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Sinew Thread
- Thread starter paco97
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Paco97 I made lots, always have some around.I like the strip off of deer tenderloin. Real sharp knife, insert under strip of sinew, skin it off as close as you can, try not to get much meat with it. After it is off, scrape off any meat that is on it, hang up to dry. When you want to use it just tear some strands off, wet it and it is ready to use. It is tough. You can twist the strands together to make thread.If you sew a patch on a moccasin, the patch will out before the sinew. If scraped good will keep long time. Dilly
onefeather
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he explained it good.but you could use artificail.not period correct but real sinew is :v
I have used artificial sinew for a variety of sewing jobs and I have also bought some I ply which sews just like a good linen thread.I used it to make some buckskin leggings. It's available from Wandering Bull in Mass.
Tom Patton
Tom Patton
onefeather
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i like to use artificial sinew as well.but i hear alot of people dont like it :shake: i like to sew with it more cause it gets tighter stitches and you can burn the ends so they dont come undone :grin:
pathfinderifh
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I've found that after a number of years of hard use the artificial stuff gets kina fuzzy,unravels and comes loose. No disrespect One Feather,some of the things I've made and used are older than you.You ask good questions and I think you'll go far in this lifestyle. :hatsoff: Back on track,I like linen thread thats been waxed with bee's wax. Over 30 years on my favorite pouch and no sign of wear. :grin: Pathfinder
onefeather
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yep all the stuff i make that are white mans gear lol is made with linen thread now.it does hold up better then artifiacial sinew though :winking:
We would prefer to be called the People of the Fairest Complexion from now until we change our minds. :winking:
[/quote]
We would prefer to be called the People of the Fairest Complexion from now until we change our minds. :winking: [/quote]
Sir: could that be perchance the same as one having an "ashen countenance" or perhaps a "deathly pallor" brought on by encountering a fierce Sauvage?
Tom Patton
:v
We would prefer to be called the People of the Fairest Complexion from now until we change our minds. :winking: [/quote]
Sir: could that be perchance the same as one having an "ashen countenance" or perhaps a "deathly pallor" brought on by encountering a fierce Sauvage?
Tom Patton
:v
I like the linen thread also. it depends on what I'm sewing.The main criticism of artificial sinew has been that it's tougher than the leather and can cause the leather to rip after a time.I like the 1 ply for buttons,buckskin leggings and the like because it sews like carpet thread.It all depends what you're sewing and the look to be achieved.
Tom Patton
Tom Patton
On the sinew-
Boil the tendon to remove oils and the natural enzimes and dry (do not add any salt or other preservatives), smack it with a roundish faced hammer to seperate the strands and peel.
Dried tendons (sinew stock) can be purchased in elk, deer, cow, bison, and a variety of other critters.
Real sinew is much different to work with than the artificial. If used damp to sew or wrap it'll harden up like a stiff wire (sometimes this is good depending on use). If you soften using a Veg. or mineral oil it'll stay soft and pliable but, a occasional oiling (like saddle soap on leather is a nice idea).
Used lots of this on "facing" bows with Knox's gelatin or hide glue. Gets hard enough to need a file to work the edges in a bow limb.
If you want a supplier PM me.
PS, after you boil it, work it over a wood railing or something like that. It helps to wring some water out, stretches for a finer / longer thread, and helps to get it used to bending (doesn't get as stiff and crackly)
And by dry, I don't mean really bone dry, nore like dried like a chunk of nylon (not brittle). Cold drying is much better than hot drying (more uniformed).
Boil the tendon to remove oils and the natural enzimes and dry (do not add any salt or other preservatives), smack it with a roundish faced hammer to seperate the strands and peel.
Dried tendons (sinew stock) can be purchased in elk, deer, cow, bison, and a variety of other critters.
Real sinew is much different to work with than the artificial. If used damp to sew or wrap it'll harden up like a stiff wire (sometimes this is good depending on use). If you soften using a Veg. or mineral oil it'll stay soft and pliable but, a occasional oiling (like saddle soap on leather is a nice idea).
