shortening the length of pull

[Pioneer flinter]

any one know where i can send a stock to have the
length of pull shortend and have the butt plate put back on? any idea of price would be apreciated

 

[dallas10c]

The problem is that when you remove the buttplate and shorten the stock it changes the size of the end of the stock and the buttplate probably won't fit right again without some serious filing and reshaping. It will also most likely need to have the stock refinished where the buttplate meets the stock wood again.

Just something to think about...

 

[Herb]

What kind on rifle and how much do you want it shortened?

 

[Pioneer flinter]

HI HERB I HAVE A CUSTOM MADE HAWKEN .62CAL, A LYMAN
GPR .54CAL, A AUSTIN HALECK MOUNTAIN RIFLE .50CAL
AND A CVA USA MADE MOUNTAIN RIFE .50CAL. I AM NOT
VERY TALL I AM 5'5" THEY ALL ARE A LITTLE TO LONG
THE AUSTIN HALECK IS THE LONGEST IF I COULD TAKE OFF AN INCH TO AN INCH AND A HALF IT WOULD HELP ALOT I THINK I COULD DO THE METAL WORK AND STOCK
REFINISHING IF I COULD GET SOMEONE TO CUT AND FIT THE CRESENT BUTTPLATE.

 

[GreyWhiskers]

HH, an inch is a lot of stock to remove. Measure the length of pull from the trigger to the buttplate. Most will be around 14".

Like you, I'm short on one end. :thumbsup: Most of my rifles and shotguns I've shortened to 13 5/8".

Do you have a longgun that fits you well? Measure it and that may give you a benchmark. Remember tho, that other factors need to be considered like the drop of the stock.

GW

 

[Herb]

I have cut stocks of completed rifles to shorten them. You could do it yourself. I'd start with the CVA by tracing the buttplate contour on both sides of the stock with a compass (those things with a point and adjustable pencil arm for drawing circles), using the pencil to mark. Check to see how much that moves the top tang forward. You can cut that off if it looks too long. Have to cut the toe off the buttplate too. Then you have to file the buttplate sides to the slimmer stock. The toe plate can be moved or cut shorter. If all that looks like what you want, scratch a line with the point of the compass to mark the stock both sides. You can tape the off side with clear strapping tape to prevent chipping. Follow the outside of that line when cutting.

Remove the buttplate and toe plate and using a hacksaw with a new coarse blade, 18 teeth per inch, start the cut from the top down, keeping the cut perpendicular by watching the off-side cut, backing up and widening the cut to allow the blade to follow the curve. When you cut as deep as the frame allows, turn the stock over and cut from the toeline. Now really watch the off-side to keep the cut square with the butt. If the curve is so deep that you can't complete the cut, use a coping saw to finish the cut. When the piece is cut off, and the tang either cut short to match the existing inlet or the inlet cut longer, smoke up the buttplate with some yarn wadded up in a cartridge case and wet with paint thinner for a lamp. Fit the buttplate on, cutting down the high black spots with a file, sharp chisel, or scraper made from a screwdriver. Mark the new screw holes and drill for the tang screw about 1/16" forward of the hole center, to draw the tang into the wood. Rear screw goes perpendicular to the plate.

Now you need to file the sides to the wood. The edges will be thicker, so file the back of the buttplate to thin it to the edges so it looks good. If you are really careful, you can avoid having to refinish your stocks.

The Austin Hallek, I'd cut the tang off, it is very long, and maybe the toeplate. Same procedure.

The Lyman GPR, you might want to cut the toeplate, maybe not the tang. So I'd start on the cheapest and least deeply curved buttplate and by the time you get to the A&H or custom Hawken, whatever that is, you will be doing OK. If the buttplates are steel, you can heat them with a propane torch to reblue them, or use some cold blue. Same with the screw heads, which will be filed to fit after countersinking. You can put stock finish on the new cuts before final installation of the parts. Any questions?

 

[paulvallandigham]

T$he best source of information on who you can find who is competent to fit stocks would be shotgun shooters, as they rely on a properly fitted stock to substitute for a rear sight, which are found on rifles, but not most shotguns.

The length of your neck can be as important to stock fitting, as your height. Of concern are 5 different dimensions:

1. Length of pull- measured from the center of the forward-most trigger, to the middle of the butt;
2. Drop at comb- measured from a line draw along the top of the barrel down to the forward edge of the comb of the stock, just behind the wrist;
3. Drop at heel- measured from that same line to the top rear, or "heel" of the butt;
4. Pitch- measured by standing the gun with the butt on a flat surface, and the rear of the barrel being against a vertical wall. A door jam works fine for this purpose;

and 5. Cast-on or Cast off. Cast is measured from a line drawn down the middle of your barrel and the top of the stock, and represents a deviation from that centerline at the Butt of the stock of some stated distance. "Cast Off" refers to the bend of the buttstock away from a right hand shooter' s face, usually of some fraction of an inch. "Cast-On" refers to Cast put on a stock for Left handed shooters. The amount of cast is chosen as that which will better align the shooter's eye with the centerline of the stock and barrel.

Because of rear open sights, most of us can adapt to shooting a lot of variations of dimensions on rifles. Scope sights on rifles require a better fit, but I know of few riflemen who are not serious competition shooters where scope sights are used that worry about "Cast". Cast can make a huge difference when you are shooting heavy calibers with heavy loads, as it tends to move Recoil force away from your face.

