Shot my flinter for first time

[Patocazador]

I shot my .45 flinter for the first time this morning. I waited to get a flush kit from TOW before dirtying it up.

I shot .440 PRBs offhand with .018 ticking lubed with mink oil and 55 gr. of 3FG with 4FG priming powder.

I flinched a bit on the 1st shot after the pan flash but before the main charge ignited. The pause was not long but noticeable .. maybe .05 seconds. The shot hit 6" low at 7:00 @ 25 yards.
I tried to aim higher with the 2nd shot and it missed the 10" x 20" target completely. I don't think I flinched on that shot.
The 3rd shot was 5" low at 5:00 with a very slight flinch.

I believe the front sight is too high but want to shoot several groups from the bench before dressing down the sight.

One problem I encountered was with the priming charge dribbling down the slight gap between the lock and barrel below the touch hole. I tried adjusting the screw tension on the lock but the small gap didn't change. Also the front screw contacts the side of the front edge of the frizzen spring on the small Siler lock. Is there an easy solution for these problems? (I know I can shorten the screw to avoid contacting the spring but I don't know if it is intentionally made this way.)

The flush kit also didn't work well due the how high the stock comes up on the left side of the barrel. The clamp doesn't fully engage the left side and that allows leakage through the o-ring on the right side.

Lots of practice sessions await me.

 

[Alden]

Hmmm... A key element of a well assembled gun is having the lock flush on the barrel flat -- might want to inlet that wood a bit*. As for screw THROUGH lock, no, that's just where hole is -- popping thru lock plate against feather spring.

*You could leave it -- only drawback is eventually the lock, stock, and barrel will separate from the explosion of the fine, accumulated, powder collected in those tight spaces. Wheelocks are sorta notorious for hidden powder pops...

 

[Col. Batguano]

That's been my experience with the flush kits too. Besides, there is always a little powder residue that gets somewhere. Now I just pull the barrel each time to make sure I get it all cleaned up.

 

[nwtradegun]

if you grind off the end off the bolt that's to long , first put a bolt behind it first. then when you grind it the bolt will clean of the burs from the threads after grinding.

 

[matt denison]

You really need to fix the gap between lock and barrel. It is very unsafe. Inlet the lock deeper or if need be fit a shim (beeswax will work or thin thin piece of lead) whatever happens you need to fix it.

You also need to shoot that gun some more. You will get used to the lag time and you will begin to relax and let the gun do the work and your groups will get tighter then fool with the front sight.

 

[Swede50]

hotoSmile: What brand/make of a smoke pole do you have?

 

[Orthod]

I too am breaking a new muzzle loader. I've been trying different loads and patches. I think I have settled on a load, but it's going to be a few more trips to the range before I adjust the sites.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

if you grind off the end off the bolt that's to long , first put a bolt behind it first. then when you grind it the bolt will clean of the burs from the threads after grinding.

He meant put a 'nut' onto the bolt 1st ...

 

[Patocazador]

hotoSmile: What brand/make of a smoke pole do you have?

It's a third-hand custom southern style with a 42" barrel.



I see now why it was for sale. Split stock at the nose. Inletting around the lock is sub-standard also the lock is in too deep at the front and out too far at the rear. It also is tilted out at the top resulting in the gap.

I have to bed it to reinforce the stock. I hope I can get the lock in there correctly and then bed it too. However, I would like to use thin wood shims at the front and bottom to get it in there correctly, glue them and then bed it instead of using lead foil or plastic so it will all fuse properly.

 

[Patocazador]

What's the best way to bed the new position of the lock without getting Accra-glas in the lock itself.
I was thinking about coating the back of the lock (sear, springs, etc.) with Vaseline and then covering with Saran Wrap before placing it into the bedding material.

No?, yes?

 

[paulab]

Follow the acraglas instructions included with each kit.

 

[rafterob]

I would disassemble the lock, bedding the plate only. Use the suggested release material in the instructions.

 

[twig]

accraglass works great for us novice builders i come by the experience honestly :redface: