Side Seam Moccasin project

[NeilMacleod]

Started on the Project this morning. Started of doing a test using fabric, a few tweaks and then in leather. Going to do a lining in wool.

 

[tenngun]

:thumbsup: remember to make ”˜me tight, no matter how much you stretch you leather they stretch when your waring them.

 

[NeilMacleod]

Yup that is a concern, I would think wool lining would hinder some of the stretch. Thanks

 

[tenngun]

I did make a pair like that lined with wool inset. Wore them to the unseasonably wet and cool 1985 Berryville Arkansas state shoot. Rain mud and flood all weekend. I picked up the name of Duck Foot. By Sunday I didn’t need a tent, jus lay down and put my feet in the air was all the cover I needed.

 

[NeilMacleod]

Almost done my test pair 2

Problem is what would you recommend for the tongue section? Thinking sew the two inches on the main piece and let the upper section cross over with straps, or stitch the whole thing up, would be loose, still need straps.
Wearing them now, want to see how they feel, the left one is tighter for some reason, wearing extra pair wools. Also the seam on the bridge is a concern, might dig in after a time.
This is bovine and a bit stiff, discount stuff I use to experiment with.
Thanks!

 

[Black Hand]

Trim, wet then pound the seams before/after you turn them. In the tongue and upper area, you can use butt-seams to eliminate the bulk. Personally, I would have put the rough side out. Also, they should be snug when you make them as they stretch when worn the first few times - it is annoying having to go back and tighten moccasins by trimming and resewing.

 

[NeilMacleod]

I trimmed the seam on the one, was digging too much, better now but can still feel it.
Walked a five block circuit to try them out.
Yup, rough side out would have been better. I did hammer the seams, did not moisten them, wearing them for the rest of the day should but enough moisture in them to soften/hammer again.

 

[tenngun]

I would also welt the seam. Take a 1/4 to a 1/2 an incredible off your pattern. You want them so tight they almost hurt to pull them on.

 

[NeilMacleod]

Saw were they used welts, was concerned on the bulk of the seam digging into the heal.
it does take a tug to put them on, one feels perfect the other just the bridge is an issue, hope the hammering deals with it later on.

 

[Black Hand]

I also make the uppers long enough to overlap the front and tongue - keeps manure out of your moccasin better.

 

[NeilMacleod]

yup, thats what im going to do, just stitch the lower section and leave the upper to wrap around.
What would be period correct to use lace, just wrap around, eyelets or just holes?

 

[Black Hand]

I punch a couple of holes in the upper at about the level of the tongue and insert a long lace which is wrapped and tied.

 

[NeilMacleod]

Ok.
Were Im at now, basically finished, have to do the heal tab still.
Decided to go with the inside out look, much more comfortable, clean up the seams and should be ok. Il make them holee tomorrow. Will do a hard sole for these, I have some 8 or 14 oz, dont recall.

 

[Black Hand]

As much as hard soles seem to be a good idea, they aren't. Makes the moccasins more slippery and the hard leather wears faster. If you must, add a second sole of soft leather.

As much of a nuisance as it seems, resew the moccasins so you can turn them and have the seams inside.

They do look good.

 

[NeilMacleod]

Thanks!
Will do that with the next one, fingers might revolt if I have to redo them lol. still want to do full mukluks.

 

[smo]

You could just order some New Balance insoles.

Best $35 bucks I ever spent.

Best thing is no one can see them. :hatsoff:

 

[NeilMacleod]

I ware Orthotics so already contoured

 

[NeilMacleod]

Hard Leather wears Faster ?? I found on pavement swade goes very fast.

Done.
I added a soft sole as recomended, same as uppers, had problems with that in that i put the R sole on the L shoe, after tugging with a pair of pliers I had to re-coat and wait a day.
Feel realy nice, just have to swap out the cord for leather lace, didnt cut any till I knew how long I would need it.
Sewing chalk does not seam to want to go away so need to get a brush. The other thing to decide is to apply mink oil or not, these will get dirty fast. Took a walk around the block, very happy with them

 

[rusty]

Very Nice.

 

[Black Hand]

Why the boot lacing through holes punched in the uppers?
This would not have been done and makes the construction modern rather than period. The lacing wrapped around the uppers...