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Sitting fox fowlers

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howdydoit

45 Cal.
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What do you guys thing of these kits and what era would they represent if any/

Im looking for something Pre Rev, sort of coming into my own at about 1774-1777.
Link With a Virgina stock prolly 28 gauge.

Or
Link

Link
 
:hatsoff: My choice is the Barn Gun (20ga). The Buck and Ball is my #2 choice followed by the Colonial Fowler. My reasoning for the Barn Gun is that it matches my persona as a poor farm boy from western Virginia. As a side note, I like a lot of the sitting fox kits. That Blanket Gun really intrigues me as well as the Blunderbuss.

Jac S. Muell
 
Of the three my pick would be the Penn smooth rifle. I have couple doz rifles and only smooth bores I have are a couple of pistols. No small game here except squirrels and I use .32 on them. Dilly
 
Your first choice and your last choice appear to have barrels made of tubing. They are also incredibly thin at the breech and straight for their entire length. Not only will the architecture be ruined with a barrel this slim, it will handle like a fence post. Generally, you get what you pay for.
A good lock costs $125 and a good barrel $200. Toss in a fair piece of wood that is hard enough to inlet parts into will go another $100. I wouldn't spend any less on these three items as they are the heart of the gun.
 
Just to show that everything is a personal choice, I like the Colonial Fowler. In fact, that's the one I told my wife I want for my birthday next year. I haven't heard anything bad about Sitting Fox and they offer a nice gun that a working man on a budget can afford. Just my 2 cents.
 
I got a fowler from Sitting Fox. The barrel is solid -- from Jack Garner of TVM. Octagonal to round. Definitely not thin. Lots of fun to shoot too.
 
Oldnamvet,

Could you give the bore size, the measurement from flat to flat at the breech of your barrel and the measurement from flat to flat at the octagon to round transition?

thanks
James
 
I have bought a number of Fowler kits using the DOM tubing.
It is safe and reasonably priced.
If you ever want to re-sell the firearm, you will pay a penalty for using it.
The Colerain or other custom smooth bore barrels are more expensive up front, but will greatly increase the re-sale value.
I will not build another Fowler with it.
Also, The barrel effects to architecture of the weapon. The lack of flair at the breech, makes it look "like a plank" :hmm: well said. JM2C'S
 
oldarmy said:
If you ever want to re-sell the firearm, you will pay a penalty for using it ...
custom smooth bore barrels are more expensive up front, but will greatly increase the re-sale value.

oldarmy said:
Also, The barrel effects to architecture of the weapon. The lack of flair at the breech, makes it look "like a plank" :hmm: well said.

As a current 1st-time builder of a Sitting Fox kit, I can't argue with those 2 points. But as also stated, as a workin' man on a budget, I felt I did 'OK' for a decent kit for my 1st build attempt. Sure, I could have saved up for a Chambers or other, but Ray treated me right.

Now that I know MORE now than when I did when I bought it ... changing the barrel to one that had the taper from the breech to the wedding band transition is the only thing I'd change. I don't have the experience with kits many of you do, but guys at my range who have built plenty of TOW or Chambers kits and who have custom fowlers and swamped rifles by J. Allen or D. Price have reviewed my kit ... and were impressed for the price point I paid (which was what I could afford).
 
Any of those would be a step above what is offered by production guns, I personaly don't care for an oct to round barrel with no taper in the oct part to me it throws the look/feel outa whack, but it is a cost cutting feature which allows many to get a bit closer to the world of PC/HC guns, as for the particular builder, I have never shot or seen any of his guns up close, I have read his promo writeups that are with the various gun styles and some are so far from being even close from a historical standpoint that it suggests little knowledge or interest on the builder part about the accurate history of the guns,(see Tulle description from Sitting Fox) when I see this with any builder/supplier they go to the bottom of my list of people/places I care to deal with, but such things are not an issue to many and there is a niche for these "kinda PC offerings" they will likely be accepted in most all events and provide the shooter with years of service.
 
Could you give the bore size, the measurement from flat to flat at the breech of your barrel and the measurement from flat to flat at the octagon to round transition?

It is 62 cal and measures 1.032 across at the breech and is the same 12" along when it goes to round. The round at the transition is .969 and ends up at .815 at the muzzle.
 
Oldnamvet,
Thanks for getting those measurements. It's been a while since I handled one of those barrels.
I assume the 1.032 measurement continues to the wedding band transition like the others have mentioned?
 
I hope I didn't come off as a "snob".
Ray's prices are very reasonable. The parts themselves are of good quality.
You can save yourself allot of money, if you are willing and able to do more of the work yourself.
Just have the stock in-letted for the barrel and ramrod.Then rough shaped..No lock in-letting, no dovetails cut, no trigger semi-in-letted.
Buy the sand-casted furniture..It costs less and is better..IMHO
You would be better off buying a slightly less expensive piece of wood.
By doing these things yourself,and not getting the best wood. You should be able to upgrade to a better smooth bore barrel.
I think the difference between the DOM and a Colerain is only $100.
It might be a little more, but you will be much happier with it.
I can only speak from personal experience.
It will look better and have a much higher re-sale value.
 
oldarmy said:
I hope I didn't come off as a "snob".
Not to me you didn't! In fact, I appreciate the info you and known builders, like Mike Brooks, contributed to this post. To me, that PRESERVES the archives and may help someone else considering such a kit.

Good info gentlemen - thank you :thumbsup: !
 
I built the colonial fowler this summer. Best handling gun I've owned in a long time. I did replace the tang "wood" screw with a thru bolt going into the trigger plate. If you look at Flintlock Fowlers by Grinslade you'll see this gun doesn't resemble any fowler in it IMHO. The kit represents good value for the first time builder.
 
I want to thank everyone who posted here.

Im starting to realize that getting period correct or Historicaly correct is nigh impossible. Well maybe not impossible but way more expencive then my pocketbook will allow. I guess ill just have to pick something i like and run with it.
 
If I may offer some advice, be patient and get a first hand look at what you want, before you buy anything. Getting the gun of your dreams, only to be disgusted with it, when it arrives, really leaves a bad taste in your mouth. Not to mention the loss of shipping costs your are sure to eat. It happened to me, its happened to others on this site, dont let it happen to you. :surrender:
 
howdydoit said:
I want to thank everyone who posted here.

Im starting to realize that getting period correct or Historicaly correct is nigh impossible. Well maybe not impossible but way more expencive then my pocketbook will allow. I guess ill just have to pick something i like and run with it.

What is your price range? It might be possible to find a used gun on one of the auction sites or at Track. A simple gun with a quality barrel and lock and a plain stock with proper grain through the wrist and lock area should be doable for a reasonable price. You might talk to Roy Stroh right here on this forum. Don't get discouraged--it is possible to get a fine rifle--you don't have to settle for something you don't really want.
 
right now id say im setting on about 400.00, hopeing to save some more soon. I know its not much but its a start. :cursing:
 
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