the center of the pattern. Using the full !/2 " cushion wad soaked in any fluid will generally cause the " donut hole " patterns. Since you have two barrels to load, simply split the lubed cushion wad, and put one half in each barrel.

You might try looking back many months for Jim Rackham's post here about using only OS cards to load his gun in the field. He puts off center holes in the OS cards, using an awl, before the hunt, and only carried those wads. He uses 4 OS cards in place of the OP wad, and the cushion wad, putting the holes in the cards so they don't line up with each other, then his shot charge, and then 2 more OS cards. He finds( and I found) that using 2 os cards made sure that the shot charge in the second barrel did not move forward during recoil from firing the first barrel. Again the holes are in different locations. On leaving the barrel, the holes allow wind to separate the cards, where they fall to the ground quickly and do not follow the shot charge. This simplifies loading in the field a bunch. To Lubricate the bore, I carry pre-lubed cleaning patches in a plastic bag and run a lubed patch down the barrel on the jag when I seat the last 2 OS cards on the shot. The lube protects the bore from rusting while I wait for the next flight of birds, and softens the fouling for easy cleaning between shots. I carry cleaning patches in another pocket.

The only use I now have for my 1/8" thick OP wads is when shooting RB out of the shotgun. The cushion wads I still have are looking for a good home. 12 gauge.
 
you might want to look at a shot snake or some similar device... they make loading in the field a boatload easier. aside from that, Paul's advice is (once again) dead on.
 
was looking at ordering my wads from track. measured my barrels today. they are .69 and if I pull my caliper real sung it is.70. Which wads should I use. If I read track's website right it should be 14ga. The guy I got the gun from said the gun was not choked and he was using the following load: 90gr of FF or PyrotexRS and 1 1/4oz of #6. The only reason for my suggestion for shot cups was that I was under the imprission that if you use steel, that you need to use them. Most of the areas that I will be hunting say you need steel. I was looking at doing it the way that Tal Parmenter had in his artical about using the 12ga steel shot cups from precission reloading. I am always open to loading suppestions since I have never shot or load a 12ga black powder shotgun(don't what to take my head off :haha: )
 
If you call TrackOTW, or Circle Fly, and give them the dimensions of your bore, they will tell you the correct sized wads to buy. The wads should slightly larger than your bore diameter to provide a snug fit. 14 gauge is supposedly .693, while 13 gauge is .710. I think you will be able to use the 14 gauge wads.

As to loads, read Bob Spenser's Black Powder Notebook article, and also the article by V.M. Starr on his site.
[url] http://members.aye.net/~bspen/index.html[/url]

I believe V.M. gave some recommended loads for 14 gauge guns. My Hodgdon manual lists three loads for the 14 gauge:

2 1/2dram = 69 grains FFG, and one ounce of shot, gives 1027 FPS at the muzzle for a " Light load".

2 3/4 drams = 76 grains, and one ounce of shot giveS 1065 fps. MV, for a "Medium load.'

3 1/8 dram = 86 grains, and one and 1/8 oz. shot gives 1055 fps MV, for a " Heavy load ".

Notice that the velocity drops as you add more shot. Modern shotgun shells use the term " Magnum " to indicate that the shot load is larger than normal, not that the velocity is increased, as the term means in rifle and pistol cartridges.

I recommend you use the Light load and try various combinations of OP wads, and lubes to see what gives you the best patterns. I lube the barrel after seating the OS cards on the shot. If you try paper shot cups, or even the plastic ones, Lube the barrel so that you don't see plastic rubbing off on the barrel, where its accumulation will mess up subsequent shot patterns, just as lead build up does. The lube will also reduce the friction on paper cups, and protect the shot from rubbing through the paper and then leaving lead in the bore. Lubing the barrel gives a slight improvement ( decrease in SDV) but mostly helps the pattern stay round, by reducing the pellets that develop flats going out the barrel.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey Paul,

I hope I didn't confuss you. I looked at the barrels and it says on them that it is a 12ga but I notice that when I use my caliper it show closer to a 13 or 14 ga. Is this commen. I know that it says it is a 12ga David Pedersoli(ultra lite 5 3/4lbs)from dixie gun works. I am new so I don't want to give you guys the wrong info. I know I should call dixie and get the info on it and will tomorrow but thought I would get some imput.
 
