Silver wire inlay

[brazosland]

Never done it. Want try a bit on some hawk handles.

How do you make it “stick” for lack of a better word?

 

[Vaino]

The "wire should be 3/32" or a little less wide and the thickness varies.....I used .008. A sharp tip of a chisel or knife is held on the "wire" which is then pulled cutting a shallow groove. both sides should be done. After the 'wire" is inletted, the stock is wetted and will shrink around the wire. If too much of the wire is proud of the wood, a burr will be the result of filing flush....the burr isn't that easy to eliminate. I made the chisels from lengths of hack saw blades and the tips vary from 1/16" -1/8" wide. A curve can be formed on the tip w/o annealing and a fairly long taper ends w/ a very sharp edge. The groove should be deeper than the "wire's" width. One edge of the "wire" should be sharpened for easier entry into the wood. If the metal used is too stiff or springy, it should be annealed. If the hawk handles are hickory, that might be a problem....hard maple is better for this.. Also if the handles are round, that probably will be a problem. .going lengthwise will work....Fred

 

[Norman Brooks]

Is the hawk for display only? The shock from throwing would nock it loose. I sure somebody will chime in on it...

 

[brazosland]

Hawk will be for display and cleaning deer. No throwing since it’s a maple handle.

 

[Zonie]

The "wire should be 3/32" or a little less wide and the thickness varies.....I used .008. A sharp tip of a chisel or knife is held on the "wire" which is then pulled cutting a shallow groove. both sides should be done. After the 'wire" is inletted, the stock is wetted and will shrink around the wire. If too much of the wire is proud of the wood, a burr will be the result of filing flush....the burr isn't that easy to eliminate. I made the chisels from lengths of hack saw blades and the tips vary from 1/16" -1/8" wide. A curve can be formed on the tip w/o annealing and a fairly long taper ends w/ a very sharp edge. The groove should be deeper than the "wire's" width. One edge of the "wire" should be sharpened for easier entry into the wood. If the metal used is too stiff or springy, it should be annealed. If the hawk handles are hickory, that might be a problem....hard maple is better for this.. Also if the handles are round, that probably will be a problem. .going lengthwise will work....Fred

Rather than using a sharp chisel or knife, I use a fine toothed triangular file to form the grooves in the sides of the silver or brass ribbon.

To do this, with the file laying flat on a table with one edge pointed up I put on some leather gloves. Then, laying the ribbon at a 90° angle to the file I use my thumb to press the ribbon down hard against the points. Pulling the ribbon with one hand while applying pressure with my thumb on the other hand causes the teeth of the file to cut multiple grooves the length of the ribbon. Then, turning the ribbon over I repeat the operation and in no time, the ribbon is ready to use.

I might add, the grooves in the wood should be stabbed into the wood using a very narrow tool like a broken hack saw blade with the end sharpened.
Hold the blade so it is stabbing straight down into the wood.
This will cut the wood grain and bend it slightly downward towards the bottom of the cut.
When the grooved ribbon is lightly tapped into the trench, it also drives the grain of the wood downward.
Then, when the area is wetted with water, the wood grains will try to go back to their original shape and end up pressing themselves into the ribbon grooves to lock the ribbon in place.

 

[pooch156]

Rather than using a sharp chisel or knife, I use a fine toothed triangular file to form the grooves in the sides of the silver or brass ribbon.

To do this, with the file laying flat on a table with one edge pointed up I put on some leather gloves. Then, laying the ribbon at a 90° angle to the file I use my thumb to press the ribbon down hard against the points. Pulling the ribbon with one hand while applying pressure with my thumb on the other hand causes the teeth of the file to cut multiple grooves the length of the ribbon. Then, turning the ribbon over I repeat the operation and in no time, the ribbon is ready to use.

I might add, the grooves in the wood should be stabbed into the wood using a very narrow tool like a broken hack saw blade with the end sharpened.
Hold the blade so it is stabbing straight down into the wood.
This will cut the wood grain and bend it slightly downward towards the bottom of the cut.
When the grooved ribbon is lightly tapped into the trench, it also drives the grain of the wood downward.
Then, when the area is wetted with water, the wood grains will try to go back to their original shape and end up pressing themselves into the ribbon grooves to lock the ribbon in place.

Good info. Thank you!