shotgun paper cups

[Huntinshep]

In response to my 10 ga post Excess650 mentioned he uses a paper shot cup for his shot. Can anyone help me out on these. Have only seen 12 ga plastic shot cups for sale. Are these individually made when you load the gun? I'm new at BP shotguns. Thanks for any info.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

There is a ton if information in the search function in this particular forum.

I spose it sounds kinda rude.


I have been reading old smoothbore posts for the better part of a month gleening info on shooting shot, its well worth the time to invest.

YMMV

 

[MSW]

I'm sure others will have different opinions, but i wouldn't put any plastic into a muzzleloader, and that includes shot cups. did it once and it took forever and lots of cusswords to get the gunk out of the barrels.

I don't shoot that piece anymore for safety reasons (although it's a cool looking wallhanger) but i did and still do make a paper cup as the basis for a paper cartridge falling block Sharps pattern .54. Here's how:

Start out with a wooden dowel a bit smaller than your bore diameter, and see if you can increase the diameter of the dowel by wrapping tape (i used duct tape), so that the thing will just barely fit into the muzzle after you wrap two turns of cardstock (the 3x5 index card stuff) around the dowel. (now my paper cartridge uses thinner paper, but for a shot cup, i think you should use heavier stock)

this will take some trial and error, but once you have your diameter where you want it, take a sharp pointed knife and carve a v- shaped depression in the back of the dowel.

To make the shot cup, put two wraps around the dowel, with a bit sticking out below the bottom. tighten the wraps as best you can around the dowel, then using a drift punch, fold/push/mash the excess paper into the v- shaped depression in the dowel.

You will, of course, have to adjust the width of the cardstock to fill (but not overfill) the depression in the back of the dowel, and to make the cup deep enough to hold your charge of shot, but no so deep that there's too much paper and you end up with a big slug of paper wrapped shot zinging downrange.

You should also consider cutting through the sides of the cup, so that it will peel away from the shot column as quickly as possible and avoid leaving gaps or holes in your pattern.

Hope this helps.

 

[excess650]

I just made a few and took photos. You'll have to adjust the dimensions to fit your bore size and desired shot capacity. My suggestion is to use a cylindrical object slightly smaller than your bore size to wrap the paper around. I use plain old copier paper. The cap on this marker is slightly tapered, and that IS desireable. The taper makes it easy to remove the formed cup from the mandrel, and also makes it easier to load into the muzzle.
I prefer to do at least 1-1/4 wraps and glue the overlap with Elmers.
I twist and fold the extra length over to form a flat base and glue it as well.If you're careful you won't end up with wrinkles like I'm showing.
Remove the formed cup and let it dry.
This particular cup finished .740" x 1.20" and holds 1-5/8 oz #6 shot. Its too large to fit in my 12 bore, but would be close to the right size for a 10 bore. Its desireable, in my opinion, for the shotcup to slide easily in the muzzle and past the choke(if there is one). Being slightly undersize, it may begin to rupture when the overshot card is seated, and definitely upon firing. You will not find the shreds of paper!

These are the type of cups that I use in my 12 gauge TC New Englander barrel. After the powder is poured down the bore I put a pair of 12ga Wonder Wads in the bore, but only push them down about 1-1/2". The shotcup is inserted into the muzzle and held in place with the WWs while the shot is poured. I add an over shot card and seat firmly on the powder.

I do not use cushion wads or nitro cards under the shotcups and have not experienced blown patterns, holes in patterns, or "donuts". Likewise, I have not had any leading in my bore.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I do it a little different (but not much). I fit a 5/8" X 3-1/2" dowel shaved just a hair on one end to fit a 16 ga. The paper is grocery bags sliced 2-7/8" x 1". I center one over the dowel end and fold the ends over - making a cup. This goes into the muzzle just flush - and holds 1-1/8 oz of shot. If I push another 1/8" it's 1-1/4 oz.

 

[Ken Rummer]

It seems to me that the paper cup full of shot will tear apart and fall down the barrel in pieces. What holds it together while you reach for the ramrod?

 

[excess650]

It seems to me that the paper cup full of shot will tear apart and fall down the barrel in pieces. What holds it together while you reach for the ramrod?

Stumpy is using heavier paper (grocery bags) than my printer paper, and mine don't fall apart. I formed some using printer paper using Stumpy's method, and they didn't tear.

Try it before you write it off.

 

[excess650]

Stumpkiller,
Your shotcups are elegant in their simplicity. Using the dowel with precut paper strips while loading effectively eliminates concerns about how to carry paper shotcups without crushing them. :thumbsup:

 

[ohio ramrod]

I make my shot cartridges much like the civil war paper cartridges using three thicknesses of newspapaer tied off with kite string. They don't fall apart in the bore and eliminate the need for an over shot card. :idunno: :idunno:

 

[Stumpkiller]

Stumpkiller,
Your shotcups are elegant in their simplicity. Using the dowel with precut paper strips while loading effectively eliminates concerns about how to carry paper shotcups without crushing them. :thumbsup:

The dowel is handy for starting cards flush over the muzzle, too. I figure simple is better and likely closer to correct; period or otherwise.

The cups hold up to at least past the muzzle. ;-) I find halves with shot marks on the inside and fouling on the outside - showing they pass with the column.

I made a little sheath to hold the blanks in my pouch.

One thing that surprised me is you don't want to put the cup in and add shot and then try to put the over-shot card on and slide the whole group down. About half the time it siezes up and is near impossible to push down. Push the shot down and then add the card on it's own (though your results may vary).

This is a 30 yard target (black 4" circle) with 16 bore and 1-1/8 of #6 in my straight cylinder bore. MUCH better than the bare shot alone.

Here's 25 yards

Note - I only put the targets next to each other to photograph AFTER they had been shot alone and one-at-a-time on my backstop.