Shoulder stocks and pistols
- Thread starter bezoar
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I seem to remember that there is more of a divergence than a consensus on these. I can't even develop a consensus among the two of them I shoot sometimes but my general take is that with a good trigger pull and a skilled shooter, The stock has a real advantage over one handed shooting but not over two handed shooting. the trade-off is steadiness vs blurred sights. The later observation made by somebody with a solid case of senile presbyopia.
Anyway, I put a stock on this Navy and hit five out of six cans at 25 yards. Then took the stock off and hit five out of six again shooting two handed.
http://www.gunpix.com/gallery/Muzzleloaders_and_Blackpowder/61navyfiveofsix.jpg
with this 61 Navy, I find that i hit six or eight inches lower with the stock in place. The navy is sighted for ball loads and substituting 125 grain buffalo bullets brought the sights back to zero with the stock. I didn't notice any difference on a 60 army with the same sort of stock set-up.
Colt had three separate types of stock monting systems but the ones available now all seem to depend on the gun having the protruding screw/lugs on the side of the frame.
Anyway, I put a stock on this Navy and hit five out of six cans at 25 yards. Then took the stock off and hit five out of six again shooting two handed.
http://www.gunpix.com/gallery/Muzzleloaders_and_Blackpowder/61navyfiveofsix.jpg
with this 61 Navy, I find that i hit six or eight inches lower with the stock in place. The navy is sighted for ball loads and substituting 125 grain buffalo bullets brought the sights back to zero with the stock. I didn't notice any difference on a 60 army with the same sort of stock set-up.
Colt had three separate types of stock monting systems but the ones available now all seem to depend on the gun having the protruding screw/lugs on the side of the frame.
big bore 75
40 Cal.
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that thing sure is purdy and the shooting is veen purdyer if you get the chance send me you loads I like to try them. bb 75
This is probably the load I was using that day:
Hornady .375 ball:
22 Gr./VolPyrodex P 81 Grain .375 ball 1046
Just loaded in from the 22 grain flask spout with crisco on top.
125 Buffalo Bullet:
I've gotten about the same accuracy with this one:
18 Gr./Vol Pyrodex P 125 Gr. Buffalo Bullet 865 fps
The bullet load is about on for elevation but hits about 1.5" to the left of the balls at 60 feet.
Hornady .375 ball:
22 Gr./VolPyrodex P 81 Grain .375 ball 1046
Just loaded in from the 22 grain flask spout with crisco on top.
125 Buffalo Bullet:
I've gotten about the same accuracy with this one:
18 Gr./Vol Pyrodex P 125 Gr. Buffalo Bullet 865 fps
The bullet load is about on for elevation but hits about 1.5" to the left of the balls at 60 feet.
Uberti's 60 army and 61 Navy have them. The army stock we got already fit. Thenavy needed some minor filing - on the brass part of the stock,not on the gun.
I've seen advertisements somewhere for Dragoons with the oversized screws. Actually most 60 armys have them unless they are called "civilian models"
I've seen advertisements somewhere for Dragoons with the oversized screws. Actually most 60 armys have them unless they are called "civilian models"
To use the stocks I've seen, the pistol not only has to have a extra screw head protruding out of each side of the frame, but it needs a notch cut into the metal part of the butt end of the grip.
I've always heard these pistols refered to as "4 screw" frames and, no, there are a lot of replicas that don't have both of these features.
The two screw heads catch on the inside of the metal part of the stock, and a hook and screw attaches into the notch in the pistol butt to lock everything together.
I've always thought I wanted to buy one of these stocks for my 1861 Colt (which has the needed attachment features), but the owners of these always seem to think they are more valuable than I do. ::
I've always heard these pistols refered to as "4 screw" frames and, no, there are a lot of replicas that don't have both of these features.
The two screw heads catch on the inside of the metal part of the stock, and a hook and screw attaches into the notch in the pistol butt to lock everything together.
I've always thought I wanted to buy one of these stocks for my 1861 Colt (which has the needed attachment features), but the owners of these always seem to think they are more valuable than I do. ::
The 1855 Harper's ferry has that. Napoleon's LePage Flintlock had a stock I believe.
Unfortunately, I've read reviews on the Dixie site that say the stock with the HF won't fit the gun. Even more unfortunately, that gun is made by the Palmetto co. A good one would be cool as they shoot 58 cal minie bullets.
Unfortunately, I've read reviews on the Dixie site that say the stock with the HF won't fit the gun. Even more unfortunately, that gun is made by the Palmetto co. A good one would be cool as they shoot 58 cal minie bullets.
A fellow over on the SASS board is dumping his 1860 shoulder stock for $175.
http://sassnet.com/forums/index.php?s=5844c9dcf4d9c29b8a932a30de284776&showtopic=8129
http://sassnet.com/forums/index.php?s=5844c9dcf4d9c29b8a932a30de284776&showtopic=8129
amccall
40 Cal.
Dixie gun works has them for $157.50
1860 army shoulder stock
1860 army shoulder stock
WV_Hillbilly
45 Cal.
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You got some pretty accurate info about the specifics. But I will sum up what I think you are wanting to know.
Yes, the gun has to be a specific model with the extra "4th screw" (actually a misnomer, since they are only there to serve as lugs for the top of the clamping process AND there is really a 5th screw--it's a pair of "4th screws"--having one extra on EACH side of the frame) and a slightly longer grip frame with a notch in the heel of the butt.
One of the first cap-n-ball revolvers I owned was a Navy Arms 1860 Colt Army (4 screw version) that had the shoulder stock. I originally bought the gun without the stock... as I was a very close friend of the shop owner. About 1 year later, he just gave me the stock, as he never replaced the gun in his inventory and the stock was useless for any other purpose.
I was not impressed by ANY added functionality, since the gun now virtually required both hands to fire it. It was not more accurate--as it forced me to have my eye closer to the rear sight and thus reduced the "effective" sight radius and changed the sight picture. It was a plain nuisance and I finally sold both gun and stock to someone who seemed desperate to have a shoulder stocked revolver. I bought a different sytled gun as I had recouped more than what I paid (as that stock was basically free--and that's just about more than it was worth IMHO!)
TRUST ME--I've been messing with these revolvers for close to 30 years and I THINK it (the shoulder stock) is NOT worth the hassles OR the price. BUT... I did like the longer grip frame of that particular gun. AND REMEMBER... You can just about buy another gun for the price of that stock!
Buy Wisely--Shoot Safely!
WV_Hillbilly
Yes, the gun has to be a specific model with the extra "4th screw" (actually a misnomer, since they are only there to serve as lugs for the top of the clamping process AND there is really a 5th screw--it's a pair of "4th screws"--having one extra on EACH side of the frame) and a slightly longer grip frame with a notch in the heel of the butt.
One of the first cap-n-ball revolvers I owned was a Navy Arms 1860 Colt Army (4 screw version) that had the shoulder stock. I originally bought the gun without the stock... as I was a very close friend of the shop owner. About 1 year later, he just gave me the stock, as he never replaced the gun in his inventory and the stock was useless for any other purpose.
I was not impressed by ANY added functionality, since the gun now virtually required both hands to fire it. It was not more accurate--as it forced me to have my eye closer to the rear sight and thus reduced the "effective" sight radius and changed the sight picture. It was a plain nuisance and I finally sold both gun and stock to someone who seemed desperate to have a shoulder stocked revolver. I bought a different sytled gun as I had recouped more than what I paid (as that stock was basically free--and that's just about more than it was worth IMHO!)
TRUST ME--I've been messing with these revolvers for close to 30 years and I THINK it (the shoulder stock) is NOT worth the hassles OR the price. BUT... I did like the longer grip frame of that particular gun. AND REMEMBER... You can just about buy another gun for the price of that stock!
Buy Wisely--Shoot Safely!
WV_Hillbilly