Used lots of this on "facing" bows with Knox's gelatin or hide glue. Gets hard enough to need a file to work the edges in a bow limb.
If you want a supplier PM me.
PS, after you boil it, work it over a wood railing or something like that. It helps to wring some water out, stretches for a finer / longer thread, and helps to get it used to bending (doesn't get as stiff and crackly)
And by dry, I don't mean really bone dry, nore like dried like a chunk of nylon (not brittle). Cold drying is much better than hot drying (more uniformed).
m-man, riarcher pretty much covered that. i like to sit around and chew mine to soften and seperate the fibers and to remove the sheath. when i am binding something, the combination of the sinew and rabbitskin glue(hide glue)form a transparant unit that is particularly strong, handsome and durable.
take care, daniel
take care, daniel
djnye said:
We were way off topic and I was redirecting, that's all... :grin:
Back to sinew, anyone use a rock to pound the sinew into sepperate fibers?
Also, which game animal gives the longest sinew fibers?
I'm guessing moose...
Is leg sinew better than back sinew?
onefeather
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i hear back is better i think.leg seems like the muscles would work more and be stronger so i dont know.but i think i read that it was back.im not sure i will have to check my reading again :grin: sorry for the miss directing of this post :redface: :v
I have only used real sinew a couple of times but sometimes one tyro can better talk to another tyro so here it goes... I was told to soak the sinew to remove the "glue" and then separate it into strands. I pounded with a rock as instructed. What I got was a twisted mess of strands. A few weeks back we had a similar discussion on the forum and I was told to just strip it off dry, I tried that and at least for me, it was a lot easier. These strands aren't perfect, like store bought thread. They may taper a bit or split.
How did I use it?? Well I kept one end dry(about 1") and moisted the rest of the strand enough to make it pliable. I then used a whip stitch. This is the stitch where you go through the hole, wrap the thread around the edge and then go in the next hole. The strands may only be 10" long. When you begin stitching, put about an inch along the seam and then start running the thread through the holes, wrapping it over the 1" to lock it in place. I make holes with an awl and forget about a needle since I keep the end of the sinew dry. When you have about 1" of thread left you lay that down along the seam. Take a new thread and start all over but this time you will wrap over 1" of the new thread(just like with the first piece) and also the remaining one inch of the first thread. This locks everything in place. Even though you are only using short 10" pieces the sewing goes pretty fast.
Now that's some beginners advice. So far everything has held up well so I am satisfied but perhaps there are others that can get you better tips.
How did I use it?? Well I kept one end dry(about 1") and moisted the rest of the strand enough to make it pliable. I then used a whip stitch. This is the stitch where you go through the hole, wrap the thread around the edge and then go in the next hole. The strands may only be 10" long. When you begin stitching, put about an inch along the seam and then start running the thread through the holes, wrapping it over the 1" to lock it in place. I make holes with an awl and forget about a needle since I keep the end of the sinew dry. When you have about 1" of thread left you lay that down along the seam. Take a new thread and start all over but this time you will wrap over 1" of the new thread(just like with the first piece) and also the remaining one inch of the first thread. This locks everything in place. Even though you are only using short 10" pieces the sewing goes pretty fast.
Now that's some beginners advice. So far everything has held up well so I am satisfied but perhaps there are others that can get you better tips.
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Sinew is pretty much sinew. The back strap sinew is better because it is longer, and there is more of it.
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Musketman - simple answer is no. Besides using the shorter lengths helps prevent total seam breakage/tear out.
Sinew Tutorial
IME the best sinew is buffalo - some suppliers carry it.
Sinew Tutorial
IME the best sinew is buffalo - some suppliers carry it.
IMO you don't need to splice. I was angst the first time I tried real sinew but feeding in new pieces and over lapping the ends is easy and the stitching goes almost as fast as waxed thread or fake sinew. Let me put it this way, I like my gear a lot more knowing it is sewn with real sinew and now that I took the plunge and used it I am not going back to the fake stuff. Go ahead and give it a go.
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