soft Turn screws?

[jrmflintlock]

I have several forged turn screws that I have purchased over the years and not a single one of them has the propper temper. Some are bent and some are broken. They work fine on bolts for a little while but then when I try to keep my flint tight, thats when they fail. :cursing:

Can anyone tell me how to harden them enough to tighten a flint down.

 

[LRB]

Make one from spring steel and give it a spring temper maybe?

 

[pargent]

Yes I have made quite a few for myself and as prises and for friends . This is how I make all of mine , I use keysteel in the size that is needed, it is square and available in lots of sizes ,comes in lengths app. 12''long. . The type I make are the question mark shape, heat and work one end to a tapered point, curl the end , form the circle curve then twist the straight shaft,cut off to the desired length and last flaten the blade. the quicker the part is made and the lest amount of heating will make it less brittle. File the blade to fit the screw (perefctly) , heat to cherry red and quench in light oil or water , I have not as yet had a complaint or a blade fail. Practice a few times to get it right . :thumbsup:

 

[MSW]

curious about that ... thanks for the post!

 

[LRB]

Key stock also comes in different steels. Do you know what type you used?

 

[pargent]

Not sure of the type of steel but the brand name is MAK-A-KEY a USA product .

 

[jrmflintlock]

Thanks!! I will mess with them and see what I can do!

I'll let you know how they come out!

 

[LRB]

Common key stock is 1018 cold rolled steel and cannot be hardened, other than by work hardening or case harening. I suspect Phil's success has more to do with his attention to fit and the shape of the blade. Key stock can be found in 1095 steel, but you would have to ask for it, pay more, and I doubt you would find it out side of a machinist/tool supply.

 

[Nifeman]

If you have access to a farm supply store you can ask for hay rake teeth. They only cost a couple of bucks and they are 1095...

 

[MikeyC]

JRM,
Common key stock is indeed 1018. Not hardenable.
How ever if you have the ability to make your own, here is an option.
Go to www.use-enco.com.
On page 803 are the "MAK-A-Key" materials. I'll use 1/4" square as an example. All lengths are 12" and they are sold in packs of 5.
So 1095 steel is $20.98, very hardenable. Quench in oil and temper.
They also have 1045 in mm sizes. 6mm square is close and is $15.85. Quench in water that has been salted. Some old timers say when a potato floats, you have enough salt. You still have to temper.
On page 772/773 is O1 tool steel. 1/4 sq is $15.96 for 1 18" section and $27.40 for 36". This is oil hardening. Harder to forge then the other two. Temper this one close to 500f, the other two around 425f. 20 minutes at heat should do it and let air cool.
Lots of info on the web for these three steels for hardening and forging.
I'm sure others will chime in about these 3 steels. I've been using O1 for 48 years so I'm very comfortable with it. Your mileage might vary and it might be taking a turn screw to an extreme.
Mike C.
Groveland, CA

 

[pargent]

I work in heavy industry so I purchased mine from our store . The keys we make out of the mak a key are for shaft couplings on very large motors ,pumps etc.

 

[LRB]

Do you file check after hardening? If a file will cut it, you really didn't harden it. If you can't file cut it, it is likely 1095, and probably needs to be tempered. Either way, if they do the job, that is what really counts.

 

[pargent]

Usualy I file and fit before hardening, but I do have files in my work tool box that will cut the blade after hardening if needed to as well as a disc on a bench grinder that will do the job as well. (diamond files, and the disc will shape almost any metal ) this kit is industrial gear and not available through hardware outlets. Judging form our work applications the steel must be of the better type,when touching up the hardened blade it is not easy to do but doable with the tools mentioned.I do find that on some turnscrews that if too much heat is used or too much time shaping, the steel can develop cracks length ways. I checked the key steel again and thereis no markings other than brand and size.

 

[Many Klatch]

I don't use a turnscrew to tighten my flints. I use what I call a tommy bar. Drill a hole through the top of the flint screw big enough to accept a smaller sized allen wrench. I cut off the angled end of an allen wrench and epoxy it into a piece of bone or horn. The tommy bar will tighten the flint down much better than a turnscrew. Sometimes I can get one or two whole turns with my tommy bar after having tightened up with a turnscrew.

Many Klatch