Solder clean up

[crockett]

This is a subject that doesn't get discussed much but has always been a problem for me. Whenever I do any soldering the flux tends to run out of the joint on to other areas and then after the job is finished I have lead adhered to unwanted areas and a big clean up job. Theoretically the flux isn't supposed to run unless you overheat the joint. I've been very careful about this, heating very slowly and touching the solder time to time until the joint is hot enough for the solder to flow. I use the non-lead solder that melts at 430 degrees. Still, the flux (plumber's flux) melts before the joint is hot enough to melt the low temp solder.
I've tried using a magic marker and also a Birchwood casey Bluing Pen to coat the surrounding areas on the idea that solder won't adhere but it just hasn't worked. I use a propane torch using propane gas.
In any event I think I need either a flux that won't run, or melts at a higher temperature, or (and) some sort of resist or material to paint on those surfaces that you don't want any solder.
Any help much appreciated on this one.

 

[LRB]

I have heard of using a pencil to coat in a stop zone. Brownells sells a talc stick to do the same. Anytime I solder, I just accept there will be some clean up afterwards. Flux pretty much has to run in order to wet and do its job. Sounds like maybe you're using too much solder for a joint, and possibly too much flux.

 

[crockett]

I might be using too much flux, I am really filling in the joint, I'll try just a film- maybe that will help.

 

[tallbear]

Just paint the area around the area that you are soldering with water based White-out.It stops the flux from flowing and keeps the solder from sticking and is easily washed off with water afterwards.I have done it when soldering a rib on a barrel and it made cleanup a snap afterwards.

Mitch

 

[Len Graves]

Rub the area you don't want solder on with a welders soapstone marker or as before mentioned a good soft lead pencil. This has worked for me many times. Good luck

 

[LRB]

That sounds like an excellent suggestion.

 

[tallbear]

Jerry Huddleston really deserves credit for the idea not me :grin: :grin:

 

[wulf]

Turn the part upside down.......

 

[skunkskinner]

Sounds like your using to much solder, same problem i have :hmm:

 

[crockett]

The local ACE Hardware has welders soapstone. I think that would be worth a try.
BTW, this is a guard being put on a knife. I have been doing this because it looks good, keeps the guard tight, and is a moisture barrier. I have also mixed up some pine resin (collected from a tree) with powdered charcoal and the stuff is jet black and hardens like steel. I'm pretty sure this resin/powdered charcoal was PC and used as a filler in tang holes, etc but I've never read about guards being soldered to blades. Just wondering if soldering guards is PC.
And for what it is worth, I started out with the tang the same thickness as the shoulder/ricasso area but there was always a sliver of light between guard and blade that the solder filled in. Now a days I thin the tang so there is a step, this eliminates any sliver of light and makes a better looking joint but I still solder because I feel it is a good way to afix a guard to a blade.

 

[LRB]

The common accepted belief is that guards were not soldered until into the 20th c. Possibly beginning with William Scagal, and carried into common use by Bo Randall. I have not heard of any from the 18th, or 19th c. that are/were. It would be a real rarity for a knife from these times to turn with an originally soldered guard. In fitting a guard as you do, and very much as I do, a little J&B Weld applied from the back side will do as well and not be obvious, or even seen at all. IMO, it is good to make a water tight seal in this area, but the guard will not come loose if tight fitted once the handle is set permantly in place. With a careful fit, there is no where for the guard to move so long as the grip is secure. So, as a blanket type answer to being PC, it would have to be no.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

This is how plumbers contain the flow of solder, bring the piece up to temp and then wipe away the excess flux re-heat and solder.

Also using a pencil to trace around the solder joint will eliminate overflow of the sweat joint.

 

[Many Klatch]

Sure wish I had known that pencil trick yesterday. I soldered a front sight on a Zouave musket and had to sand off the excess solder, smooth out the sanding marks and then reblue the barrel. I'll have to try that pencil thing out next time I solder anything.

Many Klatch

 

[tallbear]

FYI If you're useing silver solder from Brownells with their fluxes the pencil trick doesn't work very well.Whatever is in their fluxes flows right past pencil.If your using soft solder and regular plummers flux you may be able to get away with it.

Mitch

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

FYI If you're useing silver solder from Brownells with their fluxes the pencil trick doesn't work very well.Whatever is in their fluxes flows right past pencil.If your using soft solder and regular plummers flux you may be able to get away with it.

Mitch

Interesting, have not had that problem.

Last solder job that I did that was an issue was a trade gun front sight, traced around the sight real well, cleand the area on the barrel under the sight real well, tinned both pieces and soldered them up.

It came out good enough that I didn't harm the browinig so didn't need to re-finish. Also there was no visible solder line showing on or beyond the pencil.

I use Brownells Hi-Force 44 and corresponding flux, might have been the tinning process as I use a very fine film of solder for the process.

 

[tallbear]

Tim
I think you're right about tinning being the answer.If there is not too much solder it won't flow to places where it is'nt wanted.

Mitch