Small Caliber Short Starter
- Thread starter Bassdog1
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
I made my own short starters by attaching an appropriate jag to a steel rod and an old time door knob to the steel rod.
The steel and the knob add all the weight you might want and the width of the door knob spreads the weight so you don't hurt your hand and it also gives your elbow a bit of a break.
Dutch
The steel and the knob add all the weight you might want and the width of the door knob spreads the weight so you don't hurt your hand and it also gives your elbow a bit of a break.
Dutch
That's bloody brilliant!
Im thinking I'm running over to my local warehouse improvement store in a bit..., so while there I think I will find a large drawer-pull knob..., and remove the male screw and then attach a .40 cleaning jag for my .40 rifle as a short starter. (Some of the ranges that I go to ask you to use a short starter). Might do a metal knob OR might go with a broader wooden one, as I don't need too much weight or too much of a start.
LD
A lot of vendors sell short starters. Just go down the list of the usual ones.
It will be far easier and cheaper to go to the big box or local hardware store to buy a reasonably straight trained dowel rod (the most important part of the purchase) of 1/4" or 5/16" diameter. Then go to the plumbing section and buy a copper compression ferrule to fit the dowel rod for a bore guide. A drawer pull can be drilled to fit the dowel and pinned.
The rounded surface of the drawer pull can be used to start the ball and patch down the bore.
You will have made your starter to fit your needs.
It will be far easier and cheaper to go to the big box or local hardware store to buy a reasonably straight trained dowel rod (the most important part of the purchase) of 1/4" or 5/16" diameter. Then go to the plumbing section and buy a copper compression ferrule to fit the dowel rod for a bore guide. A drawer pull can be drilled to fit the dowel and pinned.
The rounded surface of the drawer pull can be used to start the ball and patch down the bore.
You will have made your starter to fit your needs.
A Track of the Wolf pistol loading rod will work fine.
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/102/1
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/102/1
Last edited by a moderator:
rodwha
58 Cal.
Ohio Ramrod here on this forum made mine. I rather like it a lot. I asked him to include a shallow 1/2” drilled hole in the antler to use as a palm saver. His prices on various items have been more than fair I believe. And I prefer to support the little guy when I can.
I usually buy a RR for MLs with the cheap wooden RR for a replacement. I get it long and cut off excess. The excess often becomes a short starter.
DOUBLEDEUCE 1
69 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2008
- Messages
- 4,167
- Reaction score
- 880
I made a short starter using a piece of Delrin rod. I turned down the end to fit a brass tip that is threaded for cleaning equipment. The brass is glued and pinned to the rod. The rod fits into a piece of turned maple for the palm saver. The maple has a short stub of brass mounted in the side to seat the ball. Because of the Delrin, there is no need for a bore guide.
I bought the Delrin at TAP Plastics.
I bought the Delrin at TAP Plastics.
When talking about Delrin, I'm sure glad to see you pinned that rod. I used to make and sell Delrin rods and still make my own from it. But, I have never found a glue that will stick to it. If there is one I would like to know what it is.
DOUBLEDEUCE 1
69 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2008
- Messages
- 4,167
- Reaction score
- 880
I would rough up the end of the Delrin with some shallow grooves. Then I would rough up the inside of the brass tip. Two part epoxy was the glue. The pin is insurance for me. The tip has never come loose.
I turned my own brass tip. I figured the epoxy would sort of act like threads on a screw, and fill in the grooves and roughened surfaces and hold it all together. Just lucky I guess. :idunno:
I turned my own brass tip. I figured the epoxy would sort of act like threads on a screw, and fill in the grooves and roughened surfaces and hold it all together. Just lucky I guess. :idunno:
This is what I use, brass short starter.
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/102/1/ST-5?PageSize=100
William Alexander
William Alexander
Last edited by a moderator:
hanshi
Cannon
This is only a few of the ones I've made for .40 & up and .40 & .36. The ones for .32 are smaller.
Palm saver and a couple more. All mine are crude but functional.
Palm saver and a couple more. All mine are crude but functional.
