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smoothbore barrel makes

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joeboleo1

40 Cal.
Joined
Sep 4, 2005
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Going to get my first smoothbore, planning on 62 cal. Having only shot rifles I know we all have our favorite barrel makes. How about a smoothbore? Is there a big difference in the accuracy you will acheive in a smoothie in relation to brand name of barrel? I know several makers of smoothbores use their own barrels. Appreciate any thoughts on this before deciding on a barrel --- preferably oct/rnd, 42"
 
Joe, what type of smoothbore are you thinking of building? If a fowler, you want the barrel to be light, and some makers make them too heavy. Almost heavy enough to be rifle barrels. Guys like like John Getz and Ed Rayl will make a barrel to the proper profile for a fowler. And they can give you the length you need-- a nice fowler wants a longer barrel--say 44 to 48 inches.
In 20 gauge, these fowlers don't need to weigh much over 7 to 7 1/2 pounds. They are a delight to use and own.
 
I was thinking more along the lines of a "Colonial" type smoothbore, for want of a better description. Kind of a generic all purpose gun for PRB as well as occassional shot. I will use it for roundball, plate shooting and such for the most part. I guess probably not as light and graceful as a true fowler.
 
Have you checked out Jim Chamber's parts sets? Quality is top shelf and he has a couple that ought to work for you.
 
I'll second that on Jim Chambers kits. I have a smooth rifle in 28ga and it is a keeper. I am drooling over his English Fowler/Officer's Fusil kit. It will need some carving and fine engraving to be HC, but Mark Wheland can do that :hatsoff:
 
Smoothbore barrels are not that tricky to make, enough so that one maker is better than another. A good friend of mine made one with a 20 ga Colerain and it is a real fine shooter with both ball and shot.
 
Joe: I had a fowler made for me as a surprise present. I has a 30 inch barrel, which many here would call very short. I don't. I shoot a 30 inch barrel on my modern shotguns, including the break open actions, and the length works for me.

Because I am Left Handed, The lock is put on the wrong side. That took care of the " PC " nonsense. The wrist is thicker than many, because I don't want to see a break occur there, much less any cracks, as seen so often on the more skinny, English style fowlers. I have big hands, so the thicker wrist works for me. The lock is a siler, and the trigger guard, buttplate, and pipes are English styled. The barrel is half round half octagon, with enough metal in the muzzle to allow jug choking if I choose to have that done. The gun weights about 7 lbs. The butt was left as wide as the cast buttplate would allow, to spread any recoil over a wider area of my shoulder. The gun fits.

If I made the gun for myself, I would probably have asked for a 36 " barrel, but I like the 30 " barrel just fine. For a 20 gauge, the gun swings well, but has enough weight to hold steady for aimed shots. I do have a rear sight on the gun, and that makes a difference, but not in wing shooting. I am used to holding a 6 o'clock sight on targets and I find no problem hitting birds or clay targets.

I think you have received some fine suggestions for kits to consider. The Siler fowler kit is terrific, and others are also offering fine kits. But, ultimately, this is a gun for you, and not something you are making to sell. Make the gun for you, and how you hunt, and shoot.
 
Gentlemwn, thank you for the replies and input. Greatly appreciated. I will check the Chambers site tonight. Have heard lots of good things. Rich, thanks for the info on the Colerain. That is one thing I was wondering --- if it made that much difference for the average guy getting brand A barrel over brand B. Didn't think it would make as much difference as a rifle. Thank you all.
 
Rich, what I meant was that some smooth bore barrels are made way too heavy, especially at the muzzle. I ordered a 20 bore barrel at the same time that a friend ordered a 28 gauge, and both barrels had the same outside dimensions. This made for an heavy little fowler and a chunky looking muzzle. Even the 20 gauge was heavier than needed. A little extra money will often get you a nicer and lighter barrel.
 
When your getting your barrel tell the guy makeing it what you are going to use it for, I did this with Long Hammock one for ball and one for shot "tight" and they do shoot a bunch different. (the ball barrel isnt so hot on shot ect) Fred :hatsoff: Both of mine are 30" and real fun to shoot.
 
No doubt the profile makes a big difference in weight and balance. Good point- modern barrel makers usually have several profiles and will offer different bores in one given profile- and the weight of the barrel and balance will vary a lot accordingly. In general it is hard to get modern smoothbore barrels made as thin at the muzzle as originals.
 
IMG_2530.jpg


Custom barrel from Ed Rayl

:thumbsup:
 
Ed's barrels are a bit harder that other barrel makers, sort of can go through a file cleaning them up, but I really like how thin he can get them at the muzzle.
 
Heavy walled barrels shoot PBR well. I prefer shot gun barrels to be quite light and thin at the muzzle.
 
If shooting mainly PRB at metal and paper targets during woodswalks, etc. (shooting shot just a once in a while deal) then should I be looking at more of a thicker walled barrel than a thinner shotgun type?
 
I have 3 Colerain smooth barrels (2-20 gauge X 42" and 1-12 gauge gauge X 32"). One of the 20 gauge barrels has a slight concentricity runout at the muzzle (maybe 0.010" max). The inside bore is well finished. The breach plugs fit well (0.000" to 0.015" gap to shoulder)- you can get it closer if you want. The outside finish on the round section is great and the oct. section needs draw-filing. Wall thickness is what I want for a PRB. I'm happy :applause:
 
joeboleo1 said:
If shooting mainly PRB at metal and paper targets during woodswalks, etc. (shooting shot just a once in a while deal) then should I be looking at more of a thicker walled barrel than a thinner shotgun type?

In my opinion, yes.
 

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