Talk to other shooters, to gun builders, and to gunsmiths to find someone who knows what he is doing. Its worth the extra cost to have someone do it right. :thumbsup: Once you know your measurements, you can modify other rifles and shotguns to serve you better.

I shot with a good friend who was a champion Trap Shooter, who was born, lived, and died in Urbana, IL., but had his stocks on his shotguns changed to his dimensions by a gunsmith near Peoria, almost 100 miles West Northwest of Urbana.

I was with him when he picked up a brand-new shotgun he had never fired, that he left with the smith to change the pitch and LOP. We drove immediately to the local gun club where he broke 24 of 25 targets on his first field, then shot a couple of 25s straight on his next fields, this time shooting from the 27 yd. handicap line. He loved the new gun and how it fit him.

My gunmaker fit the stock on my fowling piece to me, with several visits to him as the stock took shape, to make adjustments and confirm them. Because its a smooth bore, he put cast-on to the stock. But, at my request he also put a rear sight on the gun for shooting RBs.

 

[BrownBear]

I have cut stocks of completed rifles to shorten them. You could do it yourself. I'd start with the CVA by tracing the buttplate contour on both sides of the stock with a compass (those things with a point and adjustable pencil arm for drawing circles), using the pencil to mark. Check to see how much that moves the top tang forward. You can cut that off if it looks too long. Have to cut the toe off the buttplate too. Then you have to file the buttplate sides to the slimmer stock. The toe plate can be moved or cut shorter. If all that looks like what you want, scratch a line with the point of the compass to mark the stock both sides. You can tape the off side with clear strapping tape to prevent chipping. Follow the outside of that line when cutting.

Remove the buttplate and toe plate and using a hacksaw with a new coarse blade, 18 teeth per inch, start the cut from the top down, keeping the cut perpendicular by watching the off-side cut, backing up and widening the cut to allow the blade to follow the curve. When you cut as deep as the frame allows, turn the stock over and cut from the toeline. Now really watch the off-side to keep the cut square with the butt. If the curve is so deep that you can't complete the cut, use a coping saw to finish the cut. When the piece is cut off, and the tang either cut short to match the existing inlet or the inlet cut longer, smoke up the buttplate with some yarn wadded up in a cartridge case and wet with paint thinner for a lamp. Fit the buttplate on, cutting down the high black spots with a file, sharp chisel, or scraper made from a screwdriver. Mark the new screw holes and drill for the tang screw about 1/16" forward of the hole center, to draw the tang into the wood. Rear screw goes perpendicular to the plate.

Now you need to file the sides to the wood. The edges will be thicker, so file the back of the buttplate to thin it to the edges so it looks good. If you are really careful, you can avoid having to refinish your stocks.

The Austin Hallek, I'd cut the tang off, it is very long, and maybe the toeplate. Same procedure.

The Lyman GPR, you might want to cut the toeplate, maybe not the tang. So I'd start on the cheapest and least deeply curved buttplate and by the time you get to the A&H or custom Hawken, whatever that is, you will be doing OK. If the buttplates are steel, you can heat them with a propane torch to reblue them, or use some cold blue. Same with the screw heads, which will be filed to fit after countersinking. You can put stock finish on the new cuts before final installation of the parts. Any questions?

That's the best write-up I've ever seen Herb. You certainly know what you're talking about, and write well to boot. I've saved this, because there are some fine points worth immortalizing.

Mods- Any way to clip his post and make it a permanent sticky? I tend to lose my bookmarks! :grin:

 

[Bill Hall]

I too think that an inch is way too much to cut off. Myself being 5'5" and 3/4 or so, depending on how I comb my hair, a length of pull at 13 5/8" fits me just right on my home built guns. If your rifles now measure around 14", not much length needs to be removed to accomplish a correct fit. I'd say that around 13 1/2" should be the shortest you would need to accomodate heavy clothing. Bill

 

[Herb]

Aw, shucks, Mr. BrownBear. You are too kind.

 

[Pioneer flinter]

once again i thank you guys you really know how to talk a guy through i have done alot of repairs on
my ml's in the past but cutting a stock for a cresent buttplate scares me to death you make it sound easier, not easy, but easier thank you guys
once again GOOD HUNTING AND GOD BLESS

 

[paulvallandigham]

I cut back a stock for a friend of mine years ago, who was/is only about 5'5" tall. He also has a barrel chest, and a shorter neck. This gun was a suppository rifle, with a scope mounted on it. I cut the stock down to 12 1/2" LOP and then put a 1"+ recoil pad on the butt to help him deal with the .30 cal. recoil. I then refinished the wood stock with a hand-rubbed oil finish. He didn't recognize his gun at first. But, at my insistence, he closed his eyes and mounted the gun to his shoulder and cheekbone. I then had him open his eyes while I was looking at him down the muzzle of the gun. his eye was centered in the scope, and the scope was set at the right eye relief for him to see me, and any target instantly, thru the scope. I had him repeat the exercise several times, watching what he did and didn't do.

I was very lucky, as he had done what I asked him to do when I was taking his measurements, and the stock fit him like a glove. [I did remove about 3/8" off the toe of the stock to give him more pitch to accommodate his barrel chest.] He had been in the U.S. army stationed in Germany during the late 60s, and had been trained to shoot the M-1 rifle, the M-1 carbine, and the .45 Colt pistol. That was the extent of his firearms knowledge and training. The scoped rifle I worked on was the first such rifle he owned.

I think a 13 1/2" LOP to a 13 5/8" LOP will work for this poster, provided the rest of the stock measurements fit him as well. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: