Now that I pretty much decided on the Siler lock (with the help of all you guys) how tuff is it to assemble the kit form of the Siler Large Flint Lock? I know the parts have to be hardened, I have oxy/acet capabilities here, but have never done this sort of thing before. I think the diference is about $45 between the kit or the finished lock. I'm always up for a challenge but am I looking at the wrong challenge this time. What are your thoughts. Uncrichie...
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Siler Lock kits
- Thread starter uncrichie
- Start date
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tennesseejeff
32 Cal.
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- Dec 22, 2004
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I'm trying to decide the same thing and have pretty much made up my mind to spend the bucks on the completed lock. I wouldn't really save any money by buying the kit after I got the drills and taps to put it together. It would be fun to build one, but I think I'll save that project for later. Good luck which ever way you go.
Jeff
Jeff
I have never had any difficulty in assembling or heat treating Siler locks. I like assembling them because I have more control over the final product. If your project can tolerate an off-the-shelf lock, there is nothing wrong with the assembled ones. An assembly jig, like used by Bivens and Alexander makes the end result more predictable, but a neat, accurate job can be done without the jig. Take your time and follow the directions.
Guest
If you assemble the kit follow the instructions to the letter!
They are simple and precise and have been used to assemble thousands of locks successfully.
Do not try to improve on the process, improvise, substitute or change the secquences.
These kits and instructions are almost idiot proof, but I have seen them messed up.
Order an extra mainspring. You'll need an extra even if you don't break the origional.
They are simple and precise and have been used to assemble thousands of locks successfully.
Do not try to improve on the process, improvise, substitute or change the secquences.
These kits and instructions are almost idiot proof, but I have seen them messed up.
Order an extra mainspring. You'll need an extra even if you don't break the origional.
Howdy... 
I think building a lock kit to save money may be the wrong reason, it could cost more in the long run than buying ready made :cry:, (in my case), re-buying parts you have ruined and the postage adds up, and you could still end up with a poor lock. I think everyone should have the experience in building at least one lock kit, it makes you appreciate those who can do it correctly, and helps you spot defects in ready made locks you buy. So just tell yourself building a lock from a kit is educational. The hard part,for me, :boohoo: the holes must be spotted exactly, and drilled perpendicular.
I don't have much problems with woodwork, but the metal work in gunmaking usually is my weak spot. go ahead and do it, as my mother-in-law used to say, "you won't learn any younger". good luck... :applause:
I think building a lock kit to save money may be the wrong reason, it could cost more in the long run than buying ready made :cry:, (in my case), re-buying parts you have ruined and the postage adds up, and you could still end up with a poor lock. I think everyone should have the experience in building at least one lock kit, it makes you appreciate those who can do it correctly, and helps you spot defects in ready made locks you buy. So just tell yourself building a lock from a kit is educational. The hard part,for me, :boohoo: the holes must be spotted exactly, and drilled perpendicular.I don't have much problems with woodwork, but the metal work in gunmaking usually is my weak spot. go ahead and do it, as my mother-in-law used to say, "you won't learn any younger". good luck... :applause:
I have sucessfully built both the precussion and flint versions of the Silar locks and will say, it's an interesting task.
If you build the flintlock, you may find, as I did that drilling the hole for the frizzen screw thru the lockplate, frizzen and bridle without it going adrift somewhere and breaking out the side can be a real challenge.
If you have the jigs and fixtures to do the job it is a no brainer, but working with just a drill press (or hand drill) can ruin $15-$20 worth of parts real quickly.**
The precussion locks are no problem if you carefully follow all of the instructions.
** After you've screwed up the frizzen and pan/bridle, you can order a precussion lock hammer and build a perfect recreation of a "flintlock modified to precussion". It has all of the holes and even the filed off pan just like the real things!! Talk about PC!!! ::
If you build the flintlock, you may find, as I did that drilling the hole for the frizzen screw thru the lockplate, frizzen and bridle without it going adrift somewhere and breaking out the side can be a real challenge.
If you have the jigs and fixtures to do the job it is a no brainer, but working with just a drill press (or hand drill) can ruin $15-$20 worth of parts real quickly.**
The precussion locks are no problem if you carefully follow all of the instructions.
** After you've screwed up the frizzen and pan/bridle, you can order a precussion lock hammer and build a perfect recreation of a "flintlock modified to precussion". It has all of the holes and even the filed off pan just like the real things!! Talk about PC!!! ::
Well, you guys have helped me out again. I think for this first one I will buy the assembled unit. However the next one which I'm sure will happen in the future will be the kit. Having the finished product handy while trying to assemble the kit will be very helpful. Uncrichie...
Uncrinchie: If this is your first rifle, *Definately* buy the lock finished & I suggest it be a Chambers Siler from Jim Chambers shop. Lifetime warranty on parts if it comes from him & it will be a superb lock. If it is a target rifle & fitting, I suggest the large Siler.
If it is a hunting rifle & it can use a taller cock, I suggest the Chambers Deluxe Siler as it is a real fireworks of a lock. It is a lil harder on flints usually than the regular large Siler as it hits the frizzen harder, but it will shower sparks like you won't believe. The Chambers Golden Age lock as the same guts as the Deluxe Siler, just a slimmer & slightly longer plate.
IMHO, you will have more than enough to boggle your brain when building this rifle, you don't need to add lock problems to on the first one...
Good luck with the rifle building... :thumbsup:
If it is a hunting rifle & it can use a taller cock, I suggest the Chambers Deluxe Siler as it is a real fireworks of a lock. It is a lil harder on flints usually than the regular large Siler as it hits the frizzen harder, but it will shower sparks like you won't believe. The Chambers Golden Age lock as the same guts as the Deluxe Siler, just a slimmer & slightly longer plate.
IMHO, you will have more than enough to boggle your brain when building this rifle, you don't need to add lock problems to on the first one...
Good luck with the rifle building... :thumbsup:
