Simplyfying my rig

[pharmvet]

Im new to flinters and all the acountrements (about 1 year) and recently have been doing some thinking about how to simplify my loading procedures and decreasing the gadgets in my hunting bag. Here are some thoughts. Any additions or criticisms welcome.

1) I presently use 2F as my main charge and 4F for priming. I have found that 4F really gums up in humid conditions. Some here have advocated using 3F as the main and prime charge. I like this idea as it would necessitate the carrying of 1 type of powder.

a) Are there any disadvantages to using 3F as both the main and prime charge.

b) What would be late mid late 1700 period correct for applying priming powder into the pan. ( I presently use a really neat spring loaded gadget that I suspect is not very PC)

2) I would like to use the same powder measure (hollowed antler or brass clinder) to measure both the main charge and my shot charge. I might have to mark several different placed for varying amounts.

3) I currently use pre cut / pre lubed (I cut them and lube them ) square patches. To keep my whole bag from becoming greasy I have found it necessary to keep them in a tin. this of course must be opened (with greasy hands) to get the patch out. I think I will start using a strip of dry patch material, soak the end with saliva, and then cut it at the muzzle after starting the ball. This way I wont need to carry lube (always have spit) and my bag wont get greasy. Also, I could use the strips of patch material to wipe my flint, frizzen and pan if necessary.

a) does saliva soaked patch ever dampen a main charge enough to "kill" it.

3) I read a post previously here where someone was using a butcher type knife witha wood handle as a patch knife. He used the handle to start the ball and the blade to cut the patch strip. I like this idea.

4) I have recently switched from using .600 round balls to .595 and have found loading much more enjoyable.

5) would bullet boards have been used with smoothbores?

Any recommendations, suggestions, tips welcome. I am specifically looking for PC simplification of my outfit (loading and shooting)

 

[musketman]

Some here have advocated using 3F as the main and prime charge. I like this idea as it would necessitate the carrying of 1 type of powder.
a) Are there any disadvantages to using 3F as both the main and prime charge.

The only one I can see is in large bore muskets the FFFg load will burn through patches easier than the FFg, but this can be corrected by also using an over-powder card...

b) What would be late mid late 1700 period correct for applying priming powder into the pan. ( I presently use a really neat spring loaded gadget that I suspect is not very PC)

Unplug the powder horn, open the frizzen and dribble some powder in it, you may overflow a few times it until you get the hang of it...

2) I would like to use the same powder measure (hollowed antler or brass clinder) to measure both the main charge and my shot charge. I might have to mark several different placed for varying amounts.

Use the same measurer for both, equal parts of shot and powder are fine and work great...

3) I currently use pre cut / pre lubed (I cut them and lube them ) square patches. To keep my whole bag from becoming greasy I have found it necessary to keep them in a tin. this of course must be opened (with greasy hands) to get the patch out. I think I will start using a strip of dry patch material, soak the end with saliva, and then cut it at the muzzle after starting the ball. This way I wont need to carry lube (always have spit) and my bag wont get greasy. Also, I could use the strips of patch material to wipe my flint, frizzen and pan if necessary.

Many people that cut at the muzzle tie one end of the patching material to their shooting bag strap, however, when hunting or shooting in the woods the strip can pick up thorns and prickers, look before putting it in your mouth...

a) does saliva soaked patch ever dampen a main charge enough to "kill" it.

I guess it would if you really wet it, liquid lubes like moose milk will leech into the powder, so I suspect saliva would as well, saliva will also dry out over time and rust your bore...

5) would bullet boards have been used with smoothbores?

Sure, here is a chart to help you determin the size needed...

 

[No Deer]

Musketman answered you very thoroughly. The only think I would add is if you are hunting, I would suggest that you not use a spit patch. They will dry out if in the barrel too long, would then smoulder when fired and would be a concern for starting a fire. I use spit patch when target shooting, but prelube them when hunting. When hunting I use a loading block, with the patch prelubed. I carry as many as I figure I need for the day, and then a few extra. Usually no more than 10. These don't take up a lot of room and will keep the greasy patches off of everything in your pouch.

 

[AZ-Robert]

I currently use pre cut / pre lubed (I cut them and lube them ) square patches. To keep my whole bag from becoming greasy I have found it necessary to keep them in a tin. this of course must be opened (with greasy hands) to get the patch out.

My bag has a flat pocket sewn to the back (inside the bag). I keep the pre-lubed patches here, confining the mess and making them easy to find and pull out one at a time.

 

[pathfinderifh]

I too have a small "pocket" in my pouch and I lined it with the stuff you dip tool handles in[like pliers and such]in black.Not PC but it's in MY pouch and whats in there is MY business! Keeps everything from getting gooey :nono:

Pathfinder

 

[Mike Moore]

If you want to really keep it simple- hang a loading block and vent prick from your horn. If you don't need a short starter, you have everything you need for a few shots (powder, prelubed patches, balls, something to clean out your touch hole) just use fff in the barrel and prime with it too. This is what I do in shoots when they are timed or I have to run to the different targets.
mike.