Well, that is why its important to measure the bore. Now, does the gun have choke in the muzzle? That might explain why you are having such small measurements, if you are simply measuring the muzzle of each barrel!

The dimensions for 12 gauge is: .729"
13 gauge is: .710"
14 gauge is: .693"

Wiht a full choke barrel you may have as much as 40 points( .040" ) constriction in the barrel. Modified will have about half that amount. Some of the Pedersoli DB shotguns came with choked barrels. Take the barrels out of the stock and look at the bottom of each barrel. Along with proof marks, you should find some indication of the diameter of each tube, in millimeters. You will have to do the conversion. You should also find some indication of choke for the barrel.

If the barrels are chokes( use a truly old fashion set of calipers to measure further down inside the barrel( Inside Calipers, that have a spring loaded set of arms that are adjusted with a screw, which you put down into the barrels open the arms until they are touching the bore, and then set the screw at that place. There is a half moon flat spring over the junction of the two arms, that allows the two arms to be pinched together to bring them out of the bore while leaving the screw set in place, so that once out of the pipe, you can release the arms and then measure the distance betwen their two points to get an accurate reading of the bore diameter. The inside calipers look similar to a compass, while the outside calipers look like an old fashioned set of ice tongs for carrying large blocks of ice, or the tongs used to carry Railroad ties. Both should be available at your local hardware store, or home supply stores. They usually cost less than $10.00 each.
 
Hey Paul,

I pulled my barrels off. The only marks other then what it say on top are. kg1320 and each barrel has 183 on it the left barrle has ae after the 183. I took a couple of pictures and sent them to you hopefully you can see what it says but I am not real sure what I would be looking for.

Nolan
 
If your gun is truly a .12 ga and the bores are choked to .690(full) then you are going to have a REAL HARD TIME getting the necessary Heavy Plastic STEEL SHOT cups past the choke. If your gun is in fact .690 all the way then you will never find .14 ga steel shot cups. You only alternative would be to find som Bismuth.If it is a choked .12 you might consider having the bores reamed out some to Mod. instead of full. Then you may be able to get the plastic shot cups loaded. For steel shot you do need the Heavy plastic cups and not the standard cups like Win. AA to protect the bore, unless your bores are chrome lined. Ohh and something else ihaven't seen mentioned here, if you are shooting and only fire 1 shot be sure to take the cap off the nipple of the other barrel before reloading. :thumbsup:
 
I talked to the guy I got the gun from. It is chromed line barrels and he said that it is not choked. That is why I had to ask which wads because the digital caliper I have says it is .69-.70 and can't figure were it would say on the gun.
 
The number under the barrels, 183 is a metric measurment. Converted to inches(183 x .394=) its 72.102 inches, or 72 caliber. Use the 12 gauge wads. Your use of the calipers is faulty, but not uncommon. That is why I suggested you buy the old fashion pincher type calipers. The wads, including the heavy wads for steel shot will be a tight fit, but worth it. simply lubricate the outside of the plastic wads with bore butter, or moose snot, or crisco, and run them in. The hardest part will be getting them into the muzzle. Once they are in they should go down okay.

Sorry, I don't know what the " ae " stands for.

Wih the chrome lined bores, it should be easy to clean. Just avoid using modern nitric solvents in the bore, and dry the bore after cleaning. Leave it in the white, and don't grease it. The grease will actually help destroy the chrome over time. Left bare in a dry place, the bores will be fine.Do wipe the outside of the barrels off, along with the action, and nipples, clean the flash channels, and oil the nipple threads before puttin them back in the gun. You can use bore butter to seal the exterior of the barrels and other metal parts.
 
Hey Paul,

Thanks for the help. Atleast know I know I can start getting the right parts.

Nolan

P.S. Anbody else think of things I missed
 
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