FlintlockHunter said:
Do you think a pre-wrapped paper shot bag or paper shot cartridge would be the ticket? I am currently only using Wonder Wads with 2 over powder and one over shot. It works but I am a bit worried about non-toxic shot damaging my barrels. Any thoughts?
Bismuth/tin shot will not damage your barrel any more than lead. Steel and the sintered tungsten-based shot can, and need fairly substantial protection. Shot with tungsten-based materials in a polymer or a tin matrix is not supposed to, but I haven't seen any tested.
Cartridges can be a challenge to get to open consistently. Because of my fowler's rough bores, I tried a variety of things for shot protectors when I first got it. I settled on a 2-petal shotcup design like the Alcan Shot Protector, because it is simple to make, easy to use, reliable, and also makes efficient use of materials. For my 16ga with a bore circumference of just a hair over 2", drywall spark tape happens to be a handy material - inexpensive, convenient dimensions (exactly twice the width I need), and tough enough when used with lead shot.
The basic shape is a rectangle, with a width of 1/2 the bore circumference (or just under) and length of the bore diameter plus twice the height of the shot charge, possibly with cuts or cutouts around the "base" in the centre of the rectangle to make folding easier. With heavy paper (spark tape or construction paper) or some light card-stock, you don't even need the "base" elaborations - just wrap it around the "former", even it up, and fold the "corners" under the base.
To load, after I've rammed the over-powder cards then inserted the cushion wad in the muzzle, I fold/wrap it longways around the end of a 5/8" dowel (sort of like a musket-cartridge "former" crossed with a short-starter, slightly smaller than bore diameter) and square it up, insert it on top of the cushion wad, and push it down far enough to hold the shot. I've never had these fail to open evenly.
Because Bismuth shot is somewhat harder but more brittle than lead, I usually use a light card stock (business-card weight) rather than the spark tape to give it a little more protection from the rough bores. If you make the shot protectors 1/4" or so wider than 1/2 the circumference, the edges overlap when you load them, so there's no chance of shot touching the bore.
A really interesting material is the slick shiny clay-finished 7-10 mil card stock used for phone book covers, some advertising flyers, and laser-printer photo paper (*NOT* the plastic-finished ink-jet photo paper). I've started working on steel-shot loads and on alternatives to the requisite heavy plastic wads. None of the materials were tough enough in any reasonable number of layers until I tried the phone-book covers. This was the last thing I tried and I need to get out again to test some more (can't shoot steel shot at my normal range), but used with the slick/shiny side out, even the outer layer had no holes scrubbed through with 1.1/8oz Fe#5 over 3.1/2dr FFg. Even with my rough bores, it looks like I'll only need at most 2 of the 2-petal shot protectors nested at right angles to give adequate protection with steel shot, and 1 with the overlapped edges might be enough. I don't know about how they would work with the extra abrasion of chokes or with the irregularities of Hevishot.
I don't think I'll ever have a steel load I like for geese, but lower-cost duck loads, and maybe even a somewhat elaborate cartridge for a swatter speed-load, seem prospective.
Joel