Been there, tried that. To date a glue that holds Delrin is yet undiscovered. For the record, I have not tried using a solvent, like Acetone, for 'welding' Delrin to Delrin. No reason to as I am usually trying to fasten it to another material.
- Joined
- May 6, 2014
- Messages
- 17,489
- Reaction score
- 16,602
Rifleman1776 said:
I have never tried the Loctite (new supplier) or Henkel (Old Supplier) Hysol Epoxi Patch Kit 1C (White) or 11C (Black), but it may work. I've been using it since the early 1970's to glue fiberglass handguards to steel hand guard bands, where it has to have high strength and not affected by some rather high temperatures. It bonds and holds amazingly well, when the surfaces of the materials to be glued are prepped properly. (I use Acetone to clean the surfaces after I rough them up and before I glue them together.)
The only problem is when I order these kits, I have to order five or six to spread out the Hazmat Charge. However, I'm not sure the following link or some sellers on EBay actually charge the Hazmat charge. The following site only sells the 1C and not the 11C, but it is by far the best price I know of. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/loctiteHysol.php
I would suggest contacting Loctite to see if they would recommend these Hysol Epoxi Patch Kits or some other adhesive for Delrin. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/contact-us.shtml
Gus
Last edited by a moderator:
- Joined
- May 6, 2014
- Messages
- 17,489
- Reaction score
- 16,602
P.S. For Rifleman1776 and others who may wish to use Delrin, Brass or other materials for the longer rods in their short starters, but especially Delrin or other fiberglass or plastic rods....
Since Delrin and some other plastics/fiberglass rods are so slippery, you may try to prepare the end of the rod that is glued inside the hole in the Ball/Body of the Short Starter, in the following manner, to get them to stay in the Ball/Body of the Short Starter.
On the end of the rod that goes into the hole in the Ball/Body of the short starter, file a groove around the diameter of the rod, but make sure it is close enough to the end where it will go completely inside the hole in the Ball/Body. The Groove should form a reverse cone taper from the very end of the rod, with the very end having the regular full size diameter. IOW, the end of the rod that goes into the hole will look something like the top half of an Hour Glass. I would also use a Dremel Tool with a Carbide Burr/Small Ball cutter to cut a groove inside the hole in the Ball/Body of the short starter.
When you go to glue the rod to the Ball/Body, you will need to use a small spatula or old butter knife to fill the groove in the Ball/Body with epoxy as well as filling the groove in the end of the rod with epoxy. That way, the epoxy holds the end of the Delrin or other slippery rod by Epoxy glued to the Epoxy. Even if the Delrin rod slips or turns around, it can't come out of the Ball/Body of the Short Starter because the Epoxy filled Grooves will hold it in the Ball/Body of the Short Starter.
Gus
Since Delrin and some other plastics/fiberglass rods are so slippery, you may try to prepare the end of the rod that is glued inside the hole in the Ball/Body of the Short Starter, in the following manner, to get them to stay in the Ball/Body of the Short Starter.
On the end of the rod that goes into the hole in the Ball/Body of the short starter, file a groove around the diameter of the rod, but make sure it is close enough to the end where it will go completely inside the hole in the Ball/Body. The Groove should form a reverse cone taper from the very end of the rod, with the very end having the regular full size diameter. IOW, the end of the rod that goes into the hole will look something like the top half of an Hour Glass. I would also use a Dremel Tool with a Carbide Burr/Small Ball cutter to cut a groove inside the hole in the Ball/Body of the short starter.
When you go to glue the rod to the Ball/Body, you will need to use a small spatula or old butter knife to fill the groove in the Ball/Body with epoxy as well as filling the groove in the end of the rod with epoxy. That way, the epoxy holds the end of the Delrin or other slippery rod by Epoxy glued to the Epoxy. Even if the Delrin rod slips or turns around, it can't come out of the Ball/Body of the Short Starter because the Epoxy filled Grooves will hold it in the Ball/Body of the Short Starter.
Gus
Thanks for the tip. When I use a Delrin rod I attach the handle to something hard using a tap and die. For range rods I tap into the side and end of the handle to make for easier transport. For short starter handles I'll tap in then also with brazing rod. I like Delrin for non-hc rods but it is a 'bleep' to glue.
Similar threads
