shorty remington

[freekforge]

Here is a 3 5/8" remington that i am making. i have a question though how should i attach the front sight? like Mike B. (duelist1954) did where he took the old sight along with the top flat and silver solder it on or should i dovetail it a new sight? Is one way better than the other?

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[necchi]

A front sight won't do ya any good, :wink:

 

[freekforge]

yeah i wont be needin one shootin under the poker table but it looks kinda weird without one

 

[necchi]

I'd just drill a hole and mount a post. The thing is they get in the way when a revolver is holstered

 

[Flash Pan Dan]

I would dovetail it in as in the Remington-Beals. Belly guns can be quite accurate so I would definably put a front sight on it.

 

[freekforge]

anybody have a guesstimate of how tall i should start with the front sight? and does anybody have any ideas of things to do to it to make it even cooler

 

[Little Wattsy]

Think dental crown. Drill hole for a post, solder a blade onto a post, and solder-set it in the post hole.

 

[freekforge]

I am thinking about doing it that way and using some type of coin for the blade

 

[Little Wattsy]

I am thinking about doing it that way and using some type of coin for the blade

That would be cool! For a few dollars you could get a date accurate nickle...

 

[Archie]

Install a plade or post that you know is too tall and then file it down to match your load point of impact at the desired range. Very nice tooking piece.

 

[Col. Batguano]

if a coin, use a silver 3 cent piece. It's the smallest coin the US ever minted, and quite unique.

 

[M. De Land]

My advise would be ramp and partridge profile of some type. You are probably going to need quite a bit of elevation that close to the receiver to level it out with the U cut in the top strap.
I usually make ramps of one piece bar stock and use a screw or two to install them.
A barrel dovetail is an elegant and high end procedure for a one piece sight insert.
I also usually face them with a bit of brass and mill a rake on the back of the sight.
A brass face shows up good on overcast days and just appears black on sunny days because of the rake. MD

 

[freekforge]

here it is with its final grip shape. the brass looks splotchy and corroded but thats the reflection it actually has a mirror finish. now i just need to look around for a coin to use have dad solder it on and reblue all the steel. the silver piece where the rammer used to go is made of Al right now i am waiting on some brass to make a new one to match the frame.

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[Nifeman]

Ethan, thats a neat little pistol and I love the grip shape :thumbsup: ...Bud
PS... that would look good in a shoulder rig :wink:

 

[MSW]

neat looking gun!

 

[freekforge]

Thanks guys I am really liking it too
Nifeman me and my dad both said that it would look cool in a shoulder holster right after the barrel was cut. I started an extreme cross draw holster for it last night. And if I can get some more leather I am going to try to make a shoulder rig

 

[Naphtali]

An interesting adaptation. Your revolver reminds me of a snub nose 1858 created by the owner of Can-Am Emporium in Sumas, Washington, perhaps 20 years ago. Dave had somehow managed to shorten the Remington's loading lever assembly. The revolver was very squat and menacing. It had a front sight but I cannot remember its height, nor can I recall its accuracy and consistency beyond about seven yards.
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How or why did you decide to use that barrel length?

How do you keep the cylinder pin in place? How easily or quickly can your cylinder pin be manipulated to dismount the cylinder?

 

[freekforge]

3.625 just sounded like a good number :haha:

to keep the pin in i made a piece out of alluminum that rotates out of the way to remove the pin. I can swap cylinders pretty fast. when i get some brass i am going to make the piece match the frame. here are some pics of it

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[/img] the pictures arent very good the camera didnt want to focus

 

[freekforge]

I've been thinking and i think i might put a post sight in and if it proves to be accurate i will remove the post sight and replace it with a coin that is soldered to a post

 

[M. De Land]

I would suggest a woodruff cut in the top flat if your going to solder in a coin. A pin most likely would break off from the inertia after awhile from the unsupported additional weight of a soldered on coin half.

This brass sight(lower gun) was soldered into a woodruff cut after removing the original and will give you some idea of the height needed to get a six o'clock hold on the black of a target at 25 yards. MD