Should I return my 1858?

[crazsog]

I've been reading posts on this forum for a while now, and after hours of searching I decided to ask you guys if you think something's wrong with the 1858 I just received. It's my first cap and ball so I might be wrong, but I feel like this pietta has a timing problem. When I put it on half cock, the cylinder spins the way it's supposed to spin (clock wise from behind the cylinder), but once it reaches the half cock position, the cylinder goes back the other way just a tiny bit after hearing that first click. Now something else that bothers me a little, I hear 3 clicks when I pull the hammer back slowly. Aren't those guns supposed to only have 2 clicks? And finally, I can't get the cylinder back in while having the gun in half cock position. The "hand" seems to get in the way, so I have to lower the hammer fully (making sure I don't lower the hammer from the half cock position as i've heard it's bad for the cylinder) and then slightly pull it back (before it reaches the half cock position) to be able to get the cylinder back in. Basically I always have to hold the hammer back a little with my thumb while i'm doing the swap. I tried rotating the cylinder to get it to fit but it just won't go back in if I don't do it as I just described. I should mention that I just received the gun and I haven't fired it yet, I'm just wondering if I should send it back or if I'm just being paranoid. Here's a quick video that'll hopefully be of help to understand my issues : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4JqWIWS6gw
(I forgot to demonstrate the problem i'm having with the cylinder swap in the video, so hopefully my words were clear enough on that issue).

Thanks in advance for the help

 

[M. De Land]

Poor timing is when the bolt lifts to late and hangs up on the back of the bolt knock or continues to push and bind on the cylinder after it's locked up.
Some folks believe they are out of time if they drop before lead in cuts to bolt notches in the cylinder because they don't like to see a drag line.
The 58 doesn't have lead in cuts anyway.

The cylinder moves backwards because your letting the hammer move forward as well instead of fully cocking the gun in one continuous back motion. You probably have a very stiff hand spring.
The hand is spring loaded and has engaged the ratchet tooth at this point and the bolt has not dropped to lock up the cylinder. The hand is actuated by the hammer and controls cylinder movement until the bolt drops,locking it up and the hand disengages from the ratchet. This is why the cylinder is retracting when you let the hammer down a bit before fulling cocking it.
Cock the hammer all the way back without stopping and the cylinder should stop moving backwards.
Mine has three clicks although one if very silent but mine has been used for 25 years too.
I think your gun is fine from what I can see.
The first click is the hand dropping into the ratchet teeth. The second is the bolt dropping against the cylinder before engaging the notch and the third is when it drops into the cylinder notch.
The bolt should drop anywhere past the half way point between cylinder notches.
One of the first things you need to do is pull the gun apart and stone off all the sharp edges on the bolt and hand without changing any of the dimensions. All your doing is breaking any sharp edges and polishing the top of the bolt so it doesn't gall the cylinder surface. It is lot harder steel than the cylinder and will cut into it if not dresses as described. Mike D.

 

[BowerR64]

The hand spring is stiff still and its probably pretty dry.

I dont think anything is wrong

 

[Brian6396]

Try rotating the cylinder clockwise as you reinstall it to push the hand out of the way.

 

[rafterob]

Doesn't sound like anything is wrong with it other than you being overly anxious? which is perfectly understandable with a new toy. As long as it locks up where it is supposed to when you put it in full cock you're in business. The changing out of the cylinder can be frustrating but with practice it becomes easier. I have found that pulling the hammer slightly past 1/2 cock does release the hand making it easier to rotate the cylinder in. You can do it simply on 1/2 cock but it takes more finesse.

 

[Poor Private]

Yeppers just take pratcie on replacing the cylinder back in. I have gotten so that I can do it in a couple of seconds without looking. Wath Clint Eastwood in Josie Wales and 1`other movie (I forget it's name). Where he does it that way. Just play with it a bit and you'll get it with no problme.

 

[AZbpBurner]

Disassemble and take a look at the bolt. It is kinda elbow shaped. The inside radius of the elbow should be smooth, however, I've gotten more than one that still have the rough tab from the stamping process left in place. A simple Dremel abrasive wheel will remove the tab, and make the action much more positive and smoother.

 

[crazsog]

Thanks guys, I guess being new to BP shooting I just need to get used to it. I've already taken it apart to have a look inside, so I'll do that again and get rid of any sharp edges on the bolt and the hand.
Should I do the same on other parts while I'm at it?

 

[M. De Land]

Yes,usually the hand slot will have casting buggers still left that can stand to be removed and the slot smoothed up.
A finger nail board works well here initially then wrap some 400 emery paper around it to finish up with.
The edges of the cylinder notches and the bolt window usually need smoothing as well without changing either of their sizes.
Some like to smooth down the trigger and hammer screws but unless fitting new oversize ones I don't do so as it tends to loosen pins and screws that are generally already not particularly well fit.Polishing them is removing metal and is a moot point if the inside of the hole is not dressed and lap fit to the pin or screw as well.
A good grade of gun oil will make them wear into each other fairly soon without any metal removal.
Hammer slots can usually stand cleaned up as well as the hand slot for some improvement by smoothing the machine marks.
It would be a good idea to stone the corners of the hammer to take off any sharpness.
Flat stoning the sides of the hammer won't gain you much unless grousely out of spec which is not usually a problem.
Almost all can stand a trigger job but this is not something one should undertake without a good bit of experience.
Ratchet stars can usually stand the corners being cleaned up with fine round stone or round fine diamond like a Gerber knife steel.
Filing a ratchet though to get it functioning smoothly is probably the toughest job in revolver fitting so any correction should be left to someone trained to do it. It is very seldom needed but often when one finds an other wise good revolver with the problem it can be had very reasonably and fixed. Mike D.